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Old 09-14-2010, 03:48 PM   #16
ringadingh   ringadingh is offline
 
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Swing Arm Bolt


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Originally Posted by cactusjack
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ringadingh
You may be able to weld a large nut onto the head of the bolt you rounded off, and then heat the other end of the bolt where the threads are holding it near the driveshaft. With an impact gun or a long johnson bar you should be able to break it loose.
"Johnson Bar"? Please explain...
A Johnson bar is a breaker bar. I have a really big Johnson for those really tough jobs. ;)
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Old 09-14-2010, 03:55 PM   #17
ringadingh   ringadingh is offline
 
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Swing Arm Bolt


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Originally Posted by petechewy
Hi Ringadingh,

the bolt is not siezed in the thread, it's siezed in the roller bearings because if I lift the swing arm up and push it down again the bolt is stationary so it must be siezed in the bearings.

regards
Pete
If it was seized in the bearings you wouldn't be able to move the swingarm at all. When the bolt is installed it doesn't move at all, just the swingarm moves.
It may be seized in the centre spacer, but I think you would still be able to turn the bolt a little bit. Either pour the penetrant to it and try to ease it up, or a torch, which is what I would probably use. I still think the threads may be seized at the end of the bolt.
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Old 09-14-2010, 05:20 PM   #18
macmac   macmac is offline
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Swing Arm Bolt

STOP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Get a dremel tool and clean up what you have now, then hammer on a socket, preferably a impact socket and weld that on right thru the square drive hole, and make sure that socket IS 1/2 inch drive. Don't fubar up the weld and have that socket clean.

Drilling is useless, the threads are in the swing arm on the far side, about a foot away!!!!!!!!

THE OTHER OPTION is to cut the bolt in two places, which will be a ROYAL Bitch, and can probably only be done with a wiz wheel, and will probably wreck paint.

Drilling the head of the bolt off is plain useless, and if you do you will waste time finding out why.
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Old 09-14-2010, 05:22 PM   #19
macmac   macmac is offline
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Swing Arm Bolt

BEFORE you do any welding DISCONNECT THE BATTERY GROUND CABLE!

If you don't have a lot of air and impact guns, STOP and get tools ot trailer the bike to some shop.
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Old 09-15-2010, 09:29 PM   #20
cocheese72   cocheese72 is offline
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Swing Arm Bolt

Well I am glad I went to the trouble of greasing my swing arm bearings when I changed the tire, if this is what happens.
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Old 09-15-2010, 10:53 PM   #21
cactusjack   cactusjack is offline
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Swing Arm Bolt


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ringadingh
Quote:
Originally Posted by cactusjack

"Johnson Bar"? Please explain...
A Johnson bar is a breaker bar. I have a really big Johnson for those really tough jobs. ;)
I've never heard a breaker bar referred to as a Johnson Bar.
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Old 09-16-2010, 06:52 AM   #22
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Swing Arm Bolt

I'm with Stewdogg, I wouldn't try everything before drilling it out. You need to be very acurate with your drilling. Too much chance of error. Be sure and let us know what the outcome is.
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Old 09-16-2010, 10:47 AM   #23
macmac   macmac is offline
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Swing Arm Bolt

Where is he? Still driling a 1 foot long bolt out I guess. If drilling is the way then that will take a serious long drill, and all the way to the far threads.

I maintain it can't be drilled that far with out the bike mounted on a lathe. And then it would take about a 2 weeks.

Just drilling the head off won't let the swing arm slide a foot to the side either!

Drilling is a total waste of time.

.................................................. .................................................. .

There are 2 ways.

1 clean up whats left and weld a good impact socket to the bolt head. Then with a acr welder set to max amps the ground clamped on the threaded end some how or close dead short the welder to heat the threads near to red hot after penatrating oil had been soaking for no less than 3 days on the threads, perhaps having torn the right side seal out somehow and flooding the bolts and spacers with oil.

