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Old 12-10-2008, 12:26 PM   #16
macmac   macmac is offline
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cruise control install

I don't have leds or that CC.. Re thinking maybe a relay isn't all that bad of an idea to try out.

I am not sure how leds will like this, but it shouldn't harm them to run this as a test.

This entire bit is a test, so don't try to make anything wired in for real untill you know if it works.

Using a SPST standard relay, the same for driving passing lamps wire it this way.

T-30 from brake light wire
T-86 from brake light wire

so simply build a Y from the brake light wire and plug into these T terminal numbers on the relay. Both terminals will be energized by either brake lever or pedal.

T-87 will be the other side of the brake wire, so you will have to cut the wire somewhere in line
T-85 will go to the CC wire that sees volts.

I wish I could say 'I know this will work" but I don't. I think it will..

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Old 12-11-2008, 08:51 AM   #17
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My electrical bud got back with me yesterday and he seems to think that if you use a standard relay (like the one Mac mentioned that we use for driving lights) will do the job. He said that if you wire it to where the trigger (#86) is the bike's brake light wire, # 30 is powered from the battery, # 87 to the servo (12 VDC), and # 85 going to ground, that the servo will "see" the required 12 volts when the brakes are used.
Does not come with a 100% guarantee, but he thinks it'll work.
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Old 12-11-2008, 09:42 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VulcanE
My electrical bud got back with me yesterday and he seems to think that if you use a standard relay (like the one Mac mentioned that we use for driving lights) will do the job. He said that if you wire it to where the trigger (#86) is the bike's brake light wire, # 30 is powered from the battery, # 87 to the servo (12 VDC), and # 85 going to ground, that the servo will "see" the required 12 volts when the brakes are used.
Does not come with a 100% guarantee, but he thinks it'll work.
It sounds like it should work to me. Someone with LEDs needs to test it and report back. I don't have LEDs or I would do it. I think the key is making sure it's got a good ground.
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Old 12-11-2008, 12:21 PM   #19
macmac   macmac is offline
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cruise control install

Not quite... The key is running the brake lamp thru the relay, and then using the brake lamp as the switch to power the CC and trip it to off. The way to do this is to charge the CC to + power with the relay ground.. I think..

The CC sees the brake light come on, and so the relay T-85 to ground is the path to take, and tell the CC the relay wants to go to ground thru the relay, which it should..

I have neither device so I can't test it for you.
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Old 12-11-2008, 06:25 PM   #20
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cruise control install

LED only brake light issue with the AudioVox cruise control.

After reading about this on Gadjet's page it seems to be that the issue is not that the CC doesn't see the 12 volts when the brakes are applied. Rather, it seems to be that when only LEDs are in the brake circuit the line doesn't go back to zero volts when the brakes are not applied.

I have LED running/brake lights I have installed as well as the stock running/brake light using the stock incandescent bulb. I did some experimenting today and this is what I came up with.

Brake and running lights with both LED and incandescent bulbs connected:

With brakes applied the blue wire has 12 volts present.
With the brakes off the blue wire has .04 volts present.

Brake and running lights with only the LEDs connected:

With brakes applied the blue wire has 12 volts present.
With the brakes off the blue wire has 5 volts present.

I believe that if the cruise control Purple wire in position 4 is isolated with a relay from the LEDs then it will function properly.

Using a standard relay I suggest that it be wired up as follows:

1. Connect the Purple wire from the cruise control to terminal 87 on the relay.

2. Connect terminal 86 on the relay to frame ground.

3. Connect terminal 30 and 85 to the blue brake wire.

(Terminals 85 and 86 are interchangeable, it doesn't make any difference to the relay which direction the current flows through the coil.)

If wired as above, when the brakes are applied, 12 volts will be fed to the coil of the relay and to terminal 30. This will cause the normally open contact to transfer to closed and will feed the 12 volts which is applied to terminal 30 through terminal 87 and to the cruise control.

When the brakes are released, the relay will drop which will open the contacts between terminal 30 and 87. The purple wire to the cruise control will then drop to zero volts since it will be totally isolated from the blue brake wire.

