Brake Fluiddddd

[mr500]

Hey All...Busy day. Changed out my tired battery, changed out my coolant, tightened up all the hoses. They were looser than I thought lol.. Threw on rear pads.

Fronts tomorrow along with changing out the brake fluid. I wanted to add the new pads before I did the bleed. I don't think it has ever been done in the 27xxx miles that are on the bike. I'm second owner.,..


Question is, what brake fluid is everyone going with these days? I'm thinking some off the shelf DOT 4. Don't know if the synthetic is going to make a difference.

Is it wise to go ahead and do the clutch fluid also? Im assuming its same procedure as the brakes,,

Thoughts...

TIA

[ringadingh]

I use regular dot 4 fluid, make sure that you clean out the bottom of the reservoirs , they usually have a layer of sediment in the bottom. And make sure that the tiny hole in the bottom is not plugged. Its a good idea to do the clutch as well well while your at it.

[MrMikey]

What he said.
All brake fluid is synthetic, it's a sales pitch to get more $$ when they use that word to advertise a brand as being better.
The higher numbers have a higher boiling point.
Just don't go with DOT5 (silicone based) unless you do a complete flush, it doesn't play nice with anything else.
I believe DOT 5.1 is the newest designation that can be used as it is glycol based and is good for around 500 deg I think.
Easiest way to change the fluids is with a vacuum pump such as this http://tinyurl.com/y7cuv4te it can be done without it but this way is much easier..........Mike

[mr500]

anyone know the bleeder OD. Guess I can buy some different size ID tubing so I will have a choice...

[OldSchool]

Originally Posted by mr500

anyone know the bleeder OD. Guess I can buy some different size ID tubing so I will have a choice...

The manufacture stated brake fluid for you scoot is DOT4.
The tubing you need is 1/4 inch tubing.

[UNCLE WILLIE]

Originally Posted by mr500

Hey All...Busy day. Changed out my tired battery, changed out my coolant, tightened up all the hoses. They were looser than I thought lol.. Threw on rear pads.

Fronts tomorrow along with changing out the brake fluid. I wanted to add the new pads before I did the bleed. I don't think it has ever been done in the 27xxx miles that are on the bike. I'm second owner.,..


Question is, what brake fluid is everyone going with these days? I'm thinking some off the shelf DOT 4. Don't know if the synthetic is going to make a difference.

Is it wise to go ahead and do the clutch fluid also? Im assuming its same procedure as the brakes,,

Thoughts...

TIA

just wondering about dot5 fluid --- years ago i used it in my yamaha clutch and brakes -- flushed evrything then added the silacone dot 5 -- at higher elevation lost the clutch -- felt like air in system -- dropped down under 3000 ft and all was ok -- this happened several times -- the only cure was to go back to dot 3/4 -- brakes seemed to work ok until later as i headed for the DRAGON the rear brake failed -- went home to check fluid and found it had jelled -- finally got it cleaned out and went back to oem fluid and never had any more fluid issues -- no more dot 5 for me

[Sabre-t]

Originally Posted by MrMikey

What he said.
All brake fluid is synthetic, it's a sales pitch to get more $$ when they use that word to advertise a brand as being better.
The higher numbers have a higher boiling point.
Just don't go with DOT5 (silicone based) unless you do a complete flush, it doesn't play nice with anything else.
I believe DOT 5.1 is the newest designation that can be used as it is glycol based and is good for around 500 deg I think.
Easiest way to change the fluids is with a vacuum pump such as this http://tinyurl.com/y7cuv4te it can be done without it but this way is much easier..........Mike

Having someone fill the reservoir for you while you bleed is a big help, too. I had small syringe (used to give my small dog some medicine orally) and had my wife add fluid as needed while I bled with the vacuum pump. Much less chance of making a mess with the brake fluid and ruining paint than if you pour from the bottle, and you don't have to go back and forth yourself filling the reservoir or risking it running dry while you aren't looking.

[MrMikey]

.....or risking it running dry while you aren't looking

Yup, tell me that isn't a pia, especially when you're finished and figure 'I'll do one more pump" and have to start all over again...............Mike

[MAS Tequila]

Originally Posted by UNCLE WILLIE

just wondering about dot5 fluid --- years ago i used it in my yamaha clutch and brakes -- flushed evrything then added the silacone dot 5 -- at higher elevation lost the clutch -- felt like air in system -- dropped down under 3000 ft and all was ok -- this happened several times -- the only cure was to go back to dot 3/4 -- brakes seemed to work ok until later as i headed for the DRAGON the rear brake failed -- went home to check fluid and found it had jelled -- finally got it cleaned out and went back to oem fluid and never had any more fluid issues -- no more dot 5 for me

DOT 5 does absorb air.

At altitude this will create issues just like a scuba diver would encounter.

The lower atmospheric pressure will allow the air absorbed by the fluid to expand and cause problems when trying to brake.

In racing applications it is common to leave the bleeders very slightly cracked to allow the air to escape.

[Jllm02199]

Originally Posted by MAS Tequila

DOT 5 does absorb air.

At altitude this will create issues just like a scuba diver would encounter.

The lower atmospheric pressure will allow the air absorbed by the fluid to expand and cause problems when trying to brake.

In racing applications it is common to leave the bleeders very slightly cracked to allow the air to escape.

I've been to 7,000 ft with no problem.
I don't understand the absorbing air thing.
I know Dot 5 doesnt let moisture in because it's silicone based.
never had a problem in 144,000 miles.

Thanks Tim

[Sabre-t]

Originally Posted by MrMikey

Yup, tell me that isn't a pia, especially when you're finished and figure 'I'll do one more pump" and have to start all over again...............Mike

Been der done dat!

[dhuttonkc]

http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-t...ntroversy.html

If your MOM or Service Manual doesn't specifically call out DOT 5, then don't do it. DOT 3 and 4 are not compatible with 5, nor are the wetted parts of your brake or clutch systems, including the hoses unless 5 is specifically called out for your model year and bike. DOT 4 is actually a better performer than 5, if you intend to follow the PM interval which is 2 years/24k miles.

[Jllm02199]

Originally Posted by dhuttonkc

http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-t...ntroversy.html

If your MOM or Service Manual doesn't specifically call out DOT 5, then don't do it. DOT 3 and 4 are not compatible with 5, nor are the wetted parts of your brake or clutch systems, including the hoses unless 5 is specifically called out for your model year and bike. DOT 4 is actually a better performer than 5, if you intend to follow the PM interval which is 2 years/24k miles.

Don,
Your opinion is just that. Not based in facts.
I've been running Dot 5 for 14 years. No failures, great braking. Change it every year. Stays clean. No corrosion.
Just because Kawasaki say something doesn't make it so. They also say I can't run regular in my Nomad. Been running it for 14 years.
144,000 miles on regular so I know that is BS.

You can have your opinion. That's fine.

Jim

[Jllm02199]

http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/si...th-832808.html

[UNCLE WILLIE]

Originally Posted by MAS Tequila

DOT 5 does absorb air.

At altitude this will create issues just like a scuba diver would encounter.

The lower atmospheric pressure will allow the air absorbed by the fluid to expand and cause problems when trying to brake.

In racing applications it is common to leave the bleeders very slightly cracked to allow the air to escape.

interesting -- the brakes never were a problem at altitude only the clutch -- i could bleed it and felt ok and by the time i got back on to go [minutes] no clutch -- i had stainless lines on evrything -- i was thinking the fluid wasnt compatable with the seals just in the clutch -- i heard the dot 5 would let moisture puddle and cause corrosion issues so it needed to be changed/flushed anyway so i stayed with dot 5 -- that was @ 30 years ago