99 Nomad starved for fuel?

TexasRich · 11-30-2017, 08:30 PM

Hi gang. Been using the forum for a bit now as I work on a 1999 Vulcan Nomad that I picked up last week. Here is the background and the issue:

I bought this from a guy who took it as a trade for his services 4 years ago. He let it set up inside his garage for the last 3 years or so. I have flushed the fuel tank out, replaced the petcock, fuel filter and cleaned the carb out 3 times to try and get everything out. Changed all fluids and spark plugs. New air filter element as well.

It will start up right away and warm up quickly. When I take off, there is a bog/hesitation then it catches and runs ok. But there is no top end at the end of each gear. Not sure of the rpms, but it’s not terribly high. I can get to about 50 in fourth gear and it starts to sputter and hesitate, as if starved for fuel.

The last time I cleaned the carb, I tried adjusting the air/fuel screw on the bottom of the carb. It was originally set at 2 1/2 turns out and I adjusted it progressively out to 3 1/4 but there was no change. Have returned it to 2 1/2. Replaced the fuel filter again in case it was blocked and removed and checked the petcock to see if it was blocked. It was not, but I flushed it out anyway.

Any ideas? Sorry for the longish post, but I figured the more info the better.
I feel like I’m missing something simple, but not seeing it.

**Sabre-t** · 11-30-2017, 11:37 PM

I'm not familiar with the carburetion of your bike, but did you check the rubber boots on the needle slides for leaks, the height of the float valve and the condition of the float needle when you were cleaning the carb? From your description, I would suspect a small leak in the needle slide.

radco · 12-01-2017, 07:26 AM

First WELCOME
As mentioned check the carb boots. Also check you air filter and exhaust ! After sitting a long time little critters like to build a home there :) Have you balanced the carbs ?
a couple home made ones

recumbentbob · 12-01-2017, 08:20 AM

A 99 nomad has only 1 carburetor.

radco · 12-01-2017, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by recumbentbob

A 99 nomad has only 1 carburetor.

Ooooops I thought 2 like my Honda had :O Guess that's what I get for thinking plus I am old :O That is my excuse lol

MrMikey · 12-01-2017, 10:28 AM

Sounds to me as if the carb is still plugged.
Only thing I do when i take a carb apart for cleaning is 'if there's a hole bored in, there has to be an exit somewhere'. Using that rational, I use a spray can of cleaner and spray every port and make sure the fluid comes out somewhere, or else make sure there's a welch plug in the hole.
I've heard people having good luck using an ultrasonic cleaner...........mike

Spondulas · 12-01-2017, 11:30 AM

If you still have the old spark plugs, clean, gap and re-install them to see if that makes a difference. It is possible to have a defective new plug - been there and done that! A mis-firing plug on a V-Twin will give the same symptoms as you are describing.

If changing plugs makes a difference, it could be a bad spark plug or a damaged plug wire connector.

If none of these steps make a difference, then I would agree with the others that your issue is fuel related.

TexasRich · 12-01-2017, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spondulas

If you still have the old spark plugs, clean, gap and re-install them to see if that makes a difference. It is possible to have a defective new plug - been there and done that! A mis-firing plug on a V-Twin will give the same symptoms as you are describing.

If changing plugs makes a difference, it could be a bad spark plug or a damaged plug wire connector.

If none of these steps make a difference, then I would agree with the others that your issue is fuel related.

Question on the spark plugs. I’m used to automotive plugs that fit snuggly in the boot of the wire. When I pulled these, they have the small ends unscrewed and the boot installed. Does this make sense and is this correct?

TexasRich · 12-01-2017, 02:36 PM

Thanks for the pointers on this. I’ll work through some of them and see what I find.
Any chance it would have anything to do with the vent hole in the gas cap?
While I had the tank removed, it was on its side slightly while I removed the petcock. I heard a sound out of the tank and noticed some fuel seeping out the top of the tank past the closed fuel cap. Is that normal or should it be air tight?

**MAS Tequila** · 12-01-2017, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TexasRich

Thanks for the pointers on this. I’ll work through some of them and see what I find.
Any chance it would have anything to do with the vent hole in the gas cap?
While I had the tank removed, it was on its side slightly while I removed the petcock. I heard a sound out of the tank and noticed some fuel seeping out the top of the tank past the closed fuel cap. Is that normal or should it be air tight?

That noise is just the normal Kawasaki tank vent whistle.

Your issue is varnish in one or more passage in the carb.

MT

TexasRich · 12-01-2017, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MAS Tequila

That noise is just the normal Kawasaki tank vent whistle.

Your issue is varnish in one or more passage in the carb.

MT

Ok. So I have been disassembling the carb and flushing all ports and holes with carb cleaner. Is it time to take apart and soak? What do most recommend for soaking?
Also, I’ve been running seafoam thru it and that has helped improve things to this point. Any chance it just needs more time to clean?

DragonLady58 · 12-01-2017, 05:18 PM

Best thing to do is take carb off, break carb down, and soak it for a few days. The carbs have kits that are widely avail.
Go to O'Reallys, get yourself a carb cleaner can with basket. Its a 1 gallon can with cleaner, a wire basket to hold your carb parts.
You can keep the thing comes in handy for alot of things. Then, when you need to boil out another carb, just get some carb cleaner and pour back into the can.....

After letting carb set in cleaner for a few days, blow out with air, and use some really small oxy/Acety tip cleaners to clean the passages, then blow out good. Install rebuild kit.
All it takes is one grain of sand to become lodged, and you can be screwed.
Check all, blow out good, use fresh gas.....

Spondulas · 12-01-2017, 05:46 PM

MC spark plugs have the threaded shaft showing; they don't use the little dome cover like for auto applications. Main thing is to make sure the boots are securely seated when you put them on.

