Front Wheel Brng...

mr500 · 08-04-2017, 08:31 AM

Mine need to come out Ughh. What have you guys found is the best way to make that happen? The spacer makes it difficult to get any kind of drift pin along the edge of the bearing. How far can I move that spacer off to one side? I don't want to force it. Thinking of maybe using a blind bearing puller, but I thinking the spacer might be too close to the backside of the bearing. Those pullers need to grab on the backside of the bearing with the flared edges. Is there enough room there? I might be overthinking this so those of you have done it please share lol

**VARider07** · 08-04-2017, 06:41 PM

http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/s...+wheel+bearing

Read this post. It'll put you in the neighborhood. You can also do a search 'replace front wheel bearings', that's how I found this.

DragonLady58 · 08-04-2017, 07:15 PM

Pull your front wheel, use your air driver and take off your front disc's, (they're really easy to warp, but mark them first for position, and for the correct side).
Put wheel down on tabletop/bench/worksurface, supported on some soft wood, get yourself a long soft punch, make sure it has a sharp edge. Go past the 1/2 way point thru hub and spacer, feel for the edge. Once you get it, pop it good with a medium lead or deadblow hammer, once you get it going, it'll come on out.
Flip wheel over, repeat.
Install is reverse. I normally put 2 small V's in the spacer, both sides, 180 degrees from each other, in line. Its easy with the small V's, I have a long soft brass punch that engages in them perfectly.
Remember, use some soft wood between wheel and tabletop....

mr500 · 08-05-2017, 10:07 AM

I tried the bearing kit from the freight. Wont work until I can at least get some space between the spacer and the backside of the bearing. As per using the drift pin, I have banged on it and it wont budge. With the spacer, I do not have much room to hit it and with the bearing having that small radius on it makes the tool want to jump off. I may try and heat it up a little to see if I can get it started. If I can get it started, then the blind bearing tool should work.

2nd option finding a shop to get them out and Ill put in the new ones. Not many in my area that will work on Kawasaki. They only want to work on what they sell. But im going to try just the same. Might even call up the HD place in town lol

Ughh I wanna ride lol

DragonLady58 · 08-05-2017, 10:42 AM

Chancez are they mighg be the norigional bearings....if you have a mig, just put a plug in the bearing and drive it out.
If you don't havena mig, the drift, the hammer and a press....take it to a machine shop....about 30 bones....
About 15 minutes work for them....

mick56 · 08-05-2017, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr500

I tried the bearing kit from the freight. Wont work until I can at least get some space between the spacer and the backside of the bearing. As per using the drift pin, I have banged on it and it wont budge. With the spacer, I do not have much room to hit it and with the bearing having that small radius on it makes the tool want to jump off. I may try and heat it up a little to see if I can get it started. If I can get it started, then the blind bearing tool should work.

2nd option finding a shop to get them out and Ill put in the new ones. Not many in my area that will work on Kawasaki. They only want to work on what they sell. But im going to try just the same. Might even call up the HD place in town lol

Ughh I wanna ride lol

You do know there is a circlip holding them in i assume.

mr500 · 08-05-2017, 11:05 AM

Yeah I got the clip out.

mick56 · 08-05-2017, 11:51 AM

Get yourself a bearing extractor. Similar to this. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wheels-Man...sAAOSwh2xX~Ld3

ctrider · 08-05-2017, 02:25 PM

I used a long brass punch and mallot. I give it a good wack at 12, 6, 3 and 9 on a clock and keep wacking it until i feel the edge then wack it jt every 10 minutes on the clock until it comes out. Just make sure it comes out evan.

Sent from my KFGIWI using Tapatalk

mick56 · 08-05-2017, 03:03 PM

I cleaned out the recess's with sandpaper,and greased them,before fitting the new bearings.They went in a lot easier than they came out.If i ever need to replace them,i expect it to be a simple job.

Navigator · 08-05-2017, 05:26 PM

Just curious if you guys put the new bearings in the freezer over night before installing them. It's what we used to do on the old Triumph twins. They then go in easier.

I recommend All Balls bearings if you can get them.

mick56 · 08-05-2017, 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Navigator

Just curious if you guys put the new bearings in the freezer over night before installing them. It's what we used to do on the old Triumph twins. They then go in easier.

I recommend All Balls bearings if you can get them.

The problem seems to be getting the bearing out mate.I dont know how big your freezer is,but i cant get a wheel in mine.

UNCLE WILLIE · 08-06-2017, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr500

Mine need to come out Ughh. What have you guys found is the best way to make that happen? The spacer makes it difficult to get any kind of drift pin along the edge of the bearing. How far can I move that spacer off to one side? I don't want to force it. Thinking of maybe using a blind bearing puller, but I thinking the spacer might be too close to the backside of the bearing. Those pullers need to grab on the backside of the bearing with the flared edges. Is there enough room there? I might be overthinking this so those of you have done it please share lol

u can use 2 chizels -- one on outer side then a longer one through the spacer -- they will wedge together in the inner bearing race and drive out with a little effort

pete · 08-06-2017, 07:07 PM

I used a blind bearing puller with slide hammer very similar to this kit... off Ebay I think...cheap but did the job. http://www.autotoolsdirect.com/5pc-b...edle-390-p.asp
Did the rear and front bearings 12 months ago. Replaced with All Balls. Inspected a few weeks back and after around 20,000 km's all good.
Takes a bit, but persevere and you'll be fine.

mr500 · 08-07-2017, 07:35 AM

Pete..Yeah I bought that one too. It wont do it for me. The spacer is so close to the bearing, that It wont grab the bearing. It wants to grab the spacer. I ordered another puller similar to what the manual calls out. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-W...72.m2749.l2649

