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Old 07-15-2013, 12:09 AM   #16
THEREG94   THEREG94 is offline
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Is it worth taking to a shop to figure if it is the plastic gear? Or should I follow the directions minst7877 provided(I am mechanically incline)?



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Old 07-15-2013, 07:02 AM   #17
MAS Tequila   MAS Tequila is offline
 
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That depends on whether you want to pay someone to do it and f@#k it up. Or do it yourself and know it's right.

It may not be the POG.

Where was the clunk coming from?

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Old 07-15-2013, 07:50 AM   #18
ringadingh   ringadingh is offline
 
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Check it yourself, go to Gadgets Fixit sight, there is a lot of good info there.
Ckeck the pog(plastic oil gear) sog(steel oil gear)jog(Judges oil gear).
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Old 07-15-2013, 08:46 AM   #19
macmac   macmac is offline
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You bought a bike and had it shopped sight un-seen? A 99 with the notorious plastic oil gear? I think you bought a bike with lunched engine.

A lot of chips in the screen isn't a good thing.

What did you pay for the 99 and where did it come from to get to you?

I got money on a broken POG (plastic oil gear)

yes do this
Quote:
Originally Posted by minst7877 View Post
You will have to remove the right side frame rail and the clutch cover. Pull the clutch basket and you will see the oil gear. Instructions for doing the clutch will get you tto the gear and back out if its ok. From what you are saying finding it in one piece is unlikely. Instructions to change the clutch spring can be found here.

http://www.gadgetjq.com/clutch_spring_replacement.htm

I hope it doesn't end up like mine did.

http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/s...ight=minst7877

DC
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Last edited by macmac; 07-15-2013 at 08:49 AM.
 
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:55 PM   #20
ndbigfish   ndbigfish is offline
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At initial start-up did it tap or click? Was the oil pressure llght on? When the oil gear goes out the light comes on and it heats up quick. If you stop quickly upon noticing, it will act like the battery is dead and it won't turn over. If the teeth on a steel gear go away, they will be in the oil screen and there will be an almost unbelievable amount of steel in the screen and drain plug. I had to remove the chunks with a magnet when I lost the steel gear. I would check the oil gear. If it turns out to be intact then what you might be hearing is a hydraulic lash adjuster that is dry and has not pumped up. You can make an assessment after you see the gear.
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Old 07-16-2013, 03:49 PM   #21
THEREG94   THEREG94 is offline
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Ok world.... I been doing the research on the POG, & gonna check it this weekend. Wish me luck!
 
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Old 07-16-2013, 05:48 PM   #22
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good luck
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:33 PM   #23
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Fingers crossed for ya!
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:37 PM   #24
THEREG94   THEREG94 is offline
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Another question: what if the tapping clunking noise is like at the top of the engine?
& after a few minutes of running you smell oil?
 
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Old 07-17-2013, 03:17 PM   #25
ringadingh   ringadingh is offline
 
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It could be that the timing chain jumped a couple teeth, but highly unlikely unless you have removed the tensioners.
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Old 07-17-2013, 04:20 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THEREG94 View Post
Another question: what if the tapping clunking noise is like at the top of the engine?
& after a few minutes of running you smell oil?
Was the red light ON this time? try it once more but before you do have a steel rid handy like the longest extension you own. have it ready to place on the rt ft spark plug tube and the left rear tube. practice listening first, by placing it where you will listen and placing your ear close to the rod, at the bone just ahead of the opening, NOT in you EAR.

rap that rod with a finger nail and hear that as test 1, wrap that rid with a screw drive bit as test 2...... Move the rod to and from the spark plug well so it is in free air space and back to metal with the rod on that bone still.

This is safe there are no moving parts if you slip.

Next start the engine, watch to see if the red light goes out! if it doesn't there is no point to listen where I said.

If by chance you option to anyway, because there is already damaged and a little more damage isn't going to be that big a deal use the rod to listen.


The main point here is to see if cam chains are cutting into the spark plug wells or not. To see if the sounds you hear is the chains hack sawing into these tubes.

If that red light isn't going out, KNOW it that you are running a engine with 0 oil psi, and there is already damaged parts.

My personal opinion is the gear broke before you bought the bike and the seller knew it.

I have this all backwards but you ran the engine again. The safest thing to do is dig into that gear first.

Its a plastic gear and it's a very well known problem. The more you run the engine with no oil pressure the more parts get wrecked. There comes a point where the clunking isn't going to be fixed with a new gear and any oil pressure, as there will be total hell made of the parts inside the engine.

At that point you will need another engine or to rebuild this one. Depending another engine is usually a fair option.
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Old 07-17-2013, 06:02 PM   #27
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Take my word for this. If it needs to be rebuilt it will be cheaper by far to find a donor engine and swap it out. Parts cost for these are horrendous. All said and done I have $2800.00 in getting mine rebuilt. And that was not by a dealer.

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Old 07-17-2013, 06:09 PM   #28
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Does the oil light come on and stay on? This is important to help us. Until we know that we just chasing our tail.

It sounds like the rocker cover gaskets are leaking or possibly the cam plugs are leaking oil; thus the oil smell. Can you see oil weeping from under the chrome covers on the cylinders or from the large plugs at the top of the cylinder walls near the heads?

My 99 would really clatter if it sat for an extended period of time and the lash adjusters loss oil pressure. Also the rocker cover gaskets will commonly fail along the cam chains clearance port in the heads and oil will weep out from under the rocker covers. The gaskets are very thin in this area. Mine failed after 10 years and I really babied that bike.

You can get the deflated lash adjusters to pump up and quit clattering by removing one quart of oil from the crankcase. Replace this oil with oil of the same make but in a heavier weight like straight 40 or 50. On start up the adjusters should quit clattering almost immediately. Later you can change the oil to something of your preference, when just ride the bike more often to avoid this situation.
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Old 07-17-2013, 07:46 PM   #29
THEREG94   THEREG94 is offline
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The oil light does not come on at all when bike is started.I wish you guys was close 2 Chicago!!!
 
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Old 07-17-2013, 07:48 PM   #30
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With just the key On does the red light up then?

That metal in the basket wasn't a good sign.
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