Please help with Wiring!

[samkjr]

Oh my God. I am looking at this and totally lost.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Pr...PC-8/pc-8.html

I have no clue how to wire this.
For the right side of the pic, I assume the longer black cable goes to my neg terminal and shorter red goes to pos.

But what is a switching lead and what to I tap it into? Right now my light work on hi and low beam. I would like to keep it that way. I have a switch on the right back side of my lightbar that turns them off an on.

[macmac]

Relax... This is easy...

The harness has 3 cables, 2 are red, while they may have shieldings in a black covering. Just make sure the only all black cable goes to the NEGITIVE (-) at the battery.

Hook that cable up LAST! Not a chance for a spark if everything else is OFF this way.

Now the guy confuses the hell outta me..... he says he hooks his switching lead to the brake light circuit! I don't belive that for a second. If he did he only uses what ever accessories with his brake light ON I don't think so.

I don't know what you plan to install and when you would want to run what ever that is, so you should tap into the rear tail light that comes on with the key probably, and the whole thing will be ON then. (PWR to tail light wire blue I think with out looking at the book.)

There are 2 fuses that will be ON ALL the TIME!

These 2 take off from the pad marked Bat. These 2 and these 2 alone need a switch for what ever you add to these fuses, si you can turn them off.

All the other fuses will go cold when you shut off the ignition switch. You can still add in on/off switches to what ever these would be somewhere.

If I knew what items you wanted to add, and when you wanted them to work it would help.

For example lets say you want passing lights on any time, even with the keys in your pocket, and the engine OFF, to set up a tent in a campground well after bed time, and fear running the engine for illumination, for waking the dead!

In that case you would run the lamps from one of the 2 Bat pad fuses. This way the passing lights need a switch so you can turn them off. This is the way my bike is for that very reason, but I did it with a relay and a switch, so it does not run thru my ignition, or use any bike OEM wiring.

Lets say you want a GPS and have the ability to look at it with the bike off as well. Then you use the other fuse on the Bat pad .... You must be sure to turn it OFF.

Then lets say you know you will never use the GPS with the engine off, then just select any other fuse on the pad marked PWR.

[samkjr]

Awesom Mac. I knew someone would step in and help me. Now how do I know which line is the rear running light? that's the one that I want to to use the positap on the end of the switching lead for right?

I am just this project so that I will quit blowing fuses. You can refer to my earlier thread "electrical lighting problem" on page 2 of the the garage, if you would like.
All is for stuff to work when the ignition is on. I assume that is what my fuse box calls the switched fusses. There are 6 of them and 2 unswitch.

The biggest question is how to I find the right wires and run them from my spotlights to the new fuse box?
Thanks so much for being available.

[macmac]

I can tell you were typin like a mad man hoping to catch me..

I think the tail light wire is blue, and is best found under the seat heading to the rear of the bike...

BRB I will look in the book to be sure...

WHOA I was wrong, the blue is brakes! You want the red wire, in the same harness. The red wire is the tail light!

How to find the wiring from the passing lamps depends on how it was wired in the first place... I can't know that.

[samkjr]

Well thanks. I do appreciate it I will just go play some more and try to get it all going right. IS there any certain way I am supposed to do something when I run wire from the forks to the frame? Just leave enough loose wire so nothign stretches?

[macmac]

I just reviewed the other thread..

I think the passing lamps are wired straight from the red wire, which should ID it for you and give you the place to cut the passing lamps from in the first place, and in the second place give you the place to add in the red wire from the new fuse box to the PWR pad!.

That should make things simple.

Then select the passing lamps wire to a fuse rated to 15 amps on the new fuse box.

I will post again...

[macmac]

I have not seen one of these fuse boxes in my hand yet, but probably it works like this.

The ground is hooked up last...

You hook up the Bat +cable (red) to the battery (+).
Then you hook up the PWR wire to the red wire where the passing lamps seem to be now, by cutting the passing lamps wire right clean off, and ading in the PWR wire there.

Then take the passing lamp wire you just cut, and add it to which ever side of the fuse box pads you like, PWR as you seem to want. With the engine off to use these lamps you will need to turn the key on, but won't need to run the engine. There will be everything on however, that is on when you would go to start the engine.

This fuse box has some form of relay.

The current comes from the tail light circuit to turn on the fuse box's 6 fuses, and the rest of the power is supplied from the battery pad. This is how a relay works, and so there must be some relay in this box, with or with out any moving parts.

A relay is a switch. Most are mechanical an turned on and off by current being turned on and off, and this fuse box is turned on and off for 6 fuses. This particular box may be transistorized, but it doesn't say and I can't tell.

So there may be no clicking of moving switches to be heard.

To hear these a car is one way. Most cars today use a relay to tune on and off hi and low beam and you can hear clicking.

By the way I am using that same rear tail lamp bulb. it just over loaded the circuit with the passing lamps wired directly.

It is good thing to get passing lamps off the IGN switch too! The IGN switch is not rated enough to run passing lamps thru the tail lamp wire, and would have in time fried that switch!

[macmac]

Forks to Frame... I don't think you need to... The wire should be there already.

Run any wires neatly in a bundle, and wrap any you add in some one of the coverings common for this work. Use nylon ties where needed.

Keep it neat!

[samkjr]

Mac if you move further down on that page, I bought that wiring harnes that he shows. Comes with the relay and everything.

