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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 282
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Proper way to tighten the 27mm clutch nut
I'm getting ready to install the MS Clutch Spring and Judges washers on my Nomad. I've read that the old penny trick for tightening the 27mm nut on the clutch basket is no longer recommended. So how do I get the nut tightened to 108 ft/lbs without it turning?
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Galesburg, IL
Posts: 309
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I bought an EBC clutch basket tool when I bought my discs. It wasn't that expensive, between 10 and 15 bucks as I recall.
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2005 Vulcan 1600 Nomad - lovin' it! 2009 Vulcan 1700 Classic LT - gone, mostly forgotten 2005 Vulcan 1500 Classic FI - gone but not forgotten |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 282
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That looks like a great tool. Does it just go around the whole clutch basket like a socket over a nut? I'm assuming the 1500 and 1600 take the same tool?
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Northern California
Posts: 52
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The penny trick worked for me. Be sure to plug the hole under the clutch basket before using the penny to avoid dropping it in the crank case. I have been building engines of all kinds for years and the penny trick works good for many applications because the copper is much softer than the steel. It is virtually impossible to mess up the gears.
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#5 | |
Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Galesburg, IL
Posts: 309
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Quote:
Yes, like a socket over a nut, or more like a box end wrench over a nut. Yes, fits 15 and 1600s.
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2005 Vulcan 1600 Nomad - lovin' it! 2009 Vulcan 1700 Classic LT - gone, mostly forgotten 2005 Vulcan 1500 Classic FI - gone but not forgotten Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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#6 |
Sr. Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: The Newforest, England
Posts: 4,664
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Or just put the bike in 1st gear, and put a chock in front of the back wheel.
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#7 | |
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Location: K.c. Missouri
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Quote:
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Love team green owned almost all of them from atvs to baggers and even a lawn mower My dog is my co pilot |
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#8 |
Sr. Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: The Newforest, England
Posts: 4,664
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Thank you kindly.
![]() ![]() EDIT. Actually. As it's a right hand thread, the bike should move backwards. So the chock needs to be behind the back wheel. Maybe. ![]()
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Last edited by mick56; 05-18-2021 at 11:12 AM.
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#9 |
Advanced Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Canada
Posts: 614
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i used a copper penny between the gears, drilled a hole in the penny and tied a string thru the penny just for insurance the penny had to be fished out of the hole, never fell in and the penny worked good enough to get the Nut torqued
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04 1500 sold, got an 800 now Atlantic Canada |
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#10 |
Sr. Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Somewhere South of Alaska....
Posts: 2,373
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All the above works, also, the stepped blocks to lock up the primary chains on Harleys, Triumphs, Nortons....
I, too, have several drilled penny's with a line tied to it....cheap, inexpensive, takes about 10 minutes to make, works perfectly....
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--------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... *My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved* --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride! ![]() |
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#11 |
Member
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 221
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I made an aluminium wedge that fit between the gears. Being aluminum, its a lot softer than the gears but being a wedge, it started to get pulled in between the gears but quickly stopped and allowed me to apply the required torque to the nut.
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