cruise control install

[macmac]

Ah Haa.. I don't have the CC, so wasn't aware it used vacuum.. Suddenly it all makes perfect sence. Thanks Cj.

I know of a cool looking vac pod that is common as dirt in 80's vitage volvo, because volvo uses lots of vac operated controlls to run air vents.

The unit is apx the size of 4 tennis balls in a line. I don't know that anyone will hunt one down, but it does have a certain interesting look. Being white it would need paint to match.

These engine make plenty of vacuum, just like any 1600 cc engine.. The thing is none of it is stored anywhere, it comes in radical pulses at idle and low rpm and goes away as rpm increases.

What you guys with the CC need is a storge system which seems to be worked out over at gadet's.

[mtn1600]

Originally Posted by cactusjack

I went out at lunch today and rounded up the components needed to build the vacuum reservoir, except for the vacuum check valve. I'll pick that up tomorrow or Thursday.

One of my challenges is going to be where to mount the reservoir and the servo assembly. The LH side cover is no good because it's already full. Time to think outside the box.

You can eliminate the reservoir by using one the engine guards. I used the left one for my cc. Take the bar off and plug the bottom hole. I used an 1/8" pipe plug by drilling the hole the correct size and tapping the hole. Then drill and tap the top hole for an 1/8" pipe. Put an 1/8" fitting with a barbed end appropriate for the vacuum hose and remount the bar. Place a tee in the vacuum hose a couple of inches from the vacuum source. The check valve should be between the source and the new tee. Run one line from the tee to your engine guard/reservoir and the other to the cc.

It works just fine.

Leo

[cactusjack]

Originally Posted by mtn1600

You can eliminate the reservoir by using one the engine guards. I used the left one for my cc. Take the bar off and plug the bottom hole. I used an 1/8" pipe plug by drilling the hole the correct size and tapping the hole. Then drill and tap the top hole for an 1/8" pipe. Put an 1/8" fitting with a barbed end appropriate for the vacuum hose and remount the bar. Place a tee in the vacuum hose a couple of inches from the vacuum source. The check valve should be between the source and the new tee. Run one line from the tee to your engine guard/reservoir and the other to the cc.

It works just fine.

Leo

I'm sure that would work, if I didn't have wiring for my lights running through mine. I think I have a solution figured out.

[VulcanE]

I plan to use my highway bar as Leo described, when I get around to doing the install. My plates pretty full right now though.

CJ, did you figure out where your going to mount your servo yet?

[cactusjack]

Originally Posted by VulcanE

I plan to use my highway bar as Leo described, when I get around to doing the install. My plates pretty full right now though.

CJ, did you figure out where your going to mount your servo yet?

Not yet. I had to work most of last Saturday and was Christmas shopping on Sunday. I'll try to look at it this weekend. If not, I am on vacation 12/25-01/04 and I'll figure it out when I do the install.

[bobzinger]

What about mounting a vac pod where the goats belly used to be?

[nomaddriver03]

I believe the problem is that LED's draw so little current, typically 20 milliamps, instead of around one to two amps that a normal filament stop light type bulb does. If a resistor is installed in parallel with the stop light filament, it will increase the current draw so that the CC module will see it as it does the normal type bulb. Then you will be able to keep using the LED bulb. There is a good website called " superbrightleds.com " that will explain this in the 12 volt automotive bulb section. There is a PDF file explaining the resistor addition. Basically, you add a resistor to one side of the 12 volt input to the stop light feed wire, and the other end of the resistor to ground. This will add a "Load" to the circuit. I tried to add a hyperlink to the website, but wasn't able to do it here. They suggest a six ohm, 50 watt resistor, but I think a ten ohm, two watt resistor should do it. Hope this works for your application.

Bob

[Yellow Jacket]

The addition of resistors or "load adapters" is to allow the turn signal flasher to operate correctly when using only LED's. The CC module has no way to "see" the amount of current being used by the bulbs. I believe the issue is caused by the LEDs not returning to a zero volt condition on the input circuit when the brake is not activated.

[nomaddriver03]

Hi Bob;

Yes I agree with your statement in regards to turn signals. Either a solid state flasher module is needed, or the load resistors to be able to use leds in turn signals. But back to the stop light issue. The led is a slightly specialized diode that emits light when energized. It is a solid state junction and has no internal resistance. The load resistor in parallel with the stop light led will act as a pull down resistor and provide a path to ground to direct any residual voltage to ground and insure that the supply side voltage once removed will be zero volts. I believe that is why when the conventional bulbs with a resistive filament is used the CC will work just fine. The led cannot do this, so the load resistor.

[Yellow Jacket]

Hi nomaddriver03,

Thanks for your explanation. I understand now what you were saying. I agree that a load resistor should have the same effect as an incandescent bulb in pulling the residual voltage down to zero or near-zero volts. This would be a much simpler solution than wiring in a relay to isolate the circuit to the CC.

Cheers, Bob

[cactusjack]

Whatever you guys with LED lights figure out to make it work, please email Gadget and let him know what you did so he can add it to his page.