Spark Plug part number

[phenrichs]

Tried searching but no luck.
I am looking for the part number for the cooler ngk plug.
It got hot here yesterday and the old girl started pinging bad. Has been idling rough so last night I cleaned the throttle bodies good and now it idles better and goes from a stop better but still pinging bad.

Thinking maybe plugs?

[phenrichs]

Found it NGK# DPR-7EA-9

[blowndodge]

that won't stop the pinging OP. It MIGHT help minimally. Spark plugs are made in different "heat" ranges depending on bore size, head shap and location. Manufacturers design them to burn just hot enough to keep them clean. Running too "cool" of a plug with cause your bike to carbon up faster and the plug will become dirty faster as well.

This temperature control is acctually the "rate of heat transfer" away from the plug. This is accomplished by all of the following: The insulator nose length. Gas volume around the insulator nose. The materials/construction of the center electrode and porcelain insulator.

So as you can see it doesn't really control much of the burn rate of the mixture.

Nomads ping from overly lean air/fuel mixtures. Some swear their Nomads don't ping on a "cooler" plug but thats just not the function of the plug.

[phenrichs]

So what that tells me, since I did my bafflectomy I started to notice pinging, is that I shoul seriously consider a TFI?

[macmac]

Absolutlely the TFI is in you world right now whehter or not you like the idea..

Doing the baffelectomy you lost back pressure, which is going to bring out ping and cause a loss of power and torque with out either a TFI and or the Cobra modual.

BD is correct about the plugs.... The temps that are cooler are in the ceramics, which are made to carry heat away from the plugs... The spark is not what is cooler or hotter.

[phenrichs]

Speaking of the ceramic.. I pulled my plugs to check them and on one side the ceramic is white and if I rotate it 180 (the side of the electrode) the ceramic is almost black. I have never seen such a drastic difference. Didn't think it was bad, just that I had never seen it before.

So how damaging is the pinging condition? Something that I need to remedy before the 1000 miles of Custer or can it wait?
Can you recommend a good model controller that won't cost a fortune?

Originally Posted by macmac

Absolutlely the TFI is in you world right now whehter or not you like the idea..

Doing the baffelectomy you lost back pressure, which is going to bring out ping and cause a loss of power and torque with out either a TFI and or the Cobra modual.

BD is correct about the plugs.... The temps that are cooler are in the ceramics, which are made to carry heat away from the plugs... The spark is not what is cooler or hotter.

I have been preaching this for a year and no one listens.
On my old Honda Spirit we use to remove the baffles. It would run leaner and be would have to turn the AMS from 2.25 to 3 turns. You debaffled dudes are going burn your valves out at some point.

[phenrichs]

well I actually had intended to do the intake and processor over the next winter but I now have pinging on 91 octane gas on a 70-80 degree day. I know I will need one cause it generally rides 80-100 around here in summer.

[macmac]

Unfortunatly next winter isn't a great option.... Once you commit to a open exhaust you need to adjust fuel. IMO these bikes are overly lean from the factory, and doing anything makes them leaner than that.

IMO just getting a cobra/ TFI set installed with nothing else is the right way, then do the exhaust and then do air in....


The problem with added fuel is no knows what the settings are when everything else is stock because no one ever does it that way.

I have problems with the idea of gutting the goat belly and gutting the stock mufflers, but hey that's just me.

The over all picture is doing the TFI a cadman as duel or as right side only, which is the cheapest and the best way to revert back to stock, and some other exhaust which is pricey....

With a gutted goat and debaffels exhaust I have no idea what works, but some thing does..

IMO that is riding like you friggin stole the bike at full wide open throttle all the time you ride because at that setting with all the air you can get and all the fuel that air needs you don't need any back pressure.

At a lesser RPM you still need some back pressure....

The TFI and Cobra are all anyone needs as a fuel modual... Both are similar, the TFI has one more pot to mess about with... I have never used a plug and Play set up yet, so can't comment.

I like hard wired soldered connections for the least possible problems in the long run... That blue and green wire is the devils own telling it from the green with blue wire by eye! That is the bikes ECU.....

