Amp on off switch

[1kevin662]

Where can I wire in the on off switch for am amp on 2004 nomad? Would like to make sure it turns off with the key just in case I forget to turn it off

[cactusjack]

You need a relay to make it turn on/off with the ignition switch and wire in a toggle switch to manually turn the unit on/off. If it were me, I'd put the switch in the left neck cover, there's plenty of room behind it, and it's inexpensive if your decide to remove the system down the road and don't want to leave a hole.

[yoda]

I agree with CJ, the left neck cover is where I put mine. I also put my switch for the driving lights in the same cover.

[ringadingh]

I agree too!

[Monkeyman]

I don't know that I've ever had an amp on a bike but I've had plenty in cages. Never needed a power switch for any of them. Why would you need one on a bike? They're supposed to turn themselves on and off by themselves.

[1kevin662]

where is the best place to find a wire that turns on with the key? or is there a spare somewhere ment for this? and where can i find a pic of your switches that you have added

[HwyRider]

I put a Rockford Fosgate punch amp and stereo in to the Suzuki that I had.

This is how it was wired which applies to your bike too.

I added an aux fuse panel that you can get at auto zone cheap. It held 6 fuses.

Run a wire from the aux plug that you have on the bike to a automobile relay and then to the fuse panel. Most bikes have an aux plug usually in the headlight bucket that only comes on after the bike is started and shuts off when the bike is shut off.

Now anytime that you add something to the bike you just plug in to the new fuse panel and nothing starts from that panel until the bike starts.

[cactusjack]

It's been awhile, but I believe the accessory connectors are always hot, regardless of the key. Depending on where you want to do the wiring, either tap into the taillight circuit under the seat or the running light circuit in the headlight bucket. DO NOT TAP INTO THE HEADLIGHT CIRCUIT.

[wnt2ryd]

Most name-brand amps will have an input for "remote power." This is usually in the form of a blue lead coming from the head unit, which provides a small +12v signal to let the amp know to turn on whenever the stereo is powered up.

I would suggest running a heavy gauge wire for power and ground directly to the battery (fusing both sides), and then you can use a smaller gauge wire from a key-on or switch accessory to feed the "remote power" input of the amp. The +12v signal for remote on doesn't draw much, and I've never seen one that was fused.

Many top-end names in audio are making small amps now that go against many of the rules established long ago... BRT (boosted rail technology) allows for a lot of power output from a small footprint amp. Rockford Fosgate has their PBR Punch series, Alpine has a popular KTP-445U , and SoundStream has the PN Picasso Nano series. My favorite is the SoundStream PN4.520d Picasso Nano. 520 watts (130Wx4) and 2Ω stable!

Be aware that the popular 4 channel Fosgate (PBR300X4) is NOT stable at a 2Ω load and will cook easily if pushed below the suggested 4Ω. (Lots of info on that subject available via Google search).

Another great thing with these new/small amps is they don't generate heat like their older/bigger counterparts. I have mine mounted in the Quadzilla fairing, just below the deck, and can play it all day, in the sun, with no heat issues.

Let us know what you decide to do!