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Old 05-16-2021, 05:31 PM   #1
jtascone   jtascone is offline
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Proper way to tighten the 27mm clutch nut

I'm getting ready to install the MS Clutch Spring and Judges washers on my Nomad. I've read that the old penny trick for tightening the 27mm nut on the clutch basket is no longer recommended. So how do I get the nut tightened to 108 ft/lbs without it turning?



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Old 05-16-2021, 10:30 PM   #2
VulcanJeff   VulcanJeff is offline
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I bought an EBC clutch basket tool when I bought my discs. It wasn't that expensive, between 10 and 15 bucks as I recall.
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Old 05-17-2021, 10:40 AM   #3
jtascone   jtascone is offline
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That looks like a great tool. Does it just go around the whole clutch basket like a socket over a nut? I'm assuming the 1500 and 1600 take the same tool?
 
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Old 05-17-2021, 05:47 PM   #4
BigRiig   BigRiig is offline
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The penny trick worked for me. Be sure to plug the hole under the clutch basket before using the penny to avoid dropping it in the crank case. I have been building engines of all kinds for years and the penny trick works good for many applications because the copper is much softer than the steel. It is virtually impossible to mess up the gears.
 
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Old 05-17-2021, 08:15 PM   #5
VulcanJeff   VulcanJeff is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtascone View Post
That looks like a great tool. Does it just go around the whole clutch basket like a socket over a nut? I'm assuming the 1500 and 1600 take the same tool?
It is a great tool. It might have been closer to 20 bucks or 25? Dennis Kirk has them for low 20s. I bought mine a few years ago.

Yes, like a socket over a nut, or more like a box end wrench over a nut.

Yes, fits 15 and 1600s.
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Old 05-18-2021, 06:02 AM   #6
mick56   mick56 is offline
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Or just put the bike in 1st gear, and put a chock in front of the back wheel.
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Old 05-18-2021, 10:45 AM   #7
Kawi_addict   Kawi_addict is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mick56 View Post
Or just put the bike in 1st gear, and put a chock in front of the back wheel.
I love common sense answers when you're in the middle of a project that you can see past yourself on
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Old 05-18-2021, 10:57 AM   #8
mick56   mick56 is offline
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Thank you kindly. Unfortunately, common sense, ain't so common anymore.
EDIT. Actually. As it's a right hand thread, the bike should move backwards. So the chock needs to be behind the back wheel. Maybe.
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Last edited by mick56; 05-18-2021 at 11:12 AM.
 
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Old 05-19-2021, 10:41 AM   #9
degreaser   degreaser is offline
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i used a copper penny between the gears, drilled a hole in the penny and tied a string thru the penny just for insurance the penny had to be fished out of the hole, never fell in and the penny worked good enough to get the Nut torqued
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Old 06-03-2021, 01:48 PM   #10
DragonLady58   DragonLady58 is offline
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All the above works, also, the stepped blocks to lock up the primary chains on Harleys, Triumphs, Nortons....
I, too, have several drilled penny's with a line tied to it....cheap, inexpensive, takes about 10 minutes to make, works perfectly....
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Old 06-14-2021, 08:38 PM   #11
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I made an aluminium wedge that fit between the gears. Being aluminum, its a lot softer than the gears but being a wedge, it started to get pulled in between the gears but quickly stopped and allowed me to apply the required torque to the nut.
 
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