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Old 01-17-2016, 01:41 AM   #16
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I can assure all that my Cobras sound nothing like that Youtube cut. As another example, I have a Thunderheader 2-1 on my Dyna and it sounds great but nothing like the tinny sound in this video.



My Cobra true duals have a nice low rumble at idle and really come awake upon acceleration, albeit louder than I had expected. One can make them louder by pulling the baffles and removing the packing. The fit/finish is flawless. I've also heard V&Hs on Nomads and they to me are just a bit too loud as they are on Harleys. Just personal preference. I don't know anyone who has V&H that are displeased with them. Like Cobras, they are a quality product.
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Old 01-17-2016, 08:31 AM   #17
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Hi Tony , just thought I'd throw this in. I've been running V&H on my bike since day 1 and thought the sound was great. Last spring I decided to wrap the baffles with 1/2 " stove rope , then the original packing over that. I wrapped wire around the packing so it would be tight around the entire baffle. Man , what a difference. Very low rumble at idle and much better sound when accelerating. Still fairly loud but really nice. I found threads on this in the forum. Some of the guys on here have done that and love it.

Good luck with your rebuild and enjoy the ride !!
 
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Old 01-17-2016, 09:53 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redjay View Post
Are you aware of the quality issues V&H have had with their pipes for the Vulcans ?

Header pipes cracking on the rear cylinder ?
man ive been hearing more and more about this. its changing my mind. thinking maybe cobras now. i dont like problems :/ ill talk to my expert here and see what he says.
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Old 01-17-2016, 10:02 AM   #19
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Awesome, you got the same bike as me, and pretty much the same taste!
Good looking ride :)
black and chrome!!
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Old 01-17-2016, 01:43 PM   #20
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Quote:
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,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Last spring I decided to wrap the baffles with 1/2 " stove rope,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
I did mine with 3/4 stove after reading about you doing yours. I also like the sound with the rope but I also gained some noticeable low end torque.
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Old 01-17-2016, 01:49 PM   #21
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explain how you do that, kinda interesting
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Old 01-17-2016, 01:52 PM   #22
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ive heard of the pipes cracking on the back head pipe,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,.
On a personal note, I think the best way to prevent the cracking is to install the header to proper torque at the flange but leave the clamp at the pipe/muffler loose through a heat cycle. When you slid the muffler onto the pipe it has been forced into place. If you tighten the clap it remain in a bind. Start the engine and let it relax the tension through the heat and vibrations.
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Old 01-17-2016, 02:05 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronald View Post
explain how you do that, kinda interesting
Speaking of the rope? Make sure it is stove rope/gasket material. Remove the baffle and use a small piece of steel wire to secure the rope to the baffle where the perforated part starts. Wrap it tightly the length of the baffle. When I got to the end I used a long piece of steel wire, tying to the rope, wrapped it a few times around the end then staying on top of the rope wrapping back to the other end as to where it wire would not fall between rope laps. Tied it to the first short piece of wire at the start. Made for a tie wrap. Still sound great just a deeper rumble.
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There is no substitute for laminar flow in which a helmet is the primary disturbance.

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Old 01-17-2016, 05:47 PM   #24
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now that I know, I wont be able to do that. I had to weld the end of my vance and hines pipes at the end because they were rattling and breaking my heat shield clamps. unless I cut the weld out and do it but I think that's a little much. thanks for the info
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Old 01-17-2016, 10:40 PM   #25
Chuck A.   Chuck A. is offline
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The wrap was done on the V&H Baggers. Your Sig says V&H Long Shots. Major difference in pipe and baffle size.
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RUSSELL DAYLONG SEATS ROCK!!
DAMMIT TOOL:
Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs

There is no substitute for laminar flow in which a helmet is the primary disturbance.

SO MANY ROADS,
SO LITTLE TIME.

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Old 01-18-2016, 12:37 PM   #26
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Has anyone done this on Cobras? I might give it a try. Whenever I've wrapped baffles on other bike's I always used SS wire. I bought a spool years ago and it has proven handy for use on different applications.
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Old 01-22-2016, 09:03 AM   #27
Chuck A.   Chuck A. is offline
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Yes. I use stainless steel wire also
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2003 1500 NOMAD FI sold 6/19
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RUSSELL DAYLONG SEATS ROCK!!
DAMMIT TOOL:
Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs

There is no substitute for laminar flow in which a helmet is the primary disturbance.

SO MANY ROADS,
SO LITTLE TIME.
 
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Old 01-22-2016, 02:10 PM   #28
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V&H

Quote:
Originally Posted by tony View Post
man ive been hearing more and more about this. its changing my mind. thinking maybe cobras now. i dont like problems :/ ill talk to my expert here and see what he says.
Tony one mod I did on my Vance and Hines baggers was remove the baffles which they are about 10 or 11 inches long cut the center portion out with the perforations, weld it back together and now the whole thing is about 5 in. long quite a difference in sound a NICE RUMBLE. all my friends were jealous including Harley guys I didn't even know, I called them my sleepers the more you pured on the juice the louder it got.

with no baffle at all sounds like pure shit

and the cracking issue is an installation problem that can be avoided
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Last edited by skullbagger; 01-22-2016 at 02:14 PM.
 
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Old 01-22-2016, 02:13 PM   #29
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Tony one mod I did on my Vance and Hines baggers was remove the baffles which they are about 10 or 11 inches long cut the center portion out with the perforations, weld it back together and now the whole thing is about 5 in. long quite a difference in sound a NICE RUMBLE. all my friends were jealous including Harley guys I didn't even know, I called them my sleepers the more you pured on the juice the louder it got.

with no baffle at all sounds like pure shit
I'd be really interested to know the details on how to do this.
Much obliged...
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Old 01-22-2016, 02:25 PM   #30
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I'd be really interested to know the details on how to do this.
Much obliged...
its very easy, take out the baffle, its 10in long or so, it a tube right ! take a band saw or hack saw and cut the center portion out that contain all the perforations and weld the two halves back together.put them in a piece of channel iron during the welding process so they wont draw out of square. now its typically a solid tube from end to end. install in the bike and enjoy.
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