New clutch spring

[trosco]

Hey all, put the Barnett Clutch Spring in my Nomad last week. If you have a moderated amount of mech skill, a new spring-engine cover gasket-exhaust gasket on hand and the correct tools you can do this at home in about 3 hours. I'd also recommend changing the oil and filter afterwards.

I had not experienced any slip on my bike yet (I thought) but it was time based on all the others experience. When I removed it, the OEM spring did show wear on the fingers. This is were the outside throw out bearing and washer contact the spring. (the outside spring really functions as the pressure plate does in a dry car type clutch assembly and the throw out bearing and pressure plate fingers terminology comes from that analogy).

Afterwards, I was surprised by how much effect the change had. It did increase the clutch lever pull a bit but with the lever fulcrum on 2 it was not uncomfortable. It did also move the friction point to the middle of the lever throw. It had been at nearly fully extended since the day the bike was new. I think that is a real positive as I had tried unsuccessfully to adjust the OEM set up that way.

But the big benefit was on the test drive, the engines connection to the rear drive thru the transmission and clutch seemed significantly more solid. There must have bee a small percentage of slip for some time.

Oh, before someone chimes in with a comment about of course there was slip because we have a "slipper clutch" please understand that a "slipper clutch" is a design that allows a small amount of "ratcheting" during the engagement process when under deceleration only. It's a safety feature on some large V-twins to keep the rear wheel from locking up and putting the bike into a slide when someone throws the bike into a lower gear and pops the clutch without bringing the engine speed up to match the rear wheel. Folks have done that for years to let their loud pipes sound off and unfortunately more than a few have wrecked because of the ensuing rear wheel lock up and slide. Indian actually came up with the original design over 70 years ago. This design doesn't provide any slip under acceleration.

Anyway, Though I am not a speed merchant I do run the bike out to close to top speed a couple times each year. It's been between 105-110 mph when the bike would feel "about done" for several years. Now the bike pulled quite steadily to 110 mph and might have gone further if I was crazier than I am.

So I think I improved my bike (and potentially dodged a "on the road" clutch problem) by making this change. I also did cam extenders at 48,000 miles with a "clic" left on each. It did quiet motor a bit so I think is another good piece of preventative maint to do.

Just as FYI: I have a 07 with 57,000 miles (all by me). I normally ride alone and make longer trips so it has had a easy life as far as style of use. I am very anal about maint. so the bike is in excellent shape. Used top of the line syn oils (Mobil or Shell T-6) the whole life and changed oil/filter every 4,000 miles (went 5,000 on a couple trips where oil/filter was new at start of trip) or 6 months which ever came first.

[blowndodge]

Ross your really expecting Joel and Kris to understand what you just wrote?? Funny man!!

[trosco]

Come on Brad, I tried to make it conversational so I hope that it's a consumer friendly message. And I offer to personally explain it to them if they need me to!

Seriously: Joel was a rock to lean on when the fuel pump went out on my bike on the Indian reservation in the west Colorado desert last year. He was preparing to drive nearly 300 miles one way to trailer me back to civilization when I finally arranged rescue. It's folks like him (and you) that make this such a great group.

If anyone wants to tackle this project and needs some coaching just drop me a email. I will be on another of my "trips" this summer in June July and August but will have the lap top and I will get back to you.

[blowndodge]

They are all good guys. Both of them need their "chops" busted from time to time!!