Willie...If this puller doesn't work Ill look into the chisel idea

Thanks All....Will follow up

08-04-2017, 08:31 AM	#1
mr500 Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Auburn Al Posts: 247	Front Wheel Brng... Mine need to come out Ughh. What have you guys found is the best way to make that happen? The spacer makes it difficult to get any kind of drift pin along the edge of the bearing. How far can I move that spacer off to one side? I don't want to force it. Thinking of maybe using a blind bearing puller, but I thinking the spacer might be too close to the backside of the bearing. Those pullers need to grab on the backside of the bearing with the flared edges. Is there enough room there? I might be overthinking this so those of you have done it please share lol __________________ 2019 1700 Voyager VBA #02943 Login or Register to Remove Ads
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08-04-2017, 06:41 PM	#2
VARider07 Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Virginia Beach, VA Posts: 156	http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/s...+wheel+bearing Read this post. It'll put you in the neighborhood. You can also do a search 'replace front wheel bearings', that's how I found this. __________________ VARider07 07 Nomad 1600 Ultimate Seat Harley Bagger Muffs Christian Motorcycle Rider
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08-04-2017, 07:15 PM	#3
DragonLady58 Sr. Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Somewhere South of Alaska.... Posts: 2,358	Pull your front wheel, use your air driver and take off your front disc's, (they're really easy to warp, but mark them first for position, and for the correct side). Put wheel down on tabletop/bench/worksurface, supported on some soft wood, get yourself a long soft punch, make sure it has a sharp edge. Go past the 1/2 way point thru hub and spacer, feel for the edge. Once you get it, pop it good with a medium lead or deadblow hammer, once you get it going, it'll come on out. Flip wheel over, repeat. Install is reverse. I normally put 2 small V's in the spacer, both sides, 180 degrees from each other, in line. Its easy with the small V's, I have a long soft brass punch that engages in them perfectly. Remember, use some soft wood between wheel and tabletop.... __________________ --------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride!
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08-05-2017, 10:07 AM	#4
mr500 Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Auburn Al Posts: 247	I tried the bearing kit from the freight. Wont work until I can at least get some space between the spacer and the backside of the bearing. As per using the drift pin, I have banged on it and it wont budge. With the spacer, I do not have much room to hit it and with the bearing having that small radius on it makes the tool want to jump off. I may try and heat it up a little to see if I can get it started. If I can get it started, then the blind bearing tool should work. 2nd option finding a shop to get them out and Ill put in the new ones. Not many in my area that will work on Kawasaki. They only want to work on what they sell. But im going to try just the same. Might even call up the HD place in town lol Ughh I wanna ride lol __________________ 2019 1700 Voyager VBA #02943
	0

08-05-2017, 10:42 AM	#5
DragonLady58 Sr. Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Somewhere South of Alaska.... Posts: 2,358	Chancez are they mighg be the norigional bearings....if you have a mig, just put a plug in the bearing and drive it out. If you don't havena mig, the drift, the hammer and a press....take it to a machine shop....about 30 bones.... About 15 minutes work for them.... __________________ --------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride! Login or Register to Remove Ads
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08-05-2017, 11:05 AM	#7
mr500 Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Auburn Al Posts: 247	Yeah I got the clip out. __________________ 2019 1700 Voyager VBA #02943
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08-05-2017, 11:51 AM	#8
mick56 Sr. Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: The Newforest, England Posts: 4,664	Get yourself a bearing extractor. Similar to this. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wheels-Man...sAAOSwh2xX~Ld3 __________________ when this you see, remember me, and bear me in your mind, let all the world say what they may, speak of me as you find.
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08-05-2017, 02:25 PM	#9
ctrider Advanced Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: South Windsor, CT Posts: 735	I used a long brass punch and mallot. I give it a good wack at 12, 6, 3 and 9 on a clock and keep wacking it until i feel the edge then wack it jt every 10 minutes on the clock until it comes out. Just make sure it comes out evan. Sent from my KFGIWI using Tapatalk __________________ VBA #02482 VROC # 36172
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08-05-2017, 03:03 PM	#10
mick56 Sr. Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: The Newforest, England Posts: 4,664	I cleaned out the recess's with sandpaper,and greased them,before fitting the new bearings.They went in a lot easier than they came out.If i ever need to replace them,i expect it to be a simple job. __________________ when this you see, remember me, and bear me in your mind, let all the world say what they may, speak of me as you find.
	0

08-05-2017, 05:26 PM	#11
Navigator Advanced Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Banner, WA Posts: 644	Just curious if you guys put the new bearings in the freezer over night before installing them. It's what we used to do on the old Triumph twins. They then go in easier. I recommend All Balls bearings if you can get them. __________________ Mike USN Retired 2007 Nomad
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08-06-2017, 07:07 PM	#14
pete Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Australia, Perth. Posts: 236	I used a blind bearing puller with slide hammer very similar to this kit... off Ebay I think...cheap but did the job. http://www.autotoolsdirect.com/5pc-b...edle-390-p.asp Did the rear and front bearings 12 months ago. Replaced with All Balls. Inspected a few weeks back and after around 20,000 km's all good. Takes a bit, but persevere and you'll be fine.
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08-07-2017, 07:35 AM	#15
mr500 Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Auburn Al Posts: 247	Pete..Yeah I bought that one too. It wont do it for me. The spacer is so close to the bearing, that It wont grab the bearing. It wants to grab the spacer. I ordered another puller similar to what the manual calls out. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-W...72.m2749.l2649 Willie...If this puller doesn't work Ill look into the chisel idea Thanks All....Will follow up __________________ 2019 1700 Voyager VBA #02943
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