Then with a lot of air and a good impact gun turn that bolt out.

Method 2. Clear away the rear tire, all the periferials, and with a wizz wheel cut the long bolt in two places. Then pull the swing arm down, un-doing the brake line so the swing arm can be benched. Drill out what's left of the threaded end and drive out the rest of the long bolt, which is proabably rusted to all 3 spacers.

Then rebuild the whole bloomin thing with 2 new bearings, 3 new spacers, and a new long bolt.
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Old 09-16-2010, 11:40 AM   #24
cocheese72   cocheese72 is offline
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Swing Arm Bolt


Quote:
Originally Posted by macmac
Where is he? Still driling a 1 foot long bolt out I guess. If drilling is the way then that will take a serious long drill, and all the way to the far threads.

I maintain it can't be drilled that far with out the bike mounted on a lathe. And then it would take about a 2 weeks.

Just drilling the head off won't let the swing arm slide a foot to the side either!

Drilling is a total waste of time.

.................................................. .................................................. .

There are 2 ways.

1 clean up whats left and weld a good impact socket to the bolt head. Then with a acr welder set to max amps the ground clamped on the threaded end some how or close dead short the welder to heat the threads near to red hot after penatrating oil had been soaking for no less than 3 days on the threads, perhaps having torn the right side seal out somehow and flooding the bolts and spacers with oil.

Then with a lot of air and a good impact gun turn that bolt out.

Method 2. Clear away the rear tire, all the periferials, and with a wizz wheel cut the long bolt in two places. Then pull the swing arm down, un-doing the brake line so the swing arm can be benched. Drill out what's left of the threaded end and drive out the rest of the long bolt, which is proabably rusted to all 3 spacers.

Then rebuild the whole bloomin thing with 2 new bearings, 3 new spacers, and a new long bolt.
I think he just went and bought a new bike.
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Old 09-16-2010, 11:50 AM   #25
macmac   macmac is offline
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Swing Arm Bolt

Oh, well that isn't any option I would have.
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Old 09-16-2010, 02:01 PM   #26
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Swing Arm Bolt

I had to buy a lug nut extractor set from sears sized for 22 mm & used the long breaker bar & then i purchased a new bolt from the dealer about 40 for the bolt & 50 for the extractor set - never seized the crap out of the new one - good luck i think the extracto was for 7/8 but was in a set
 
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:59 AM   #27
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Swing Arm Bolt

I'm sure glad I did the swing arm service last winter! Listen to Mac and have patience.
 
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Old 09-21-2010, 02:52 AM   #28
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Swing Arm Bolt

Hi Guys,
just a note to keep you updated on progress with the swing arm bolt. I've cut the bolt in two places and removed the swing arm. The threaded end of the bolt unscrewed easily from the end near the drive shaft. The bolt is still in place in the frame, but now I am able to drill from both sides. I have been an engineer all my life and have never experienced anything siezed as hard as this. Will post an update when completed.
Thanks to all who took the time to help.
best regards
Pete
 
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Old 09-21-2010, 07:31 AM   #29
ringadingh   ringadingh is offline
 
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Swing Arm Bolt

Now that you have the swingarm out, perhaps you could soak it with penetrating oil and try to have the piece of the bolt pressed out. If that doesn't work you may end up buying a swingarm
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Old 09-21-2010, 09:20 AM   #30
macmac   macmac is offline
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Swing Arm Bolt

Evidently the spacers are rusted to the frame and to the long bolt, what's left of it.

If you have air, an air hammer, use it.

With my 06 at 8,500 miles I needed a new rear tire, in the doing I did a swingarm service and found my spacers were rusting. I found there was NOT close to enough grease on the spacers the long bolt and the bearings.

With air you may be able to break the spacers loose going both ways.

It may be you need to heat the frame too, I can't say for sure.

Get as much penatrant oil in there as possible. Give it time.
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