GOING BACK TO DYNO OIL FROM FULL SYNTHENTIC

[ice793]

Is it ok to switch back? Will it cause any problems? My reason for doing this is A money is tight and B ever since i switched to it it has been seeping past the rear cam seal. any feedback is appreciated thanks

[blowndodge]

Not sure if going back to Dino oil will help but there should be no issue lubrication wise.

[rickyboy]

Originally Posted by Blowndodge "Darksider"

Not sure if going back to Dino oil will help but there should be no issue lubrication wise.

You probably have more expertise on this than me Brad, but!!!
I heard that you shouldn't go back to reg. oil after using syn. oil. I'd check with a dealer or two and get some pro. opinions.

[macmac]

You have no idea what tight money is..... And I wouldn't switch back. It won't stop that seep...

One way and you may have to do this a few times in general to stop that leak is make a water IVORY Soap slurry and paint it in the seep. That will stop the seep till you power wash the bike or get in one hellova rain storm..

If you do go back to dino oils it won't harm the engine, but it will cut down on MPG's, reduce miles between oil and filters, as syn oils suspend contaminates better than dino oils do.

[ice793]

hmm havent heard of the ivory soap trick. i did silicone it but it came through i'll have to give that a try, i went with a semi synthetic for now hope this works for awhile thank guys for the feedback,if i put new cam seals in will that fix it or just do the same thing with?

[VulcanE]

Full synthetic oils have a very high detergent concentration, so when you switch to full synthetic oil on an older bike, and it starts cleaning the inside of the engine, (dissolving the old sludge) you may start getting oil leaks at places that the sludge had sealed up (when you read the disclaimer on synthetic oils, it says "will not cause oil leaks in an otherwise sound engine"). Then the only way to stop the leak is to replace the seal and/or gaskets, or maybe Mac's trick will work. Either way, just make sure the surfaces are as clean as possible.

[macmac]

If you go to the bother of dropping the engine to change the valve cover gaskets and the 1/2 plugs use gasket maker on the plugs as a sealant. The bad part will be lowering the engine enough to pull the valve covers. Kinda a lot of labor but it could be worth it.

The soap trick is just that a trick for a temp repair.

There is another trick. There is oil modifier that is viscous, called Lucas by name and for one or the other oil type. Get which ever you will use for which ever oil if you try this.

With the next oil change and filter add about 1 pint of Lucas oil modifier. This stuff is expensive but can work. I use it in a Dodge conversion van 1986 circa and it has an original real main oil seal that weeps, or did till I started using a qt of that stuff.

It simply bridges the gaps in the seals and stops the leaks.. Ivory Soap is far cheaper and a lesser fix.

By rights I should drop the tranny and change the seal, but I won't till Hell freezes over, which could be pretty soon

Naw it is likely I will never replace that seal unless there is a better reason..

The soap will cut the oil and push it back, and the oil will have a bad time getting past that temp fix... It won't harn a thing to try..

The thing is once oil weeps past something, then there is a need to clean it up with say laquer thinner, or some other chemical to get the oil away from the leak. Once oil passes a seal it will do so, wicking up oil forever.

I call this action 'drowning a seal' which happens a lot on the rear gears set seals we all have in common. This is a similar problem.

One way to see what I mean is go wax a old clunker paint job on something you don't care about... After you polish the wax up and things look good, use a cleaner and create a path. Simple green, laquer thinner or anything..

Then water the surface down and see what the water does...

[blowndodge]

That is exactly right VulcanE !! not the other way around... synthetics late in a motor's life usually leads to leaks....

[ice793]

thanks mac i might try lowering the engine in the future but for now i will try the soap trick its not enough oil to cause panic.

[macmac]

Well if it doesn't work the first time it is cheap enough to try a 2nd time. You only need a bar of ivory soap, 1 acid brush, and some water. (An acid brush is for soldering, and common for a few cents in any hardware store.)

[AlabamaNomadRider]

I believe the full syn is better in the long run. Just make sure you use motorcycle oil rather than anything made for just cars. There are supposed to be additives in the motorcyle oils. Wal-Mart sells Mobil 1 10W-40 Racing for $8.99 a quart. I know that isn't cheap but about as reasonable as you will find for a motorcycle. O'Reilly's sells oils for motorcycles also.

[sturmannderss]

I just installed Fuchs 10/40. It is a mineral oil based lubricant. I could tell a difference immediately. She seems to shift a lot smoother. I've got to check on the change interval, but I think I am going to use this product again. I live in Charlotte and they just opened a brand new Competition Accessories store in Rock Hill, SC(about 15 miles over border). They carry it.

[blowndodge]

I'm having a hard time pronouncing the name of that oil Sturm...!!!

[ndbigfish]

I switched to HDEO from synthetic. I had the top of the engine open and I didn't like the appearance; especially for an oil I was paying $11.99 a quart for. I noticed an immediate improvement in shifting on the HDEO. I thought I would see a mileage drop off, but it has remained similar. Used oil analysis seem to show that it holds up well to shearing in transmissions and clutches.

[metalman]

I use Rotella 15W-40 in my two Wings and the Nomad. This is a diesel rated non synthetic oil. No problems shifting. I change oil between 3000 and 4000 miles.