Pulling a trailer with a Nomad

[nomadpilot]

Anyone pull a camper trailer with their Nomad? We have a Bunkhouse camper that weighs 325 lb. empty. Add another100--150 lb. for our stuff and it's pushing 500 lbs. down the road. I'd like to hear from anyone who pulls a camper with their Nomad.

[coacha]

I pull a Bunkhouse also. I have a '99 and pulled my trailer out to South Dakota. It handled well. Just have to watch tongue weight and weight distribution of the load. Remember you need more room to make lane changes, stop, etc. Also, your gas mileage will go down quite a bit.

[clayton]

WOW.....didn't know it could do that... :)

[Cajunrider]

I don't pull a bunkhouse but have been pulling an Alumalite which weighs 175# empty. I have pulled it to South Dakota from here, to Tennessee, Arkansas, and Oklahoma. All separate trips. The Nomad 1600 does well with plenty of power even in hilly country. All of this trailering was riding 2 up. Good luck and see Chuckster for a hitch if you don't already have one. He builds a great product for a great price.

[skeeter]

thanks for the pic Coach

[cactusjack]

I also pulled my homebuilt trailer from Phoenix to Custer and back last summer. Mine was about 300 pounds loaded. Pulled it up and over the Continental Divide several times, including over 11,000 feet at the Eisenhower Tunnel. The 1600 had more than enough to pull that. I'd guess 500 pounds would probably be close to the limit, though. That's about 60% of the bike's weight.

[bulldog]

I have pulled this trailer for a total of 10,000 mile about 350lbs 2 up and you hardly even know it is there just make sure it is loaded right, you don't want to much tongue weight. 1600 has more than enough power even though the mountains.

[nomad561]

I don't have a camper(want one evetually) but I do pull a fiberglass cargo trailer with my Nomad. I have only been pulling it for about a year but I haven't had any problems so far. Correct loading and compensation for extra length and weight is key to pulling a trailer.

[rewindgy]

Been pullin both tent and cargo trailers since 1987 - some bikes pull them better / some worse! 1600 Nomad in stock form is alittle gutless - the usual mod's - air intake / fuel processor - exhaust system and then it works quite well. The biggest thing to learn is how to pack your trailer! Too much weight on the rear and you are an accident looking for a place to happen! Too much air in the tires, same thing. A little common sense and you can have years of enjoyment out of your trailer - one lapse of stupidity and the trailer can be your worst nightmare!

[rewindgy]

Forgot pictures:
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...gis2008087.jpg
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...ictures043.jpg

[clayton]

Well let me ask the obvious...
In this post I see mention of:
1: Tongue weight..
2: Equalized weight in the trailer..
3: Air pressure..
So I am good with number 2 but could someone help me out with 1 and 3?
What is the "recomended" tounge weight on the hitch for a Nomad?
Air pressure relating to the Trailer Wheels or Bike or Both?
I too am considering venturing into trailering and would love to learn as much as I can.
Thanks

[nomadpilot]

Originally Posted by rewindgy

Been pullin both tent and cargo trailers since 1987 - some bikes pull them better / some worse! 1600 Nomad in stock form is alittle gutless - the usual mod's - air intake / fuel processor - exhaust system and then it works quite well. The biggest thing to learn is how to pack your trailer! Too much weight on the rear and you are an accident looking for a place to happen! Too much air in the tires, same thing. A little common sense and you can have years of enjoyment out of your trailer - one lapse of stupidity and the trailer can be your worst nightmare!

Thanx for the pix. Looks good with the trailer attached. The 1700 Nomad supposedly has 20% more power than the 1600. Don't know how that really works out, but I reckon I'll dind out the first time I hook up the Bunkhouse. Fortunately I don't ride 2-up, so the only extra weight will be the camper, and I hope I don't need to start adding stuff like a Power Commander, air filter, exhaust system, etc. I'll know this Spring.

CajunRider mentioned Chuckster for a trailer hitch, but didin't provide a website. Can anyone help me with that?

