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Old 10-07-2010, 01:05 PM   #46
dougster   dougster is offline
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Swing Arm Bolt

I think Mac just enjoys doing the swingarm service! ;)
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Old 10-07-2010, 04:37 PM   #47
macmac   macmac is offline
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Swing Arm Bolt

I am running a CT and am over due on the swingarm. i am pretty sure the stiff marine grade chassi grease I stuffed in the long bolt tube, spacers and bolt will be good, but I am pretty sure the wheel hub, and both ends of my driveshaft moly lube will be dead.

It's a winter project, or early spring depending on when the bike goes in the trailer and if the snow stops me from getting it back out. it will be time for me to check/replace the fork head bearings too. If I come by $$ anywhere maybe some progressive fork springs would be in order.

I will need cam extenders too soon. I got 20,000+ now.
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Old 10-07-2010, 04:38 PM   #48
macmac   macmac is offline
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Swing Arm Bolt


Quote:
Originally Posted by dougster
I think Mac just enjoys doing the swingarm service! ;)
No, I fear any one of you guys endin' up dead for a bad U joint.
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Old 10-07-2010, 05:49 PM   #49
dougster   dougster is offline
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And I really appreciate it, Mac! (I just couldn't resist ribbing you).
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Old 10-07-2010, 06:32 PM   #50
macmac   macmac is offline
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NP big guy...... I figured as much
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Old 02-26-2011, 06:04 PM   #51
petechewy   petechewy is offline
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Swing Arm Bolt

Hi guys. Thanks to everyone who took an interest and tried to help. I've now rebuilt the swing arm with new bearings,spacers,oil seals and of course a new bolt. I've done a couple of modifications which you might find of interest. Firstly I've drilled the spacer tube right under the battery box and fitted a grease nipple.Then I've machined the centre spacer with a groove 0.075" deep from end to end and machined a groove the same depth right around the centre of the spacer with a 1/4" hole going right through both sides. this will allow grease to get into and around the spacer right through to the bearings until it comes through to the seals. You can lift up the swing arm with a feather!!!
 
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Old 02-28-2011, 01:18 PM   #52
macmac   macmac is offline
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Still that doesn't get you to the drive shaft to check the U joint and or to moly lube the rest of the splines...

I am still curious as to drilling out a bolt over 12 inches long..

I can only assume you cut the bolt in 2 places to drop the swing arm out.
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Old 02-28-2011, 02:55 PM   #53
petechewy   petechewy is offline
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Swing Arm Bolt

Hi Mac. Yes I did cut the bolt in two places so that I could remove the swing arm.Then I drilled out the centre part of the bolt, and I was only about .064 out from side to side.This didn't matter because the centre tube has to have clearance around the spacer.The splines are fine and the UJ has been regreased.
I will post some pictures when I come off vacation. I'm off to Marbella, Spain on Sunday. Anything is an improvement on UK weather!!
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:36 PM   #54
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Have fun in Spain..... Look over fancy switchblade knives for me and drool on them if you can please!
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Old 02-28-2011, 11:18 PM   #55
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Swing Arm Bolt

Mac when you talk about the greasing the rear hub are you refering to the splines that the rear wheel meshes with or something else?

DC
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Old 03-04-2011, 02:24 PM   #56
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Swing Arm Bolt

Yes, the rear wheel seems to not get regreased often enough. I have seen a few bikes with real dry splines there for the changing of a flat, or a worn tire and not getting any moly grease at the same time.

Anytime that wheel is off is the time to grease thouse splines well. Well means cleaning off the old grease nicely and adding new grease. That is IF there is any grease to clean off.


The wheel is a compound wheel and there is substanical friction in the wheel and on the splines. A dry wheel will get to be around 600 degrees unevenly at times.

I don't know how that happens, I just know it happens, and by the discoloration of the inner wheel. It gets a gold tone showing apx 400* and will spread out from being peacock blue which is apx 600*.

I think this is due to the plate circliped to the wheel moving rapidly, but not much distance. That's a guess.
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Old 03-04-2011, 04:43 PM   #57
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Mac
Thanks for the clarification on this

Mine had some grease streaks running out from the female portion of this spline but not any abundance of grease there. Did not notice any discoloration.

DC
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PA Wilds NE/Eastern Canada regional rally July 2012
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Old 03-04-2011, 08:21 PM   #58
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Swing Arm Bolt

Yeah good, that plate is exactly where I mean. I need to do that service this spring, as well as the forks head bearings service. Can't start till some snow goes. Was -6 here last night and I work enough in there in that sorts cold doing the bike I can't ride, would be no fun.

It's almost maple sugar season

mac aka Mr. Maple Man

I forget who it was here that coined that handle on me
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Old 03-06-2011, 09:07 AM   #59
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Swing Arm Bolt

I installed the zerk fitting when I performed the swing arm service. It is not intended, as Mac points out, the ultimate cure for servicing the other parts or the swing arm service itself. I use it to lightly supplement the lubrication until the next scheduled service. What does the book say? 7,500 miles or so? Regardless, it used to be whenever a rear tire is replaced on a regularly ridden bike. But with the use of car tires, well I expect to service the arm a heck of a lot prior to wearing out my CT.

Does that maple syrup come sugar-free?
 
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Old 03-06-2011, 11:46 AM   #60
macmac   macmac is offline
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Swing Arm Bolt

A zerk for between service is a good idea..... It just won't put off the inevitable and I worry guys will skip the real services. That is the drive shaft moly lube and of course inspecting the U joint. I don't have a lot of friends and like the idea of keeping the few I have.

No sugar free maple here. I only add heat and nothing else to any of it. There is a slew of chems that can be added, but I never ever do.
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