Clutch push rod seal replacement

[SlowShadow]

I am in the middle of replacing my clutch push rod seal.
I have noticed it leaking drops of oil at the kickstand area for the last few days.
It was leaving oil all over the kickstand, lower frame and the bend on my V&H exhaust after riding. Didn't lose a whole lot of oil even after a couple of hundred miles, but too much leaking for sure.
At first I cleaned the area after removing the floorboard, clutch levers and the left side cover to see where it is coming from.
Unfortunately I had not searched for the reason on this forum yet.
At first I tightened the three bolts that hold the clutch slave cylinder.
It may have not been a good idea because it felt as though if I went just a bit tighter I would have stripped the threads ( hopefully I have not already stripped them )
Anyway I thought surely the seal was going to be popped out since I may have caused this by putting in too much oil after the recent oil change I did with Rotella 5W-40.
I seem to always lose a 50/50 bet.
It was still in place but obviously inside the housing so I removed the shaft and proceeded to use a small spring hook tool to pull it out of the engine casing.
No luck. The rubber is very stiff, even hard. It would not fit through the hole no matter how well I lined it up.
I did manage to get it out with the spring hook and a pair of needle nose pliers, but not without tearing up the seal.
Found a ton of great info on here but I wanted to see more pictures before I pulled the slave cylinder off.
It turns out the hardest part of this repair is no bike riding over the Memorial day weekend until I can get a new seal.
I wanted to post some pics for others to see when this comes up on their Nomad.
In the first pic you can see the top of the seal sitting inside the hole at the bottom. It is standing up.
Just an overall view in second pic.
The tools that I am using are in third pic.
The gasket maker/sealer is #2 and says it will stay flexible when cured.
I found a great link that TeachMe put up a few days ago and I thought I would copy it here too.
I can't seem to fix the link ... check out link below on Minst7877's post.
sorry for a new post but hopefully this one will be on topic and not a debate of motorcycle brands

[toogun]

Originally Posted by SlowShadow

I am in the middle of replacing my clutch push rod seal.
I have noticed it leaking drops of oil at the kickstand area for the last few days.
It was leaving oil all over the kickstand, lower frame and the bend on my V&H exhaust after riding. Didn't lose a whole lot of oil even after a couple of hundred miles, but too much leaking for sure.
At first I cleaned the area after removing the floorboard, clutch levers and the left side cover to see where it is coming from.
Unfortunately I had not searched for the reason on this forum yet.
At first I tightened the three bolts that hold the clutch slave cylinder.
It may have not been a good idea because it felt as though if I went just a bit tighter I would have stripped the threads ( hopefully I have not already stripped them )
Anyway I thought surely the seal was going to be popped out since I may have caused this by putting in too much oil after the recent oil change I did with Rotella 5W-40.
I seem to always lose a 50/50 bet.
It was still in place but obviously inside the housing so I removed the shaft and proceeded to use a small spring hook tool to pull it out of the engine casing.
No luck. The rubber is very stiff, even hard. It would not fit through the hole no matter how well I lined it up.
I did manage to get it out with the spring hook and a pair of needle nose pliers, but not without tearing up the seal.
Found a ton of great info on here but I wanted to see more pictures before I pulled the slave cylinder off.
It turns out the hardest part of this repair is no bike riding over the Memorial day weekend until I can get a new seal.
I wanted to post some pics for others to see when this comes up on their Nomad.
In the first pic you can see the top of the seal sitting inside the hole at the bottom. It is standing up.
Just an overall view in second pic.
The tools that I am using are in third pic.
The gasket maker/sealer is #2 and says it will stay flexible when cured.
I found a great link that TeachMe put up a few days ago and I thought I would copy it here too.
http://tearitupfixitrepeat.blogspot....-seal.html?m=1
sorry for a new post but hopefully this one will be on topic and not a debate of motorcycle brands

Those 3 8mm bolts on the slave are to be torqued to 61 in. lbs.

Oh and your link to tearitupfixitrepeat doesn't work.

[minst7877]

Try this one for tear it up fix it.

http://tearitupfixitrepeat.blogspot....-rod-seal.html

DC

[JD Hog]

I had to do this to my bike a few weeks ago.
The hardest part was waiting a week for the part to come in.

[macmac]

How much was too much oil? You may have drowned that seal with too much oil. I don't know how much you need to be that too much since i haven't done that bit yet. When the new seal comes you get the ID are on the case clean and dry. Use a sealer adhesive in the outside edge of that seal and drive it just flush, and no more. A bigger wooden dowel than the hole ID is good for that it can't over drive the seal.