[nomadpilot]

Originally Posted by Clayton

Well let me ask the obvious...
In this post I see mention of:
1: Tongue weight..
2: Equalized weight in the trailer..
3: Air pressure..
So I am good with number 2 but could someone help me out with 1 and 3?
What is the "recomended" tounge weight on the hitch for a Nomad?
Air pressure relating to the Trailer Wheels or Bike or Both?
I too am considering venturing into trailering and would love to learn as much as I can.
Thanks

#1.) Recommended tongue weight, as far as I am able to determine should be approximately 10% of the bike's weight. However, it's better to bias a little weight forward rather than to the rear, because too much weight to the rear of the trailer can cause the tail to "wag the dog," so to speak.

#3.) Consult the trailer manufacturer's recommended tire pressure for the trailer you have. The manufacturer's recoommended tire pressure for the Bunkhouse is 50 psi. I like to run it less than that because it really accelerates tire wear in center of the tire. Too little results in softer ride and less trailer bounciing up and down, but wears out the edges of the tread very quickly.

Also, make sure, when towing a trailer with a motorcycle, that your rear tire is aired up to around 40 psi and your shocks are aired up as if you were carrying a rear seat passenger. There are a lot of high forces the bike's frame has to endured when towing a trailer, as a motorcycle is not made with trailer towing in mind. You want as much in your favor as possible.

Towing a trailer isn't difficult, as the bike feels like there's nothing there. You will notice slower acceleration and longer braking distance, but during regular riding, I have to keep checking the mirrors to remind myself there's a trailer there. At least that was my experience towing the trailer with the Goldl Wing.

Hope this helps.

[cactusjack]

Originally Posted by nomadpilot

#1.) Recommended tongue weight, as far as I am able to determine should be approximately 10% of the bike's weight. However, it's better to bias a little weight forward rather than to the rear, because too much weight to the rear of the trailer can cause the tail to "wag the dog," so to speak.

#3.) Consult the trailer manufacturer's recommended tire pressure for the trailer you have. The manufacturer's recoommended tire pressure for the Bunkhouse is 50 psi. I like to run it less than that because it really accelerates tire wear in center of the tire. Too little results in softer ride and less trailer bounciing up and down, but wears out the edges of the tread very quickly.

Also, make sure, when towing a trailer with a motorcycle, that your rear tire is aired up to around 40 psi and your shocks are aired up as if you were carrying a rear seat passenger. There are a lot of high forces the bike's frame has to endured when towing a trailer, as a motorcycle is not made with trailer towing in mind. You want as much in your favor as possible.

Towing a trailer isn't difficult, as the bike feels like there's nothing there. You will notice slower acceleration and longer braking distance, but during regular riding, I have to keep checking the mirrors to remind myself there's a trailer there. At least that was my experience towing the trailer with the Goldl Wing.

Hope this helps.

I think 10% of the bike's weight (~80 lbs) is a little too much for the tongue weight. I've always read it should be 10% of the trailer weight (25-40 lbs or so). I bought a hanging 50 lb scale at Harbor Freight to check the tongue weight. It is checked at hitch height.

Really, once you get the trailer rolling from a dead stop, it isn't bad. You need to leave extra distance for stopping, stay in the center of your lane, and watch your turns, especially into driveways, etc. When it's moving you forget it's even back there. Bike trailers are easy to jack knife when backing, so I always try to pull through whenever possible, to minimize backing.

[rewindgy]

1) tongue weight - smaller trailers with light load around 25 - 30 lbs measured with scale / heavy trailers loaded to nuts 35 - 50 ish - I've had mine as high as 60 lbs - too much but what are you gonna do.
3) air pressure - rear bike tire must be at maximum rated pressure ( they do take punishment) Trailer tires - I have seen over the years way too many people over inflate the trailer tires! The trailer tires come with an max pressure rating on the sidewall ( please note that is for the maximum rated load the tire can take!!!) I don't know of anyone who can load a trailer to that weight and still pull it!! I run anywheres from 18 - 25 lbs max. Now I do have Michelin radials on this trailer but still managed to get over 60,000 km outa the last set of tires. Since these trailers do not weigh all that much and you can't carry 1000 lbs you need to let the tires flex a little to stop them from hopping and wagging the tail. So what if you need to buy tires more often - it's way better than having a trailer that gets uncontrolable on rough roads or in a panic situation! Also, when loaded the front of the trailer needs to be canted forward some so when you hit a bump ( and you will) the trailer tongue will not lift the back of the bike up and unload the rear wheel aggressively - this is not fun!! Not trying to scare anyone, just advisement!