Drive shaft oil change interval HELP!!!

[bignomadmike]

:)Would like to know when to change oil after x amount of miles what kind of oil and so on would appreciate any input P.S.Hey lomax it wasn't my bevel gear bearing making the whine or clicking its coming from drive shaft Their currently trying to locate the problem.

[lomax]

...I presume your talking about the oil in your final drive. The manual says to change every 24k miles. I change it out each time I do an oil change. It doesn't take long and uses very little oil (about 200ml). The recommended oil is GL-5 hypoid gear oil 90w or 80-90. Many are using a synthetic equivalent. If you do this oil change yourself, fill it with the bike on the sidestand and not straight up like the manual says. Many have found that filling it straight up gets it overfull and can result in a leak at the front seal. Good to hear your bevel gear bearing is not the problem. Let us know what you find. :)

[dank]

I do mine with the bike straight up at the recommended intervals. Obviously changing it more frequently would not hurt anything, but I would be concerned about under filling it with the bike on the side stand. I fill mine with the bike straight up and fill it to the threads of the plug. It seems to me it is impossible to over fill it unless you either rotate the wheel or tilt the bike past vertical.

[dkdixie]

Change mine, with the bike on sidestand, every other oil change.

Has the driveshaft ever been serviced? When I did mine with 12,000 miles there was almost no grease. Others have reported the same.
Doing the driveshaft and swingarm reduced a vibration by 70-80%

[trip]

I change mine out every other time I change my oil and filter.

Leave Nomad on side stand, take off left hard bag, drain old final gear oil with bottom bolt, then open slotted, larger bolt and squirt in new final gear oil. I use Royal Purple 75w-140.

Squirt in enough until it oozes out and let drain until it almost comes to a stop. Put slotted plug back in good and tight and you're done.

[rallyjunkie]

this is good info, and can be done by yourself..easy as pie

[macmac]

On the side stand is best, other wise you will over fill the gear gear box and drown the seals.. A wooden block can be set uder the side stand so long as the bike still leans some.

6.2 ounces of grear oil isn't enough really, and so changing well before book spec is best.

The driveshaft uses no oil and the U Joint uses grease, but there is no way to grease it.

If it is clicking it is a bad U joint. many are not greased properly from the factory. The time to check these is every 7,000 miles according to the book. If you do at 7,000 miles and find the joint moves freely in all planes it will most likey be good for a very long time there after.

If it binding in one plane it is trash. This is a press fit U joint, and comes in a shaft, which is good if you are under warrenty. Because that shaft is 350+ bucko's.

If you are not under warrenty then go with the same U Joint the 4x4 's use, and have it pressed.

If the joint whines which I have never heard of before it might guess it is rythmic on and off sounding, rather than a steady whine..

[cactusjack]

CaddmannQ used to talk about finding a burr somewhere on the driveshaft, I think it was in/near the u-joint that could cause a noise and premature u-joint failure.

[macmac]

The burr can cut the U Joint seal and allow grease to come out. That is if any grease got in the plane of action in the first place.

When a man greases a U Joint if he knows what he is doing, he will squeeze off one plane and grease one, then squeeze off the one he just did, and do the other plane, so the joint is not air bound on any plane.

The factory didn't bother, and the bad joint I had on my 01 had NO grease in one plane.

I have no idea why these joints have no zerk fitting.. Some whizz of a engineer saving 2 cents per hundred joints I guess.

For those willing to work, you can drill and thread for a zerk, re-grease these joints and then pull the zerk and cap it off with a bolt made for the job.

Doing this it would be critical to not allow any steel chips into the joint, and drilling dead center on one cap bearing.

If it were me i would use a strong magnet and clean up just before i drilled thru. Then once thru I would use a pencil magnet to get the rest of the chips, and be certain I got every last one.

Anyone installing a new joint should either buy such a joint, or make it so before it is installed.

Also sanding and chamfering the yokes, which is where Cadd's burr is.

A good engineer knows where he can and can't cut corners. This is safety related and should have never happened, and should have had a recall for a updated joint.

[bignomadmike]

Thanks for the help guys!!!