The plus of the fuel modual is apx 10% more usable power which results in a big wide grin......

AND the ability to run 87 oct with NO PING!

In addition I like to take out the ISC 's, the reed valves and replace them with Chucksters "Coasters", with which he includes bolts, and get rid of all the hoses and the vac pod....

[BudMan]

Originally Posted by macmac

I have problems with the idea of gutting the goat belly and gutting the stock mufflers, but hey that's just me.

What sort of problems? I haven't done it, but I was considering it. I'd like to hear what you think.

macmac, thank you. The debaffle sounds fine but if you have done it you will not feel how much back pressure was lost until you stick a set of stock mufflers on. It also runs hotter. Without a debaffle when I shut the bike off, I hear nothing from the pipes. Debaffled and they will crack like corn when I turn it off. Why? Because they are hotter then hell.

[phenrichs]

yup noticed that too. I had been going on the notion that if you do only the exhaust or the intake you won't need a fuel module. It had been stated here by others. Turns out that I do need one. Got a TFI ordered last night. Good deal too $191 + free shipping. Now to find a day to put it on. Hoping it comes this week. Got a charity run next weekend and I would like to do it before then. I have a run this weekend too but it isn't supposed to get warm, won't even make 70 so pinging will be less of a concern.

Thanks for all the info guys.

[macmac]

Originally Posted by BudMan

What sort of problems? I haven't done it, but I was considering it. I'd like to hear what you think.

I have never once gutted the goat bladder, or the stoke mufflers, because there is almost no going back to stock, no matter what..

No one O know of is crazy enough to gut the goat and then try to put all of it back, while putting back the mufflers only requires a pretty good welder, so I could do that with my mig...

So the way I see it another so called custom exhaust is the way to go, either Cobra, V&H and or Road house.

All of these have a form of baffel, and so there is some back pressure.

The problem I have is that gutting the stock set leaves you in an area of unknowns as to what to do next.

IMO all vulcans are too lean, and so doing anything to the engine operation with out adding fuel is a sin. This is my opinion, and I have no dyno to back it up.

On the other hand I think the evidence I need to back this idea up is right here by the guys that have done one or another of things and found they loose power and get ping.

With a Nomad all stock adding a TFI or Cobra fuel modual is a wise idea as I see things, and even if you don't do another thing..

That won't get you any more preformance though, because you are not breathing better.

Adding any so called custom exhaust with out adding fuel is going to be leaning out the bike more as well.

No one bike is an exact match to the next bike either, so some bikes ping on 91 oct stock, and other don't. No ECU is a dead match to what is on 'your' bike, and no 2 TFI units or cobra, and or PC III are a dead on match to any other like unit either.

So no setting will be a dead on match while they will be very close.

IMO to get the most preformance possible with out a dyno, is to do all 3 of the basic addon's at the same time.

That is a custom exhaust, fuel modual, and open intake one way or another.

Then to me it seems best to clean up the messes.. That is best done with Chucksters coasters, a plastic wine bottle cork, a few plastic caps, and getting the mess of hoses off the bike, located up under the gas tank.

Up there is a vacuum pod with a vacuum hose, 2 larger hoses going to the reed valve, that add air into the exhaust to burn off so called un-burned hydrocarbons.

I like the clanky ISC's off and boxed up because i think they make too much noise, so they get gone, and where the hoses were gets capped off too.
(ISC= idle solenoid controll)

I solder well and have for years... wires, maple sugar pans, and car radiators, so to me a soldered on fuel modula beats a plug n play unit hands down for 2 reasons.. 1, A soldered on unit is cheaper dough from the get go, and 2, is there is less connectors open to the air, so less connections to grow mung..

Getting back to gutted pipes, if I were going to do that I would create some kindS of baffels and try out many by seat of the pants testing.

What I really don't like is that goat bladder. I always thought that was for cooking cheeseburgers, and in my driveway is a pine insence burner.

That thing is just plain hot, and uncomfortable to be near, work near, and anyone will admitt it is plain BUTT ugly!

[BudMan]

Makes sense to me. Thanks Mac

macmac for President. :)