Checking oil level

[ffron69]

I am trying to check the oil level and my garage is not level, I live on a big hill...if I wanted to check level front to rear of the 04 1500fi does anyone know where to put a level to be sure? This sucks not having a dipstick.

While I am on the subject when I change the oil how much goes back in to make it full? Thank you

[Cajunrider]

Find a way to get it level. Maybe across in your garage. Draining from the screen while on the sidestand and replacing the filter takes just shy of 3 quarts, if my memory serves me right. Somebody will correct me if I'm wrong.

[coot]

Originally Posted by Cajunrider

Find a way to get it level. Maybe across in your garage. Draining from the screen while on the sidestand and replacing the filter takes just shy of 3 quarts, if my memory serves me right. Somebody will correct me if I'm wrong.

Mine takes just over 3 quarts.

[cactusjack]

Get yourself an inspection mirror on a telescoping handle. Stick it in the pouch in the left saddlebag so it's handy. When you're at a gas station or parking lot (assuming it's somewhat level) use the mirror to check the oil level while sitting astride the bike and holding it upright.

[ringadingh]

I change my oil and filter together, and I put 3.3 litres back in the bike. I use an old measuring cup that my wife was done with and it makes adding the oil a quick accurate job.

[blowndodge]

changing filter and letting the oil change through the side screen overnight takes 3.5 quarts to fill.

[Top Cat]

So there you have it.
When replacing your oil put in anywhere from a little less than 3 qts to 3 1/2 qts.

[macmac]

The bike doesn't need dead level but it helps.. I sure never used a level.

Probably I am the smallest guy here, and to look as a check I grab the ft brake and hold it on and brace my knee into the crash bar. I can feel the left right tipping easy that way.

Fore and aft for you I see is the problem. Maybe build a ramp from a 2x10 level.

When I change the oil I dump in 3, and start the engine for a few moments, then shut down and check, adding to just better than halfway in the window, since oil will expand a lot hot.

[Cajunrider]

I also bring my level up to half of the glass. It does rise a little due to thermal expansion.

[ffron69]

Thank you, what is this screen and where is it? I never changed the oil (just got the bike end of last season), nor have I looked under the pan to see the drain plug...a picture would be great if anyone has one.

[fish]

A picture should be in the owners manual

[Cajunrider]

Originally Posted by ffron69

Thank you, what is this screen and where is it? I never changed the oil (just got the bike end of last season), nor have I looked under the pan to see the drain plug...a picture would be great if anyone has one.

Open the link and click on the oil pump-oil filter schematic and you will see part number 11012. This is located just behind the sidestand. Drain your warm oil with the bike leaning on the sidestand after removing the screen plug, washer, spring, and screen. Be sure to notice the orientation and put the open end of the screen inboard just as it came out. You will drain more oil out of the crankcase using this method rather than the drain plug in the center of the crankcase cover. Mine is an '07 but I'm pretty sure that all year models are virtually the same.


http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...fa-us/o/m10072

[Yellow Jacket]

Just don't put a whole lot of torque on the screen plug when reinstalling it. It's aluminum and you don't want to strip the threads. Also, you may want to replace the o-ring every 3rd or 4th oil change. This is much better than using the oil pan drain plug.

[trosco]

There's a sticker next to fill plug on your engine that tells you how much oil changes with and with out filter will take if you didn't get an owners manual. 3qts plus a "tad" (1/4 to 1/3 qt more?)after running is what mine always takes but I never change oil with out changing filter.

I have a Harbor Freight wheel chock (about $40 these days?) that I put my front wheel in to change the oil. I have the rear wheel on a 2x4 when I roll front into chock. That makes access easy to the drain and filter and allows accurate check of level when filling. The upright position also aids in draining the old oil.

I personally I don't recommend using the access cover over the spring/screen "pre-filter" to the oil pump as the normal oil change drain plug. It's made out of soft metal as is the engine case when it screws in and has just a couple threads. It's easy to cross thread and has a "O" ring that can be damaged. It's really for use before disassembly.

I did use that access point to clean the spring/screen at the 700 mile change (and found cotton gauze, metal shavings and a piece of plastic) then at 3,000 (it was clean) again at 12,000 and 24,000 (clean both times). But but normally I use the actual oil drain plug on bottom of motor. The engine case has cast in heavier metal at that point, which is along with the plug fine threaded and has a actual torque spec. It's much harder to cross thread and more durable. Not to mention easier to get in and out!?

Sounds like you might be new to this motorcycle maint. stuff? Take the safe route this time and use the standard drain plug.

[ffron69]

Thanks, not new to the motorcycle stuff just new to the bike and as for mechanical background I spend many years wrenching for Chrysler. I didn't get an owners manuel & don't have a shop manuel. I have managed to download for free a service manuel for every bike I ever had except this one & the thought of paying for one just bugs the crud outta me - as for the screen this is new to me and that is why I was asking. I appreciate the input & help!