New Problem

[zoom45]

After my ordeal with the no start-no nuetral light early this week I now have a new problem. I was coming home from work at about 70mph in heavy traffic on the interstate and all of a sudden the bike shut off like if I had turned the key off. I got over to the emergency lane coasting and kept trying to crank it then it finally started and ran fine all the way home. The roads around here are very rough but it didn't give any sign of a problem after it restarted. Anyone have this problem before (2000 Nomad 1500)? It has got to be a wire problem. It's weird it only did it the one time. I hate intermittent problems. I wish it would just quit so I could troubleshoot it. :(" title="" border="0"/>
Zoom45

[cactusjack]

I know you wouldn't have bumped the kill switch, so we'll not even mention that.

Sidestand safety switch, maybe?

[zoom45]

I did check my side stand switch when it wouldn't crank on my Daytona trip. I checked it with a multi-meter and didn't get any reading up or down. From what the dealer said it only makes ground so I should have got a reading one way or the other. It didn't affect it starting the way it was. Without a reading though I probably should replace it. I just hate to try and fix problems not knowing for sure if that's the part it needs. My dealer would have to order a new switch so I'll have to wait till next week or order one online.
Zoom

[kenb]

There is a lot of threads that mention loose battery cables causing all sorts of mysterious stuff. Also dirty connections, etc. Other than the SS switch issue, any other recent electrical upgrades or replacements?

After a battery connection caused a PITA problem on my sandrail out in the boonies, I will always make sure the battery and connections are always clean and tight. On ALL my vehicles. The electronics in todays machines require "clean" battery voltages and grounds. Electricity always takes the path of least resistance to ground. So a dirty ground connection will cause big time issues.

[audiogooroo]

Check the connections at the ignition switch. Do you have a relocated or after market switch?
I'm betting that's where the problem lies, especially since it quit, then restarted and ran fine. I had a similar problem on my 99.

[zoom45]

Best I can tell the ignition switch is sealed and you can't get to the where the wires go into it. The plug must be hidden up in the frame somewhere. Mine is in the stock location. Battery teminals clean and tight.
Zoom

[glwilson]

Zoom;

From multiple posts from "times-past"; this problem was apparently addressed by looking at the wires to your ignition switch. Apparently, some of the early-year models had similar problems.

Unfortunately, I do not remember the exact solution; but as Audiogroove's post suggests -- you will find your problem related to the wiring leading to or from that location.

You may want to PM "macmac"; as I do remember him having a solution. He will respond if he has the time.

[dogdoc]

he's got time. All he is doing is sitting indoors, eating bon-bon's and shoveling snow. Right mac? :-)

[macmac]

In the other thread I had asked how the passing m=lamps were wired in case it wasn't loose wiring on a safety switch..


If there is no relay and the power to run passing lamps runs thru the ign switch you are frying the ign switch. But I don't know how these are wired on this bike.

If it were my bike I would be on it with a ice pick test light first checking in a go no go sort of way seeking a fast easy bad connection.

Then with a multimeter and another voltmeter.

First things first you should pull the battery cables right off on both ends of each and clean them and anything that holds them and where these bolt up.

All the time people say I checked and all that means is they used their eyes and looked. Looking isn't good enough.

Wire brushing each contacting part is what is good enough.

It could be a broken wire at a connector, and or a bad socket in the connector ...somewhere...

Running a volt meter all the time could be 'telling'.

I do have a book for the 2000 1500 models, but for that to do any good you would need one too.

SO how are these passing lamps wired?

[zoom45]

What are you calling passing lamps? All I have are the regular headlight and the two auxillary headlights. They are wired into the headlight bucket and can be turned off by a paddle switch. I thought those were from the factory like that. Road it today and did fine. All wires are clean and tight. As of today no problems and runs great.
Zoom45

[macmac]

Oh , so you bought this bike used.. Your "two auxillary headlights" are not stock off the show room floor. Some one forked out a couple hundred dollars to put those there, and with the bar they ride on.

That makes these a custom fit application and you really need to know if there is a relay. What the power sorces are to it, and there will be 2...

Unless of course there is no relay.

The bulbs can be 55 watts each, which is about 9.2 amps load, that is if I am correct and the bulbs are in fact 55 watts each.

If that load is combined with the head lamp, no matter you have a toggle switch, ALL the load will go thru the ignition and fry that switch. When a switch like that gets fried it literally melts apart, and the brass contacts fall out of their places and dead short.

The heating takes time to happen. But in time if these passing lamps, 'two auxillary headlights' are in fact wored direct, you will suffer a massive failure in th wiring..

I can't know this for sure, because i have never seen your bike first hand..

I am familar with Nomads and there is no way that bike came out of the crate with these two auxillary headlights!

[zoom45]

Thanks macmac!
I'll check the amps and see how it's wired. I don't think there's a relay for them so that may be my problem. I usually ride with all three lights on. I got the bike as is with 4,000 miles on it. It has right at 60,000 now and hasn't given any weird problems until now. So far it hasn't quit again.
Thanks,
Zoom45

[macmac]

While you are looking, look for distored colors on the wires maybe indicating heat, look for anything off color, on the wire as well as the insulation. Look at the gang connectors too for signs of warping. if you find any thing like the switches in the circuit would also be subject to suspicion.

If this turns out to be aux lamps AND the main lamp with no relay for the aux lamp, even if you don't find a problem adding both sets aux and main, you are over loading this 10 amp circuit with apx 18 amps draw.