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08-15-2017, 01:53 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Stony Plain, Alberta
Posts: 694
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Electrical harness burnt up near stators
Anyone else have the issue where the connectors failed, melted and burnt the wires near the stators? Just the charging wires have been damaged, not the remaining sensor wires in the harness. Recommendations : replace harness or piece meal the wires and change connectors. Problem I see right off the bat is that I have very little wire to work with coming from each stator outlet.
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08-15-2017, 02:26 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 405
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Common problem due to the resistance of the plug. High resistance connection=heat= more resistance=...you get the pic.
Best solution is to remove the damaged wires, solder/heat shrink new and do away with the plug. For the amount of times the stator has to be removed, it's of little use anyway. Use a multistranded, flexible, 12ga wire. I meant to add, hopefully they didn't short out and fry the stator. Should be approximately 75VAC (I think, someone says different, believe them LOL) across any two of the three yellow wires at 'round 2500rpm..........Mike
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'09 Voyager
Last edited by MrMikey; 08-15-2017 at 02:30 PM.
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08-15-2017, 02:33 PM | #3 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada
Posts: 35,387
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It happens to more than a few bikes, the good thing is that its a pretty simple fix. Do what MrMikey suggests and you should be back in business.
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2002 Nomad aka Bountyhunter VBA #27 VROC #18951 |
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08-15-2017, 03:10 PM | #4 |
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Stony Plain, Alberta
Posts: 694
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I agree with your assessments, I'm going to eliminate the plug entirely, and hard wire both stators into place. Replace any damaged wires as far back as required inside the harness. I could pick up a used harness on Ebay for $60.00 but I don't need to replace the entire unit so that would be a lot of work for nothing. I can get a new harness for $700 Cdn. so that's not happening either.
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Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts.........Mark Twain. |
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08-15-2017, 03:19 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Somewhere South of Alaska....
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I would say this should be one of the most needed improvements a new owner ought to make. Some folks are scared off because of a known wiring problem, but other than that, these bikes are totally bulletproof if maintained....just my 2 pecos....
The main cause of this mess is the plugs hidden behind that cover that allows dirt, moisture in and add to the mix cramped wires, stuff wiggling, corroding, saw a friends bike start smoking as we came outta a big texas rainstorm last year..... Flagged him down and his stators were fried, along with his wiring.... Its a easy weekends worth of work thats totally worth it.... Mines not hard-wired, but I use automotive weatherproof plugs sealed and have dielectric grease....
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--------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... *My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved* --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride! Login or Register to Remove Ads
Last edited by DragonLady58; 08-15-2017 at 03:22 PM.
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08-15-2017, 08:43 PM | #6 |
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Stony Plain, Alberta
Posts: 694
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Okay, I've rewired the regulators and stators straight together. My wiring diagram has everything where it's supposed to be. However, this is where I need some assistance. I'm left with two wires of the same colour ( yellow with a thin black stripe ) I checked them with my ohm meter and they are connected at some other point. It's too bad everything was so fried and melted that my pictures don't show where these two go. The schematic in my manual does show one yellow/black wire attached to a stator output wire and then travels up to the main fuse box to feed the headlight relay?? But, no mention of the other yellow/black wire. It may be an error in my schematic since it would make sense to draw current from both stators..... Any insight would be appreciated.
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Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts.........Mark Twain. |
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08-16-2017, 01:44 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Somewhere South of Alaska....
Posts: 2,359
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Need to get a hi-quality repair manual that has a full color electrical schmatic, it will pay for itself in a case like yours....
Also, try to use the same color wiring as that was in the orig. harness.... https://dc611.4shared.com/download/c...xODY&lgfp=3000
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--------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... *My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved* --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride! |
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08-16-2017, 01:55 AM | #8 |
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 405
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Bike?
Usually yellow is the AC from the stator and goes to the R/R, I'm presuming yl/bla is one stator the other is probably all yellow. I have a manual for a Nomad and a Voyager so I'm just going by the Nomad one for now. The three yl/bla wires go to the front regulator, the only other connection to them is one of the yl/bla is 'T'd' into and also goes to the relay in the headlight bucket for the headlight. That's why it shows the diode in there, to rectify the AC into a rough DC to operate the relay. The other diode, (thinking out loud) is to prevent backfeed when the headlight circuit is energized as once it's energized, the coil gets it's power right from the actual headlight circuit, keeping the light on. without that, the light would stay on even after you shut the bike off, I think?? I'm thinking the reason it shows continuity is that it is the same wire, the T'd one as it goes to two spots after coming form the stator, the R/R and up to the headlight bucket...............Mike
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'09 Voyager
Last edited by MrMikey; 08-16-2017 at 02:01 AM.
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08-16-2017, 06:27 AM | #9 |
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Psychiatric Ward FL
Posts: 3,429
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Isn't the yellow/black striped wire used for grounds on the Kaw's?
I'll have to check later, but I believe so. That makes me think that your problem may still exist, a bad ground somewhere causing the other ground wires to carry more of the load, and causing your meltdown.
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MT 2016 FLHP Psychiatric Ward FL VBA 936 |
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08-16-2017, 07:08 AM | #10 | |
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Location: Nova Scotia
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Quote:
I can't remember the ground color on mine but BLA/YL seems to stick out for some reason...I think...........M
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'09 Voyager |
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08-16-2017, 12:02 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Somewhere South of Alaska....
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If you haven't fixed it by the time I get home, I'll run off a copy, hilite the wires in a bright color so you can follow them, and post them....
Have faith! MAS will get ya straightened out!
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--------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... *My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved* --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride! |
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08-16-2017, 03:23 PM | #12 |
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Stony Plain, Alberta
Posts: 694
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Got it figured out. The two wires were to be from each stator and carry the ac voltage up to the head light relay. This keeps the headlight from coming on while cranking the engine. Once the ac current is felt at the relay, it's tripped and the headlight now comes on. All rewired and back together and now I have 14.7 Volts at my volt meter. I did hard wire the rectifiers to the stators and eliminated the connector. Not an issue unless i have to replace the rectifiers which means cutting the harness. I price I'll pay if it ever happens.
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Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts.........Mark Twain. |
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08-16-2017, 05:09 PM | #13 |
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I having been watching this. Good job on fixing the problem.
My symptom is mostly the headlight does not always come on at startup. The bulb and headlight can connectors are fine. Testing shows no power to the fuse when the headlight does not come on. This is why I am happy I did not use the headlight wire to fire my driving lights relay. Otherwise, no lights at all. The left side rectifier seems cold while the right gets warm/hot. It seemed to me my voltmeter in the power pod I have was lower at at road speeds than I remember. Time to do a step by step diagnosis.
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08-17-2017, 07:22 AM | #14 | |
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Quote:
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08-17-2017, 01:42 PM | #15 |
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I have noticed "head light relay" mentioned in quite a few posts but have no idea where that relay is located. Is it part of the fuse package under the left side cover or an actual relay I can check and replace?
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Hammer aka CrocHammer KawaNow#00988, VROC#26389, VR#2202 Abbotsford, BC, Canada 2006 Black Nomad |
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