Help I have some bad noise??

[ringadingh]

Good to hear that you got it figured out.

[macmac]

That's great news. I can't wait to see the bad bearing. Now i want to know what the dealer gets per per hour. The dealer would have over 8 hours even if he was fair and knew what the job was before they went in.

It seems you are the thinking type, and have been careful, so I hope there are no errors.

[Smitty]

Here are some pics of whats in side the gear box, hope it helps someone else
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=f2104826df
All in all it wasn't that bad just a lot of time, glad to have it done and now the swing arm is so tight no more clunks!

[VulcanE]

Very good write-up and photos. Glad you got it all back together. I got one question though.......... How did you loosen & torque the nut that you said tightened to 195 ft lbs?

[Smitty]

I put the drive shaft back on temporally with leather around it and put a big pipe wrench on it with a strap to hold it. Then with a breaker bar and a 4ft cheater it came loose. Reverse the same once it was back on the bike. MT was the one who told me to loosen it before I remove the case, very good advice.

[macmac]

Originally Posted by Smitty

I put the drive shaft back on temporally with leather around it and put a big pipe wrench on it with a strap to hold it. Then with a breaker bar and a 4ft cheater it came loose. Reverse the same once it was back on the bike. MT was the one who told me to loosen it before I remove the case, very good advice.

What is this advice about? I am not sure i understand.

What made the metal flakes I saw first in pic 9?

Is this advice from MT due to chops binding and you turned the drive shaft backwards by hand?

I would like to see the dead part if possible.

You did great!

[MAS Tequila]

Originally Posted by macmac

What is this advice about? I am not sure i understand.

What made the metal flakes I saw first in pic 9?

Is this advice from MT due to chops binding and you turned the drive shaft backwards by hand?

I would like to see the dead part if possible.

You did great!

What happens is that if you have the bearing in your hand holding the outer racer and shake it the inner will move back and forth.

For some reason MaKaw uses that bearing to help locate one of the bevel gears.


MT

[macmac]

Originally Posted by MAS Tequila

What happens is that if you have the bearing in your hand holding the outer racer and shake it the inner will move back and forth.

For some reason MaKaw uses that bearing to help locate one of the bevel gears.


MT

Never been there yet. Tomm and Flavor haven't broken that part yet

Nice to find out before i need to know.

[Smitty]

Mac the metal flakes are from the bearing. I took some video of the bearing wiggling but I can't get it off the phone to post. Other than that the bearings inner race was serverly warn. When you remove that inspection cap there is a nut torqued to 195 ft lbs that you need to loosen before you remove the case. The only way is a special tool ($75.00-100.00) or find a way to hold the gear that the drive shaft hooks on to. So I used the drive shaft to hold it and to make sure it wasn't damaged. I cleaned all the metal flakes out and to be safe put cheap oil in the bike road it for 30 min and then drained it out as soon as I stopped. Just to flush it out. Checked the screen and there was only a few flakes. Then refilled with new synthetic oil. I will change again after a 1000 or 2000 mile just to be safe.

[macmac]

Originally Posted by Smitty

Mac the metal flakes are from the bearing. I took some video of the bearing wiggling but I can't get it off the phone to post. Other than that the bearings inner race was serverly warn. When you remove that inspection cap there is a nut torqued to 195 ft lbs that you need to loosen before you remove the case. The only way is a special tool ($75.00-100.00) or find a way to hold the gear that the drive shaft hooks on to. So I used the drive shaft to hold it and to make sure it wasn't damaged. I cleaned all the metal flakes out and to be safe put cheap oil in the bike road it for 30 min and then drained it out as soon as I stopped. Just to flush it out. Checked the screen and there was only a few flakes. Then refilled with new synthetic oil. I will change again after a 1000 or 2000 mile just to be safe.

Ok that all makes sense. You sure are handy

[Smitty]

It's just all the good info from guys like you, and the others who are willing to share what they have learned, so us new guys dare to tackle the problem Thanks again to all who help