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Old 07-25-2011, 10:05 PM   #16
stevens211   stevens211 is offline
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I put Seafoam in the crankcase and ran for about 10 min. It may be wishfull thinking but I think it may be running better. Will ride to work this week, this may tell me if this is the problem.



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Old 07-30-2011, 12:03 PM   #17
stevens211   stevens211 is offline
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Seafoam did help. Checked the Cam Chain Tensioners and it was about 6/16 below the threaded body. Instruction say if 5/16 below the body then the tensioner is out of travel. I will install the Extenders. When I removed the rear tensioner a small amount of oil was present. I would think this is from the gasket so I will replace it. Thanks for the help...
 
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Old 07-30-2011, 10:02 PM   #18
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Replace the gaskets and the o rings. Good insurance. You only have to do the extenders once so why not get new gaskets and o rings.
 
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Old 07-31-2011, 10:02 AM   #19
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There will be a small amount of oil in the tensioner body, this is normal. Installing the extenders will make the engine a lot quieter, just make sure that when you remove the tensioners, that the engine stays exactly where it is (don't try to move the bike, or hit the "start"button) until your finished.
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Old 07-31-2011, 10:02 AM   #20
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There will be a small amount of oil in the tensioner body, this is normal. Installing the extenders will make the engine a lot quieter, just make sure that when you remove the tensioners, that the engine stays exactly where it is (don't try to move the bike, or hit the "start"button) until your finished.
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Old 07-31-2011, 10:02 AM   #21
VulcanE   VulcanE is offline
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There will be a small amount of oil in the tensioner body, this is normal. Installing the extenders will make the engine a lot quieter, just make sure that when you remove the tensioners, that the engine stays exactly where it is (don't try to move the bike, or hit the "start"button) until your finished.
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Old 07-31-2011, 10:02 AM   #22
VulcanE   VulcanE is offline
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There will be a small amount of oil in the tensioner body, this is normal. Installing the extenders will make the engine a lot quieter, just make sure that when you remove the tensioners, that the engine stays exactly where it is (don't try to move the bike, or hit the "start"button) until your finished.
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Old 08-01-2011, 08:40 AM   #23
macmac   macmac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VulcanE
There will be a small amount of oil in the tensioner body, this is normal. Installing the extenders will make the engine a lot quieter, just make sure that when you remove the tensioners, that the engine stays exactly where it is (don't try to move the bike, or hit the "start"button) until your finished.
Oh dear God no....... Exactly right! Once the chains are free any movement of the crank shaft will put valve timing off, and what happens next won't be pretty.
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Old 08-01-2011, 09:19 AM   #24
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With all of the extender installs that have been done Ive never heard of anyone upsetting the timing. But your right Bill, that would be a real headache for most to have to fix.
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Old 08-01-2011, 09:30 PM   #25
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With no engine movements there will not be any issue. The chain will stay in time.

I have seen first hand what happens when a error is made. If I get there before things go south, I can re-time anything made.

Some cheats i have pulled are to tie a wire to a chain and pull it around, but that type chain uses a master link. I have also pulled cam gears and wired the chain to not drop in, then turned the crank by hand real slow and for feeling any piston valve contact with out a big thunk. Then set up the chain.

I have done a lot on cars ie volvo (belt type) Saab chain, BWM cars and bikes chain. My Yammi 850 has shim under bucket like Saab, and i cheated my way to new shims by pulling the cogs off the cams, and that time the chain slipped, and popped out the extenders.

Since I knew it I was able to fix it with no smashed valves.

Once after a guy doing this vlave work on a BWM 1200 bike with out me with in 1,000 miles, I got to set time up after the fact, but that wasn't great.

He was in a mc club and I was invited toi go see a work shop day they had.

I was asked what I might do, and I checked the valve time which was off a few teeth, and i checked the engine by hand, and found it locked (very bad) I knew he had tested with the start motor (bad idea) and so re-timed i did a cold comp test and got a 0 psi on the right cly.

I was able to start that engine on 1 cly, which everyone there was aware it would be just 1, but it ran. I used to do this for a living, and I wasn't born knowing all this stuff.
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