Register FAQ Upgrade Membership Community Calendar Today's Posts Search
Go Back   Vulcan Bagger Forums > Technical :: Maintenance :: Performance > 1500 & 1600 Nomad

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 03-05-2018, 08:07 AM   #1
ricklee4570   ricklee4570 is offline
Jr. Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Southwest Virginia
Posts: 44
2001 Nomad 1500 Questions

I just purchased a 2001 Nomad 1500 with 29,000 miles. Runs perfect. Has an aftermarket intake, Vance and Hines Exhaust and a Power Commander. One owner, meticulous on oil changes.

1) Since new, he has used Mobile One V-Twin Synthetic 20W50. I live in a climate that averages 60 to mid 80 degrees. Seldom hits 90 plus. The motor is smooth and sounds like a sewing machine. Should I just stick with the 20W50? He lived in the same area, where temps can get low at night in the summer (upper 50's) and I guess it didnt hurt anything (I prefer 10W40)

2) Even though he kept up on the oil changes, he never changed the coolant. I hope this didn't do any long term damage. The overflow coolant is full and a deep dark green. I plan to replace the coolant but Im curious as to the service life of all the hoses?

3) Should I replace the brake fluid? He said he siphoned it out of the reservoir and refilled it one time a few years ago.

3) Is there anything else I need to be aware of with this particular motorcycle? I know he replaced a washer and spring in the clutch (he said it started to slip and it had a wearable plate washer that he replaced and it fixed it). He replaced the front wheel bearing and back brake pads, and the fuel pump.

Thanks for any advice!



Login or Register to Remove Ads
 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2018, 09:41 AM   #2
redjay   redjay is offline
Top Contributor
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Ontario
Posts: 6,978
Hello and Welcome to the forum.

1) I used 10w40 here in Ontario.

2) I would definitely change the coolant, and the hoses.

3) I would replace the brake fluid and the brake hoses.
 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2018, 09:48 AM   #3
BudMan   BudMan is offline
 
BudMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Greenwood, Ark.
Posts: 4,736
First of all Welcome to the forum.
If the coolant has never been changes it needs to be.
I would just drain the radiator and refill it.
The bike is 17 years old so I would carefully inspect the hoses.
I would also change the brake and clutch fluid. Not just refill the reservoir.
If he recently changed the clutch spring you should be good there.
FYI.The u-joints do not have a grease zerk so they cannot be greased as you might think.
I would double check to see that everything is tight.

There are plenty of guys on here far more knowledgeable than I.
I'm sure they will comment before long.
__________________


Dave Jesse
2012 1700 Gray/Black Voyager
2006 1600 Nomad Green/Silver Sold
VBA #1108

2010- Eureka Springs - Antlers - 2011- Maggie Valley - Antlers
2012- Margaritaville Ride - Van Buren - Antlers - 2013- Estes Park - Antlers
2014- Mountain View - Antlers - 2015- Eureka Springs - Antlers
2016- Salem - Antlers - 2017- Eureka Springs - Lake George - Antlers - 2018- Custer - Antlers
 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2018, 09:39 AM   #4
Spondulas   Spondulas is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Dickson, Tennessee
Posts: 110
I agree with Budman's assessment. When checking hoses, visually look for cracks and feel of the hose all over to make sure there aren't any soft spots. Soft spots = weak spots. For clutch fluid, be sure to use DOT 4 fluid since it has a higher temperature rating than the more common DOT 3. Your clutch will behave better on a 100 degree day when you are stuck in stop and go traffic.

As for oil, my experience in dealing with gasoline engines the past 50 years is that regular oil changes are more important than conventional vs. synthetic and that viscosity is important to assure you don't have a dry startup due to excessively thick oil and don't have engine wear due to excessively thin oil on really hot days. 10w40, 15w40 or 20w50 should be OK for your locale. Note that 10w oils are often have friction modifiers added. That helps with gas mileage but might cause clutch slippage. Personally, I use 15w40 Diesel engine oil. The 15 is low enough to give good oil flow when cold and the 40 is high enough to provide protection in the 100+ temps we have here in the summer. A side benefit is a higher zinc level which provides extra wear protection.
 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2018, 09:54 AM   #5
ringadingh   ringadingh is offline
 
ringadingh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada
Posts: 35,387
All good info above, change the fluids, the master cylinders will have a buildup of dirt in the bottoms that will need to be cleaned out. I'd change the brake lines for sure at that age. Also take apart the swing arm and grease the bearings and driveshaft, & U joint. You may need some shims in the swing arm to get rid of any side play. These bikes are known for that over time.
Another important service would be to remove the forks, drain the fluid out and clean the pile of crud that will be stuck in the bottom of the fork tube. Refill with 15 or 20 weight fork oil.
__________________

