Rear Brake Line Question

[deacon1984]

We had a rainy weekend, so I figured it would be a good time to do some work on the bike. I installed some Phat II risers, and decided to tackle an oil change.

I bought the bike two weeks ago, so this was my first oil change on the Nomad. Let's just say it did not go well. The prior owner apparently used super glue to install the filter (just kidding, but it sure seemed like it). In any event, in the removal process I shredded the filter. When spinning it to take it out, I discovered that I cut the outer rubber covering on the rear brake line. There is no leaking, and there appears to be a separate braided line underneath that is unscathed. I think I am alright, but wanted to see if anyone thought there might be an issue with this. Here is a picture:



I used some electrical tape to cover the hole in the rubber covering.

[redjay]

As long as you did not damage the actual brake line you should be okay. It looks like you just cut through the outer covering that is there to protect the brake line as it passes through the hoops on the swing arm, or anywhere else it rubs. If you are in any doubt order a new one and replace the damaged one when it comes in. In the meantime keep a close eye on the brake fluid level and check the damaged area periodically for leaks.

[gman47]

Dirt, water and salt reside could get inside and eventually cause corrosion and ultimately, failure of the braided lining.

[ringadingh]

You should be Ok for a while, but keep your eye on it. It may start to wheep after a while. You should get someone to step on the brake pedal while you look at the spot and see if anything changes.

[deacon1984]

Thanks for the replies.

I covered the hole, so hopefully stuff won't get in it.

I did push on the brake pedal a bunch before I taped up the rubber covering, to see if anything came out - nothing did.

I will keep my fingers crossed for now, and watch the fluid level for a while to see if it drops.

[macmac]

i wouldn't worry about that scuff on the conduit a second. Just avoid getting crap inside it.

One real good fix would be 3-M black, make sure you get black, as the other more common option is bright yellow and glue that jag.. give that a few days to cure and glue it again.

The filter only needs to be hand snug... A place where you could still turn it tighter by hand only, but don't. I use no wrenches at all to remove any filters of this type on anything I have.

[deacon1984]

I don't do any more than a hand tighten of the filter, either. I have no idea what the previous owner did, but that sucker would not budge without some real force applied to it.

[macmac]

Some people to include techs over tighten oil filter to high hell and back. I have driven rods thru many to get them off. I have assorted oil filter wrenches too, and still have had every one fail on a too tight of a filter.

[deacon1984]

I had one of those caps that fits over the end of the filter, with a hole at the top for a socket. It kept slipping off, so I read that sandpaper would help on the grip. Got it on there snug, and then started tapping the socket handle with a hammer. I felt a little movement, then the bolt welded on the inside of the cap came lose. Fortunately, it broke the seal on the fileter enough that the channel locks could do the rest of the work. What a PITA!

[macmac]

That type of wrench s a throw away in the first place and should have been thrown out before you bought it. The 2 main types any good are a strap wrench that winds up and if the filter is tight enough will crush the filter, or the steel strap wrench type where you buy one close to the size of the filter.

[superduty]

My brake line was rubbed worse than that and it's been OK for about a year now. I covered it with some wire loom and secured with wire ties. I blame it on the rough surface of the yellow Purolator filter I was using at the time. I switched to a Mobile1 filter and there's been no more abrasion of the cover in the 3k since the last change.