I am not sure what you are calling the PWR wire.
Sorry for my electrical ignorence.

[macmac]

The PWR means powered circuit, and is printed on the fuse box printed circuit board.

On that board it says Bat, meaning to hook that terminal right to the (+) post on the battery.

It says Gnd, which means ground, and that all black wire goes right to the (-) side of the battery.

The last thing it says is PWR meaning for the place the wire from the tail light comes from, that you splice in.

Don't worry about what I think... I wish I was close enough to all you guys I could earn something for a living....

I am cheaper than anyone, and anything you can dream up, when the labor rates are 80 bucks an hour, and I do better work too!

I saw relays in the info, but I don't know that bike well enough to tell if the relay came in the kit, or it was OEM to that bike.

As you read, understand and learn, remember it, because anything that works with a relay will be wired very much like this.

On your other thread you will wire this relay, just like CJ said.

This fuse box then is just like passing lights and or any high draw.

The rear lamp is telling the relay to turn on the fuse box. The fuse box is rated high enough you can run anything you like at 15 amps, till you find you can't make enough juice to run it all at the same time! LOL

So you can run heated clothing, GPS, Stero, tv, a small microwave, the dammned phone, a razor, and just about anything any RV can run, other than a frying pan.

The goat bladder was the frying pan part of the Nomad..

Anyway how did you do so far?

I have been working on a industrial oven, and a Jeep for hire and didn't get to my blooming ft tire at all yet....

[Yellow Jacket]

samkjr

Let me try to clarify the situation some for you if I can.


The fuse panel does not have a relay built into it. The relay is part of the wiring kit.

Do not hook the wire from your tail light to the PWR connection on the fuse panel!

The wire from the tail light will hook to the "switching" wire on the wiring kit.

The first picture is of the fuse panel.

The position labeled "GND" is the wire that goes directly to the - terminal of the battery. This is the shortest black wire of the three wires shown in the next picture at the lower left side.

The position labeled "BAT" is the longest red wire shown at the lower left side in the next picture. This is the unswitched power coming from the battery through the 30A fuse.

The position labeled "PWR" is the shortest red wire shown at the lower left side in the next picture. This is the switched power from the relay in the wiring harness.



The last picture is the wiring kit or harness.

The wire labeled "Switching Lead" is the one you want to hook to the tail light wire. This lead will turn on the relay when the ignition switch is turned on. This will then apply power to the six "switched" fuses on the panel. These are the first six fuses on the left in the above picture.

At the right side of the picture are two wires labeled "Battery."

The black wire will go to the - or negative terminal of the battery.
The red wire will go to the + or positive terminal of the battery.

The three wires at the lower left side labeled "PC-8" will connect to the fuse block at the BAT, GND and PWR positions as I described above.



The last two fuses on the right of the panel will always be powered regardless of the position of the ignition switch.

I would suggest that you connect your driving lights to the first 15A fuse on the left.

I hope that this is of some help to you.

Good luck!

Bob

[samkjr]

Thank you very much Bob and Mac. I went out to the bik yesterday and started poking around and tried tracing wires to see where they went. I think I could hook up the the new fuse box correctly... probably. My biggest concern was finding the right wires, extending them and running them to the new panel.

I am coing to Thunder in the Cascades tomrrow, and really do not want to mess anything up that would put an end to my trip. I also really want ot have spotlights without blwoing fuses and hurting my bike.

I went to Military school and have a pretty strong alumni network and bond with many of them. I contacted a friedn that has an automotive shop in Alexandria, VA. I am getting ready to grive up there right now and he is going to do the work and teach me a few things while we are at it. He is not familiar with bikes at all, so he asked me to bring the info I gatherered from you guys.

Thank you so much for all the help. By the end of the day I should be flying nice and safe.

[macmac]

Bob is correct.. At first I didn't understand the kit included any relay.

The relay has numbers, we call them terminals.

T 30 should be fused with a high amp rated fuse 30 amps, and the wire for this should come from the battery (+) directly. ( the harness wire with fuse already.)

T 85 is ground, and this lead to the relay should come from the battery (-) or frame. The pic isn't clear to me, and I can't tell if the big black wire has a piggy back wire to T 85.

Trying to clear this a bit.. There is the black cable which goes to the battery, and the fues box GND.

Then I don't see but there is a T -85 on the relay and it needs a ground wire too. maybe it is connected to the black cable?? If not a wire from T 85 must be grounded to the frame or battery.

The frame is ground all over the bike, just a big wire to the battery, so any bolt into the frame is a ground.

All the wires black with bright yellow tracers are also ground wires over the entire bike.

So the relay needs a ground at T 85 some way or another.

T 86 to the relay should come from the red tail light wire under the seat tripping the relay to be ON from the tail light.

T 87 from the relay should go to the PWR. at the fuse box.

I am sorry to have confused things.. I wish I had known there was a relay outside of the fuse box.

[cnc]

Samkjr,

Just to clarify a little more the tail light wire is red with a blue stripe and is the bottom most wire coming out of the bike's fuse panel. See where I am pointing in the photo. As Bob mentioned tap your switching wire into this.

[macmac]

cnc , I just looked that up, and for where you show it you are correct. Eventually that wire becomes solid red and is under the seat where I found it easiest to tap into for the TFI on my bike.

I wish the book diagram was bigger and in color.. If any one knows where a diagram is like that I sure would like to know.