DragonLady58 · 12-02-2017, 04:28 AM

The plug boots have a set of spring loaded wires that tighten (clamp) onto the threads on the tip of the plug.....FYI....

**MAS Tequila** · 12-02-2017, 06:02 AM

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...uretor+cleaner

This is what DL was referring to, the brand doesn't matter.

I use it for all kind of things, not just carbs, not even just bike and/or automotive related.

11-30-2017, 08:30 PM	#1
TexasRich Member Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 55	99 Nomad starved for fuel? Hi gang. Been using the forum for a bit now as I work on a 1999 Vulcan Nomad that I picked up last week. Here is the background and the issue: I bought this from a guy who took it as a trade for his services 4 years ago. He let it set up inside his garage for the last 3 years or so. I have flushed the fuel tank out, replaced the petcock, fuel filter and cleaned the carb out 3 times to try and get everything out. Changed all fluids and spark plugs. New air filter element as well. It will start up right away and warm up quickly. When I take off, there is a bog/hesitation then it catches and runs ok. But there is no top end at the end of each gear. Not sure of the rpms, but it’s not terribly high. I can get to about 50 in fourth gear and it starts to sputter and hesitate, as if starved for fuel. The last time I cleaned the carb, I tried adjusting the air/fuel screw on the bottom of the carb. It was originally set at 2 1/2 turns out and I adjusted it progressively out to 3 1/4 but there was no change. Have returned it to 2 1/2. Replaced the fuel filter again in case it was blocked and removed and checked the petcock to see if it was blocked. It was not, but I flushed it out anyway. Any ideas? Sorry for the longish post, but I figured the more info the better. I feel like I’m missing something simple, but not seeing it. Login or Register to Remove Ads
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12-01-2017, 07:26 AM	#3
radco Sr. Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Dedham Maine Posts: 4,199	First WELCOME As mentioned check the carb boots. Also check you air filter and exhaust ! After sitting a long time little critters like to build a home there :) Have you balanced the carbs ? a couple home made ones __________________
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12-01-2017, 08:20 AM	#4
recumbentbob Sr. Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Newburgh IN Posts: 3,404	A 99 nomad has only 1 carburetor. __________________ VBA #01084 "A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the People to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed."
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12-01-2017, 10:28 AM	#6
MrMikey Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Nova Scotia Posts: 406	Sounds to me as if the carb is still plugged. Only thing I do when i take a carb apart for cleaning is 'if there's a hole bored in, there has to be an exit somewhere'. Using that rational, I use a spray can of cleaner and spray every port and make sure the fluid comes out somewhere, or else make sure there's a welch plug in the hole. I've heard people having good luck using an ultrasonic cleaner...........mike __________________ '09 Voyager
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12-01-2017, 05:18 PM	#12
DragonLady58 Sr. Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Somewhere South of Alaska.... Posts: 2,373	Best thing to do is take carb off, break carb down, and soak it for a few days. The carbs have kits that are widely avail. Go to O'Reallys, get yourself a carb cleaner can with basket. Its a 1 gallon can with cleaner, a wire basket to hold your carb parts. You can keep the thing comes in handy for alot of things. Then, when you need to boil out another carb, just get some carb cleaner and pour back into the can..... After letting carb set in cleaner for a few days, blow out with air, and use some really small oxy/Acety tip cleaners to clean the passages, then blow out good. Install rebuild kit. All it takes is one grain of sand to become lodged, and you can be screwed. Check all, blow out good, use fresh gas..... __________________ --------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride! Last edited by DragonLady58; 12-01-2017 at 05:24 PM.
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11-30-2017, 11:37 PM	#2
Sabre-t Join Date: May 2015 Location: Marietta, GA Posts: 838	I'm not familiar with the carburetion of your bike, but did you check the rubber boots on the needle slides for leaks, the height of the float valve and the condition of the float needle when you were cleaning the carb? From your description, I would suspect a small leak in the needle slide.
	0

12-01-2017, 11:30 AM	#7
Spondulas Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Dickson, Tennessee Posts: 110	If you still have the old spark plugs, clean, gap and re-install them to see if that makes a difference. It is possible to have a defective new plug - been there and done that! A mis-firing plug on a V-Twin will give the same symptoms as you are describing. If changing plugs makes a difference, it could be a bad spark plug or a damaged plug wire connector. If none of these steps make a difference, then I would agree with the others that your issue is fuel related.
	0

12-01-2017, 02:36 PM	#9
TexasRich Member Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 55	Thanks for the pointers on this. I’ll work through some of them and see what I find. Any chance it would have anything to do with the vent hole in the gas cap? While I had the tank removed, it was on its side slightly while I removed the petcock. I heard a sound out of the tank and noticed some fuel seeping out the top of the tank past the closed fuel cap. Is that normal or should it be air tight?
	0

12-01-2017, 05:46 PM	#13
Spondulas Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Dickson, Tennessee Posts: 110	MC spark plugs have the threaded shaft showing; they don't use the little dome cover like for auto applications. Main thing is to make sure the boots are securely seated when you put them on.
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12-02-2017, 04:28 AM	#14
DragonLady58 Sr. Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Somewhere South of Alaska.... Posts: 2,373	The plug boots have a set of spring loaded wires that tighten (clamp) onto the threads on the tip of the plug.....FYI.... __________________ --------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride!
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12-02-2017, 06:02 AM	#15
MAS Tequila Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Psychiatric Ward FL Posts: 3,429	https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...uretor+cleaner This is what DL was referring to, the brand doesn't matter. I use it for all kind of things, not just carbs, not even just bike and/or automotive related. __________________ MT 2016 FLHP Psychiatric Ward FL VBA 936
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