Here is the wiring diagram which illustrates what I'm trying to say above:

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Old 12-11-2008, 07:31 PM   #21
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Bob sounds like we have a winner
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Old 12-12-2008, 03:35 AM   #22
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cruise control install

All of this info sounds good. Now if I only knew what the hell you were all saying. ??? I will be checking all of this with my engineer friend, that does my electrical work. I did check with my local Kawi dealer today and their answer was to remove the LEDs. I crossed over to the other side of the motorcycle mall by where I live and went to H.D. They were very willing to help a guy with "a metric".
My friend had suggested that a separate relay might be the way to go. Basically after drawing me a picture and explaining things, the guy at H.D. agreed that my friend has a great idea, but thinks that because I have a relay already in place for the LEDs , that I should just hook up the c.c. as suggested in the directions and see if I even have a problem. Then if I do just install the relay. So depending on when my friend can give me a hand, I'll be sure to let everyone kow what works.
Thanks for all the info and suggestions.
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Old 12-12-2008, 09:51 AM   #23
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This is sort of thinking out loud on my part. Since this is the Audiovox cruise control install thread, maybe we can post what does and doesn't work, since there are a number of these installations either in progress or going to take place. There's no point in each of us trying to re-invent the wheel, so we can share thoughts and ideas here.

As I've stated before, I am going to have a problem finding suitable mounting locations for the vacuum reservoir and the servo unit since my left side cover is already full.

After I built my vacuum reservoir according to the specs on Gadget's page, it looks kind of "bulky", the good news is it can be mounted just about anywhere, there's no compelling reason to mount it near either the vacuum source or the servo.

So...I have been doing some thinking. I think a good place to mount it would be down low, maybe by the rectifier? It just so happens there are two bolts approx 7" apart on the bottom of the radiator. I haven't looked closely yet, but I assume it's the lower radiator mount. Anyway, I think I'm going to build a new reservoir out of 1-1/2" PVC and make it maybe 9" long and use p-clamps or some other fabricated bracket and mount it between the radiator and the rectifier using those 2 mounting points. Then just run one hose up to the throttle body for the vacuum source and the other to wherever I locate the servo.

Who knows, I may come up with some other location for the reservoir. I'm going to research this for now.
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Old 12-12-2008, 12:36 PM   #24
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cruise control install

Hey Scott, I'm thinking of using one of the saddlebag crash bars for my vacuum reservoir. The idea came from the bottom of Gadjet's page at the bottom where a guy used the front crash bar. Sounds more elegant to me than making one out of PVC.
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Old 12-12-2008, 02:25 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow Jacket
Hey Scott, I'm thinking of using one of the saddlebag crash bars for my vacuum reservoir. The idea came from the bottom of Gadjet's page at the bottom where a guy used the front crash bar. Sounds more elegant to me than making one out of PVC.
Yeah I read that, but I immediately discounted it because I drilled a hole in each of mine for fog light wiring. I didn't think about the rear bar. I might give that some thought. I didn't like the solution for plugging the existing holes with a bolt coated with JB Weld forced in the holes. I prefer a more elegant solution. Let me know if you think of one.

I stopped at Lowe's on my way back from lunch, and if Gadget's specs calls for 2" PVC at roughly 5" in length, then wouldn't 1" PVC at 10" length give me the same volume? I think I could build one out of 1" and it would be tucked away so you'd have to be looking for it to find it.
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Old 12-12-2008, 02:36 PM   #26
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Reading Bob's method, it looks like there might be two ways to wire a relay to get the same thing done.

And what is the vac res for? Someone add windshield wipers or something?
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Old 12-12-2008, 02:42 PM   #27
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good one mac,,,,LOL
 
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Old 12-12-2008, 03:26 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macmac
Reading Bob's method, it looks like there might be two ways to wire a relay to get the same thing done.

And what is the vac res for? Someone add windshield wipers or something?
These small engines don't produce a huge amount of vacuum, the reservoir just stores it up to make the vacuum servo controller operate smoothly.
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Old 12-13-2008, 04:05 PM   #29
macmac   macmac is offline
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What vac servo? That pod that runs the reed valves???

Oh my bike isn't a Cali bike and i don't have the carbon canister. For that matter my reed valves are disabled, and the plumbing sits in a box in the cellar. So maybe some of you with all that crap working need to run things I have never seen on these bikes.

With all the pure bling lots of you get I thought maybe i was missing out on thelasted gadjet, which i sort of envisioned as a Ass Suction cup to keep the light weight riders saddled in the twisties.. You know the little guys under 275 pounds..
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Old 12-13-2008, 08:29 PM   #30
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The vacuum servo controller for the cruise control, Mac. I don't need the accessory you suggested, I'm no little guy. ::)
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