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03-20-2012, 04:59 PM | #46 |
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Tamworth New Hampster 06 1600
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Claytyon, I am surprised this hasn't occured before to lots of us. The steps are:
Pull the left side engine cover, and the floor board. Buy a 1/2" Fender Washer and get someone to grind a screw driver cut to remove the window plug on the inner side cover, that shows the F mark and the R mark. Remove that plug and the one in the center too. Pull the spark plugs on the left side only. Be sure the key switch is not ON! With a helper if need be turn the engine by hand with a 17mm socket COUNTER CLOCK WISE, with a finger in #1 plug hole, to 'feel' compression building under yer finger. As that hyappens and the F mark shows in the window it's safe to pull the tensioner. Do just that tensioner / extender work. Once that is done, and you are ready to do cly #2 turn the engine CCW again, this time feeling #2 for compression. Note: you will see the F mark and the R mark appear everyother time, but that time there won't be compression . When there has been no compression and the F or R mark show in the window, IT IS NOT SAFE to pull the tensioners!
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03-20-2012, 09:41 PM | #47 |
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Location: Everett, Washington
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I feel like I really dodged a bullet here. I had mine done at about 30k (45k now). I had the guys at my MC shop do my cam chain extenders. Dropped them off a set of extenders (from Chuckster) and a printed copy of the directions on how to change them out. All went well. When I picked up the bike, they gave me the old pieces they had removed. I'm shocked that given how many people have done this mod that something like this has not happened before...!
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Kris Olsen VBA #0691 2017 HD Ultra Limited Low 2013 Victory Cross Country Tour 2012 1700 Vulcan Voyager 2008 1600 Vulcan Nomad 1997 Vulcan 800 Classic "Growing old is mandatory, but growing up is optional" Custer 2009|Kalispell 2010|Cortez 2010|Crescent City 2011|Kanab 2012|Canmore 2012|Estes Park 2013|Orofino 2014|Lake Tahoe 2015|Red Lodge 2016 |
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03-20-2012, 10:16 PM | #48 |
So, ignorance really is bliss......
What I do know is that mine are done. Have been since last spring.
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Idaho (aka Curmudgeon) Blue Knights Idaho III VBA #110 VROC #24864 IBA #49753 2007 Nomad 86,000 miles Bud Smalley Pocatello, Idaho Idaho Jack Adapter |
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03-23-2012, 03:23 PM | #49 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Tamworth New Hampster 06 1600
Posts: 12,484
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Quote:
All it takes to go wrong, is to have the valve springs push the cam either way, to 'settle the cam. This settling happens to car techs when timing belts and or valve lash must be set, BUT the chains usually can't hop any teeth, even when the chain is pretty worn. The cam gear teeth are the smallest teeth I have ever seen so far, on any vehicals. I have no idea if the valves can hit the pistons or not..... Some engines can not no matter what. My B 21 Volvo Engine can not no matter what. The next B 30 engine will smash and bash metal to hell in a hand basket when a timing belt breaks, or when an error is made and the engine is not turned by hand to find out IF there has been a error made. I do suspect the Vulcans are smash and bash engines if the time gets out bad enough. Bdawg might know.....
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06 1600 Nomad Just call me Mac molon labe come and get it |
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04-13-2012, 11:52 AM | #50 |
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Lee, New Hampshire
Posts: 568
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Well, all the assorted gaskets, o-rings, plugs and miscellaneous parts are now here, and everything is cleaned up. Tomorrow, Mac is coming back down for the day and we begin putting things back together. We'll just have to see how far we can get. Hoping there isn't any hidden damage that we won't find out about until it is all back together and I start it. I'm pretty comfortable doing mechanical work, but got to admit, pulling that rocker case off is a little scary. At least we didn't need to pull the head or change the chain guide. Glad that Mac is local.