The seal lips should have either moly coat grease inserted in them or cam lube a light white grease used to lube new cams and the like before a new engine ever has oil sent round in the first place.

IF ever a seal is drive in once the push rod. Leave it and the push rod in place! In that case the seal is safer on the rod than somewhere in the bottom of the engine case.

[SlowShadow]

Yep, I should have left it on the shaft but I just had to mess with it.
I seem to enjoy doing everything the hard way.
Luckily I did get it out.
Sorry about the link. Thanks for the help on that Minst.
I think I put about a half quart too much. I added some a couple of days after the oil change because I had a real hard time being patient with the sight glass.
I'm in the process of turning my carport into a master suite so I'm doing everything in the back yard on a grassy hillside.

[macmac]

Working on a lawn can't be fun. Seems to me you could sleep in the grass better then work on the bike on a car port still. LOL That site glass gives people fits, but I have no trouble with it at all. I did a oil change yesterday too. I just add in 3 qts about and stand the bike up, holding the brake with mu right hand and pulling a little on the engine guard with my left. When the guard hits my knee I just hold it there. The bike can't fall away since the side stand is out, and it can't fall on my with my right knee on the crash bar.

The glass was over full too, but I was checking before i fired the engine and I knew it wasn't really full. I set the filler cap in a few turns and start the engine, wait for the red light to go out, wait a little more and shut it off and check the oil again. it was just in the bottom of the glass and with some oil in a 1 qt bottle holding the bike like before add oil left handed, watching the glass.

I am 62 and just all beat up with a bad back and bad hands and that like and yet I find this easy. go figure huh?

[toogun]

Originally Posted by macmac

Working on a lawn can't be fun. Seems to me you could sleep in the grass better then work on the bike on a car port still. LOL That site glass gives people fits, but I have no trouble with it at all. I did a oil change yesterday too. I just add in 3 qts about and stand the bike up, holding the brake with mu right hand and pulling a little on the engine guard with my left. When the guard hits my knee I just hold it there. The bike can't fall away since the side stand is out, and it can't fall on my with my right knee on the crash bar.

The glass was over full too, but I was checking before i fired the engine and I knew it wasn't really full. I set the filler cap in a few turns and start the engine, wait for the red light to go out, wait a little more and shut it off and check the oil again. it was just in the bottom of the glass and with some oil in a 1 qt bottle holding the bike like before add oil left handed, watching the glass.

I am 62 and just all beat up with a bad back and bad hands and that like and yet I find this easy. go figure huh?

Hey mac, here's what I use to level the bike. I have 2 different heights, use 2 the same for level, 1 taller one when the side stand is up on a 2x4 and you might tip it over.

They are simply a piece of 4x4 with a length of 1 1/2" ABS pipe split lengthways and screwed to the top of the 4x4. Countersink the holes for the screws and they won't scratch the bars. Add a wider piece of 1x to the base for stability.

Of course you need a solid floor, doesn't have to be level just cut the 4x4 to the appropriate length to compensate and use the same spot each time.
Bagger bar jack 001.jpg

Bagger bar jack 003.jpg

[macmac]

Good idea but I can be a clutz and i would probably kick that block out and stand there doing a Duh as the bike laid over. If I need the bike dead level i have an Idaho Adapter and a HF lift. it was just there too, for a rear tire (CT 2nd one) and a trailer hitch I bought here a few years ago. I worry about the bike in the loft too and ratchet strap it down. That strap was a bad deal this time doing the wiring for a converter for the trailer. I had to just take breaks and do it in my time. This back makes me that way a clutz, but i manage.

[Vulcan Bill]

I've had to replace this seal 3 times now though I think the 2nd time was due to me not seating it deep enough my 1st run at it. Kawasaki really screwed up on the engineering here and this thing popping out of place is a common problem. My third time around I thoroughly cleaned and degreased the hole including the inside edge, smeared a little silicon sealant inside and out and seated the seal flush with the casing using a socket for a seating tool. I then smeared more silicone over the seal on to the metal. I let it cure for 24 hours before reassembly. That was about 30,000 miles ago and hasn't popped out since. Some other tips. Inspect your push rod for a smooth surface. Mine was rough to the point where it would have worn the new seal out quickly. I smoothed it to almost a chrome like finish using fine steel wool. Also, if your crank case is being over pressurized the seal will feel it and can be pushed out of place. If you have any reason to suspect compression blow by or a plugged crankcase breather this could be why the seal is popping out.