Another Noise Question

[johnberryus]

I've searched through the forum on the subject of front end noise and I am not completely satisfied with the information I have gleaned.

I have an 05 VN1600 Which I just put a set of Exedra MAX tires on at the beginning of winter, I may have about 4000mi or so on them by now. I always run them @ 40 front and 42 rear Psi. and I ride everyday everywhere (I don't own a car).

The last few days I have detected what sounds to me at low speeds to be a wheel bearing um Whirr.. Whirr... Whirr at lower speed. The sound is increasing and decreasing with speed and does not matter if I'm leaning or not. Definitely not the brakes Plenty of pad left and the front wheel bearing does not feel loose (no Wobble). Also there is very very little detectable vibration (might be imagined ). The steering tree feels entirely stable as well, very smooth no play at all.

Could this be the tires? Might they be cupped, front or rear as I know that sometimes the rear can sound like it's coming from the front.

Any ideas or other things I should look at? Keep in mind I'm in an apartment and Can't tear anything down. I have the bike going over to my buddies to get the clutch spring fixed in a week or so, will it be safe until then?

[recumbentbob]

Sounds like tire noise to me. Run your hand over the tire and see if you can feel any cupping. If it's cupping the tire will be safe
to ride just annoying.

Check this out.
http://www.rattlebars.com/tirewear/

[blowndodge]

John depending on the mileage on the tires it could very well be them. Tires start singing at about 8K miles.

[MJ07Nomad]

I run the same tires and use Ride-On in both tires, I started using it after I had a Whir..ended up the front tire was cupped. Put the Ride On in and rode 10 Miles, never had any more Whir..again. That was 14,000 miles ago, just installed new tires (same) and 1st thing I did was install Ride-On, should be good for 14K again.
If it was a front wheel bearing just check the play, looking at the bike, standing in front of it, the left fork has a washer (lookong thing) there is space between that washer and the fork, if it more then 1/8 of a inch, you need new bearings, you will not feel any wobble til that space gets bigger then 1/8". Now if it is the tire just run your hand over the top and sides, if it is cuped you will feel it before you can see it.

[johnberryus]

What's ride - on is that a balancing system like Dyna-beads?

[starvy40]

Originally Posted by johnberryus

What's ride - on is that a balancing system like Dyna-beads?

Its more like slime, MUCH better though. so it is a sealer and they also say it acts as a balancer. I used it once in a tire that had a 3/16" hole in and it sealed it for the life of the tire. Also if you look up Ultra-Seal same stuff. I also believe Harbor Freight had some of the very same stuff. It's more of a blue/gray color and thicker than slime. slime sucks !!! Best thing about it would be if you did pick up a nail or something it will seal it.

[jandreu]

See this link...I have a slow leak at the bead of my rear tire...wounder if this would work?
http://www.ride-on.com/

[starvy40]

Originally Posted by jandreu

See this link...I have a slow leak at the bead of my rear tire...wounder if this would work?
http://www.ride-on.com/

Not sure if it would work on the bead being it would be hard for it to get there.

[billmac]

It would seem logical to me that if the noise is in fact the tire(s), the sound would change with the varying road surfaces. If the road doesn't make a difference, then a bearing or a wind noise seems possible too. I had a Gold Wing that the fairing would make some noise when the wind hit it just right.

I want to add that brake pads are a very likely suspect too. I would check those closely and maybe try some anti-noise stuff on them. I have sanded my pads on the edges to reduce noise.

My tire man told me no slime allowed in my tires. He doesn't like the mess of the beads either. Wonder if he would accept Ride-On? I could act dumb, he would believe that. :)

I have Avon tires and my tire man has always done an excellent job of balancing my tires.

[johnberryus]

Ok, not sure I'm buying the tire noise at this point.

New info.... The noise is really only detectable at speeds below 45 mph. And is louder under throttle, even very light throttle, definitely sounds like metal rubbing intermittently.
The sound almost disappears when you release the throttle. :confused:

[johnberryus]

Well guess what.

Saturday riding home in the afternoon from a breakfast event and ride with my club The noise got louder.

I was thinking I need to get her home and get this checked out.
As I was listening to it I realized it was louder under a load even a small one. shortly thereafter I went to make a shift and whoops no clutch just a wimpy lever pull, looked at the sight gauge and could see no fluid, meanwhile the whine turns into a low howl.

I pump the lever and bingo Clutch action I'm three miles from the next exit so I start getting over, sure enough pumping the clutch works but I detect a little clunky noise along with the howl.

Called AAA and had her towed to the dealer, still waiting for them to open her up and give me the lowdown.

[MAS Tequila]

Front bevel gear bearing

The bearing going bad would heat the clutch fluid and cause the symptoms you have.

If you're mechanically inclined, it will cost about $50.00 in parts and about 12 hours.

Most shops will charge in excess of $1000. The bearing is not available from Kaw, they sell the whole cover. Once you remove the bearing take it to a bearing supplier. In NC I paid about $15 for the last two I changed.

MT

[ringadingh]

I'll bet its the bevel gear bearing also, Its an easy fix, unless a lot of stuff got chewed up in there, hopefully you stopped in time.
Also at that age bike you should replace the rubber driveshaft boot and check the Ujoint as well. They start to crack at that age and allow water to get in, then the Ujoints fail quickly.

[johnberryus]

Originally Posted by MAS Tequila

Front bevel gear bearing

The bearing going bad would heat the clutch fluid and cause the symptoms you have.

If you're mechanically inclined, it will cost about $50.00 in parts and about 12 hours.

Most shops will charge in excess of $1000. The bearing is not available from Kaw, they sell the whole cover. Once you remove the bearing take it to a bearing supplier. In NC I paid about $15 for the last two I changed.

MT

Originally Posted by ringadingh

I'll bet its the bevel gear bearing also, Its an easy fix, unless a lot of stuff got chewed up in there, hopefully you stopped in time.
Also at that age bike you should replace the rubber driveshaft boot and check the Ujoint as well. They start to crack at that age and allow water to get in, then the Ujoints fail quickly.

Holy F***,

I unfortunately do not have a place to work on my bike to that extent. I live in an apartment, I do still have a year left on my extended warranty from purchasing the bike last year.

Hopefully I got off the road in time.

[ringadingh]

If you have extended warranty thats great, you should have nothing to worry about.
I'm not sure if you have a deductable but see what the dealer says about replacing the neccessary parts.