Attached are a few pictures of the cam chain and related assemblies. Pretty easy to see how valve settling might cause the camshaft to turn and slip the chain when the tensioner is out, as there really isn't anything preventing it. As Mac noted, the teeth on that gear are pretty small. BTW, I also see now why Mac doesn't recommend 20W50 oil on these bikes. Those screens that feed the HLA's really are tiny. Anyway, wish us luck.
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04-13-2012, 12:27 PM | #51 |
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Peoples Republic of New York State
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And there are guys on here who wonder why I take my bike to the dealer for service. I asked my mechanic if he had heard of the chain extenders and he said he had put in a few. I liked hearing that.
As I said earlier, if i lived anywhere near mac he would be doing all my mechanical work.
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Tim "TC" Conley VBA #9 2011 Victory Kingpin mine 2013 Victory Boardwalk -hers [LEFT][COLOR=#000000] [SIZE=4] |
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04-14-2012, 09:32 PM | #52 | |
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Lee, New Hampshire
Posts: 568
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Quote:
Anyway, after a solid eight hours of work today, we hit the starter and she fired right up. Mac ran it up to 5K rpm without a miss. Sounded nice and smooth. Still have a bit of work to do with cable and harness routing, trim, checking torque, installing the intake, etc, but it is mostly back together and running. Time to celebrate. Thanks again Mac!!!!!
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Tom Maziarz (tomm) VBA #00766 2008 Kawasaki Nomad (Black) 1978 Suzuki GS750EC (My son is riding it now.) 2017: National Rally - Lake George, NY 2016: NE US / E Canada Rally - Mont Tremblant, QC 2015: National Rally - Eureka Springs, AR 2014: NE US / E Canada Rally - Lincoln, NH 2012: NE US / E Canada Rally - Wellsboro, PA |
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04-15-2012, 03:36 AM | #53 |
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Location: Everett, Washington
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Wow....great news...!
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Kris Olsen VBA #0691 2017 HD Ultra Limited Low 2013 Victory Cross Country Tour 2012 1700 Vulcan Voyager 2008 1600 Vulcan Nomad 1997 Vulcan 800 Classic "Growing old is mandatory, but growing up is optional" Custer 2009|Kalispell 2010|Cortez 2010|Crescent City 2011|Kanab 2012|Canmore 2012|Estes Park 2013|Orofino 2014|Lake Tahoe 2015|Red Lodge 2016 |
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04-15-2012, 07:03 AM | #54 |
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Location: Sydney, Australia
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Sure is great news!! Though I am interested in what oil Mac recommends if not 20W50. Most guys here in Aus use Motul 5100 (10W50). The oils you guys in the US always talk about for your 1600s are not available here.
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04-15-2012, 08:03 AM | #55 |
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Lee, New Hampshire
Posts: 568
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I'll let Mac fill in the blanks next time he is able to get on line, but I know he thinks the 50 weight starves the HLA's. The filter screens are really fine as well as the ports that feed them. So nothing more than 40. I personally use the Rotella T6 synthetic, which is 5W40.
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Tom Maziarz (tomm) VBA #00766 2008 Kawasaki Nomad (Black) 1978 Suzuki GS750EC (My son is riding it now.) 2017: National Rally - Lake George, NY 2016: NE US / E Canada Rally - Mont Tremblant, QC 2015: National Rally - Eureka Springs, AR 2014: NE US / E Canada Rally - Lincoln, NH 2012: NE US / E Canada Rally - Wellsboro, PA |
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04-15-2012, 08:17 AM | #56 | |
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Quote:
Mobil 1 10w-40 motorcycle oil works well.
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04-15-2012, 08:50 AM | #57 |
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It's a shame Bill can't get on more. Hi Bill! Hope everything is Ok.
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04-15-2012, 09:42 AM | #58 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada
Posts: 35,387
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Thats great that Bill got you back up and running. Its rare that it will jump a tooth, but at least there is no damage. I'm guessing that the valves cant hit the pistons on our bikes.
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04-15-2012, 10:26 AM | #59 |
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Wow after reading this thread I have to agree that Mac is one heck of a mechanic! Nice work, and I think it is very cool to help to one of our members.
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