What gas to use

[macmac]

Thanks Dan and Ells,... I can commonly get 78,. 89. 91, and 93 in NH, but right now it is 87 or nothing. A very few paces have 87 and 91..

Ells the comp ratio won't change. That is a in theory number of displacement. Actutal compression may change with wear and tear.

For kicks about what is the cost of a gallon of 85 oct? I wonder if it might be less than 87 here?

[ells]

Originally Posted by macmac

Ells the comp ratio won't change. That is a in theory number of displacement. Actutal compression may change with wear and tear.

Yeah, the stated ratio is based on geometry but it is the final pressure that counts, and changes with wear.

For kicks about what is the cost of a gallon of 85 oct? I wonder if it might be less than 87 here?

I'm seeing it for $3.41 today, is usually about $.10 less than 87.

[macmac]

Yeah they got that 10 cents thing going then out there, just like here most of the time. I didn't see it but the local news said 87 could be found for $2.92 today. Not near me I guess.

[VulcanE]

Hey Mac, I tuned my TFI this morning by their recommended procedure...


Tuning
Green LED pot(1st): Air fuel mixture screw adjustment. With TFI installed and the
bike fully warmed up, screwdriver in hand, locate the green LED and the pot right
below it. Using the throttle raise the RPM to a high idle or about 2000-RPM. Once
there, slowly turn the green pot clockwise from the 1:00 position (off) until you
achieve the highest RPM and smoothest running sound (like a mixture screw on a
carburetor). You should find the best setting between 2:30 and 4:00 o’clock. If you
turn the green pot clockwise and the engine does not accept anymore fuel (RPMs
drop when adding fuel) you may have one or more of these problems (See
troubleshooting Motorcycle).
Yellow LED pot(2nd): Acceleration fuel adjustment (bottom to mid range fuel).
Anytime the yellow LED is on, this pot is adding fuel. In neutral raise the RPM
slowly up through the mid range and see no yyellow LED.However, opening the
throttle quickly from idle you “should” see the yellow LED come on.
Fine tuning: Start with the suggested setting and then add ½ clock position at a time
until the bike says too much (hesitation) then back off 1 clock position,if worse go
opposite direction. If no yellow LED there is not enough load to turn it on. At that
point the street or dyno will be able to show the difference. The yellow pot adds its
fuel below 70%of maximum RPM.
Red LED pot(3rd): Main jet fuel adjustment (top end fuel). It adds about 2.5
points of main jet fuel with every clock position. For example, one clock position is
the same as 150 to 152.5 main jets.
Fine tuning: Start with the suggested setting and then add ½ clock position at a time
until the bike says too much (hesitation) then back off 1 clock position,if worse go
opposite direction. The red pot adds its fuel above 70%of maximum RPM.
RPM pot(4th): All V-twins. Sets the RPM that the red pot fuel (main jet fuel)
turns on. One clock position is roughly 1000 RPM. This pot should be set to about
70%of redline. (For example: Suzuki M109R redlines at 5800 RPM and 4000 is
roughly 70%of redline which would be 4:00 o’clock). On “some” dual plug systems
(Kawasaki, Suzuki) you will need to double the RPM clock position to have the same
results.Verify setting by raising the RPM in neutral, look for green and yellowLED
to shut off and the red LED to turn on at the chosen RPM or refer to suggested
settings if you have no tachometer.

My new settings are.........

Pot-1 = 3:30
Pot-2 = 4:00
Pot-3 = 1:00
Pot-4 = 8:00

They were.....

Pot-1 =2:00
Pot-2 = 2:30
Pot-3 = 1:00
Pot-4 = 8:30

The air temp is 72 degrees, and I done it with regular gas. It does run a whole lot stronger but will still ping like crazy on hard acceleration around 3500 RPM. I don't know what the mileage will be like, it'll be the weekend before I can ride enough to check it. Will try the mid-grade and see how it does.