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07-22-2021, 08:19 AM | #16 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Morrow, Ga.
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Well I'd definitely replace it. May not be the only problem.
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08-08-2021, 02:00 PM | #17 |
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Somewhere South of Alaska....
Posts: 2,359
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Usually, the stators and regulators start acting up when those plugs under the left hand side cover get oily, dirty, corroded....usually melt somewhat....
I always hard wire those connections, keeps the stators and reg's happy.... Yep, fuse box is toast....needs replacing....
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--------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... *My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved* --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride! |
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08-13-2021, 10:17 PM | #18 | |
Jr. Member
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 21
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Quote:
replaced the fuse panel. still having the same problem. the battery voltage never goes above 12.3V. both Stator vAC is good per the manual diodes in the rectifiers are good could the ECU be bad? and if it is, would one from a mean streak or nomad work on the Classic model? I know they look the same, but wasnt sure if they were compatible since they all have different part #s |
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08-13-2021, 10:46 PM | #19 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 116
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Quote:
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08-16-2021, 05:06 PM | #20 |
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Green Bay WI
Posts: 767
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All I can say is yowsa, those results show you have to be careful jumping a motorcycle from another (larger) vehicle. The only safe way is to make sure the vehicle providing the jump is not running. Or perhaps, connect the jumpers to the motorcycle battery and just let it sit for about 1/2 hour, then try to start it without the jumper cables attached.
Since it is not showing 13.4+ volts at idle, and up to 14.7volts at road speed (3000 rpm) usually indicates the voltage regulator is shot.
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08-16-2021, 05:25 PM | #21 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 21
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Quote:
We thought that too. I have a copy of the Service Manual. We tested both rectifiers, one was bad. I've since replaced both with new ones. Still shows the same voltage when idle/3k RPM. |
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02-08-2022, 09:55 PM | #22 |
Jr. Member
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 21
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Changed the wiring harness out. That fixed the speedometer jiggle, and the battery now reads 14.5ish V when running, and 12.5 when bike is off.
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02-10-2022, 07:15 PM | #23 |
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Ankeny Iowa
Posts: 3,697
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Glad it is solved!
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03-20-2022, 07:22 PM | #24 |
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Lee, New Hampshire
Posts: 568
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I only get on here a few times a year now, so just seeing this.
Glad you got it fixed, but sorry to hear it took replacing the wiring harness. See the thread below. Not sure it is the same problem. Only one other person besides me seems to have seen it. But it definitely was a ridiculous wiring design deep inside the wiring harness. http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=49990
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Tom Maziarz (tomm) VBA #00766 2008 Kawasaki Nomad (Black) 1978 Suzuki GS750EC (My son is riding it now.) 2017: National Rally - Lake George, NY 2016: NE US / E Canada Rally - Mont Tremblant, QC 2015: National Rally - Eureka Springs, AR 2014: NE US / E Canada Rally - Lincoln, NH 2012: NE US / E Canada Rally - Wellsboro, PA |
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03-21-2022, 12:34 AM | #25 |
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Green Bay WI
Posts: 767
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Just the fact that replacing the wiring harness fixed the issue, indicates that jump starting a bike from another larger vehicle can be iffy at times. Like has been said here and other forums, best to jump with a similar sized battery and not from a running vehicle.
Way back in the early 80's I jump started my CB750 from my running Toyota, and like you I ended up replacing the wiring harness to get the bike back to normal.
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