2002 Nomad aka Bountyhunter
VBA #27
VROC #18951



Login or Register to Remove Ads
 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2018, 01:10 PM   #6
warrbucks222   warrbucks222 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 119
Mine is 5 years old. Oil every 3-5k riding daily = 2x per years. Went from royal purple 10w 40 motorcycle to Mobil 1 racing 10w40, got bad results in cold weather 30-50f. Worse mileage, poor performance shifting, etc. Royal purple for me now. Changing radiator fluid 1st time this spring. Hoses & brake/clutch lines still like new -garage kept home and work. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Tighten everything. I lube bearings every tire change. Thinking swing arm with 32000 miles. Half my clutch is left.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2018, 01:18 PM   #7
Loafer   Loafer is offline
Sr. Contributor
 
Loafer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 18,287
I own a 2001 Nomad and you should check everything, replace the fluids and check the
lines and hoses. Mine has run very nicely with 15w40 syn. I expect to die before this bike does. Good luck with yours.
__________________
Gerry Martineau / 802 VT / VBA #0892 /[email]glmjgm@gmail.com[email]
 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2018, 05:46 PM   #8
DragonLady58   DragonLady58 is offline
Sr. Member
 
DragonLady58's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Somewhere South of Alaska....
Posts: 2,359
Quote:
Originally Posted by ricklee4570 View Post
I just purchased a 2001 Nomad 1500 with 29,000 miles. Runs perfect. Has an aftermarket intake, Vance and Hines Exhaust and a Power Commander. One owner, meticulous on oil changes.

1) Since new, he has used Mobile One V-Twin Synthetic 20W50. I live in a climate that averages 60 to mid 80 degrees. Seldom hits 90 plus. The motor is smooth and sounds like a sewing machine. Should I just stick with the 20W50? He lived in the same area, where temps can get low at night in the summer (upper 50's) and I guess it didnt hurt anything (I prefer 10W40)

2) Even though he kept up on the oil changes, he never changed the coolant. I hope this didn't do any long term damage. The overflow coolant is full and a deep dark green. I plan to replace the coolant but Im curious as to the service life of all the hoses?

3) Should I replace the brake fluid? He said he siphoned it out of the reservoir and refilled it one time a few years ago.

3) Is there anything else I need to be aware of with this particular motorcycle? I know he replaced a washer and spring in the clutch (he said it started to slip and it had a wearable plate washer that he replaced and it fixed it). He replaced the front wheel bearing and back brake pads, and the fuel pump.

Thanks for any advice!
1.--If your summer temp. only gets to 90 on occassions, and you ride ofter, go to 10w40.
If its frequently getting to 90 as your high, go to 15w40.
Can you run 20w50, yes, just make sure you warm your bike up completely before riding and blipping the throttle while cold.
2.--Best to replace fluids when you buy a new bike. all of them! I'd replace coolant, and the hoses also if the least bit hard and/or stiff, regardless. Change your coolant every 2 to 3 years, every 3rd change, I change hoses. If silicon hoses, every 6 years....
3.--I change brake fluid, myself, personally....every 2 years! Brake fluid is easily contaminated just opening to check fluid. Brake fluid will pull the moisture out of the air when you open the cap. Change every 2 years, 3 max!
4.--Keep her clean, keep your filters clean, Install iridium plugs, keep on good tire then SUCK IT UP & RIDE!
__________________

---------------------
Don't start no schit,
there won't be no schit....
*My Sarcasm is directly proportional
to the amount of Stupidity involved*
---------------------
VBA#03239
VROC#37400

VRA
---------------------
2014 Vaquero
2001 Nomad FI
2003 Street Glide (sold)
1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold)
90s BUBF Bobber (sold)
2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold)
1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold)
1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold)
Suck It Up & Ride!
 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2018, 04:00 PM   #9
Rasta   Rasta is offline
 
Rasta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Ankeny Iowa
Posts: 3,697
Welcome from Central Iowa!
__________________
VROC#34321
VBA#01867

2012 NCR Rally Savanna. IL.
2013 National Rally Estes Park, CO
2014 NC/SC Rally in the Ozarks, Mountain View AR
2014 NE US/Eastern Canada Rally,Lincoln NH
2015 VBA/VRA Eureka Springs AR
2015 Antlers Rally, Antlers OK.
2016 SCR Rally Salem MO.
2016 NCR Rally Hillsboro WI
2017 Eureka Springs AR
2017 National Rally Lake George NY
2004 Blue and Silver 1500 Nomad(RIP 9-26-19)
2000 Red and Silver 1500 Nomad
2012 Pearl White 1700 Voyager
 
Reply With Quote
Reply





Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.2
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.