cam shaft seal

[crapper]

a while back , i asked about an oil leak (small but pesky)around the chrome head cover and someone said it probably was the rubber\plastic cam shaft seal along with some sugestions on remedies. tried the silicone and soap and still leaking.
wondering if someone had to get those things replaced and did the motor have to come out. there is absolutely no room between the frame and motor to get at the covers...
any info would be appreciated...........thanks

[macmac]

The engine atleast would need to be dropped some. Sorry the soap trick didn't work. It didn't slow the leak at all?

Dropping the engine some is still a lot of labor, since the rear wheel and swing arm would need dropped too.

I am not sure how I would support the bike for this myself. Probably i would hang it with a chain fall and padded straps from the rafters in the barn, and lower the engine on a lift.

or yank the rear fender and use 2 tall jack stands bridged with a 4x4 to keep the rear end supported. A lot of labor to get 4 inches play.

I see no way leaving that chromed cover in place as the head is under that, and to get things clean by rights it must be removed, not that it can't be lifted still on the studs and detail cleaned in place. But that I would want to check out everything else I could see at that point.

It is too bad the frame can't be un-bolted up there as well.

[ndbigfish]

Is the leak around the cam plug under the edge of the rocker cover? Or is it coming from under the rocker cover? What year is your bike? I replaced the rocker cover gaskets on my 99. I have a Kawasaki service manual that was pretty beneficial as a reference. I did have to drop the engine, but the swing arm and rear end didn't have to be removed. I did remove them however to service them while I had the bike apart waiting for parts. This job can be done with minimal tools and some technical help. If you remove the rocker covers, carefully inspect the covers for any cracks or damage. A small transmission jack makes the removal much easier. The engine must come forward, away from the propeller shaft, before it can come out.

[macmac]

Oh, so it is possible to pull the drive shaft pin with the swing arm still in place? I wouldn't have thought so, but I guess maybe it can..

[ndbigfish]

Yes, the pin securing the driveshaft to the bevel gear can be pushed in and the engine moved forward and out away from the gear. The engine can only move forward with the radiator removed. This is not difficult job, but it does involve lots of steps to get the job done. Go slow, take pictures and sort and label the hardware as you remove it for future installation. I bought a service manual and a transmission jack and still saved about $1,400 over the dealer's estimate. The gasket was all of $7.63.

[crapper]

Thanks for the info.....and the leak is at the cam shaft plug/seal.
Sounds like a big job to change these rascals but i'm going to have to . the leak makes a mess on the motor and it's hard to clean between the fins etc.......dealer mechanic is so so and their rates are way up there so due to financial restrictions,hehehehe, i'll probably tackle the job myself this spring when things warm up a bit........................

[macmac]

Do both sets... plugs and gaskets, and use a sealer like gasket maker on all surfaces as a thin coating, so it doesn't goosh out all over the place.

You are sneaking enough room to do the job and not really removing the entire engine.

It is likely you will need exhaust head pipe to head gaskets too. As a guess I would say once the tank is off and the frame is unbolted, you will be there in around 4 hours. and on the way back to having a bike in another 4.

Getting the rad out of the way is something I would do even if the swing arm was down..

[spidermann59]

Thanks for the info.....and the leak is at the cam shaft plug/seal.
Sounds like a big job to change these rascals but i'm going to have to . the leak makes a mess on the motor and it's hard to clean between the fins etc.......dealer mechanic is so so and their rates are way up there so due to financial restrictions,hehehehe, i'll probably tackle the job myself this spring when things warm up a bit........................

Next week I am going to apply Loctite cold weld on my cam plug. I hate the mess too. I'll let you know what happens.

[chuckster131]

I have done this job first hand on my 2001 Nomad. You do have to slide the engine out of the right side to get the rocker covers off. Not that bad of a job if you have the proper tools. You need to get the bike up and level, one way is taking ratcheting jack stands and placing them under the rear bag guards. Now you can start taking things off to slide the engine out.
Once I had the plugs removed I cleaned all the surfaces with brake clean ( like carb clean) but doesn't leave a oil film, then cleaned again with rubbing alcohol. Now that everything is clean I used RTV Ultra black silicon by Permatex to set the new plugs in place and reassembled.

If you have more questions I will be willing to help.

Pics on there way via email

[chuckster131]

anyone else too I can send these pics of mine, just pm me with a email addy

[macmac]

If I were you, I would do as Chuckster did with the sealer... I don't know what Loctite cold weld is, but it sure doesn't sound like anything I would want in this application.


Chuckster, no cheat to just drop the engine huh? I had read there is, but never needed to so far.

[chuckster131]

No cheat to doing this! You have to slide the engine out the right side and lower it down to be able to remove the rocker covers and rocker boxes.
I wish there was a easier way

Originally Posted by macmac

If I were you, I would do as Chuckster did with the sealer... I don't know what Loctite cold weld is, but it sure doesn't sound like anything I would want in this application.


Chuckster, no cheat to just drop the engine huh? I had read there is, but never needed to so far.

[spidermann59]

Thank you for the pictures Chuckster 1. I see you too thought JB weld might work...NOT. Thanks again. You TOO MacMac.

[chuckster131]

No, didn't use J-B weld. That was Ultra Black silicon, I spread over the plug to try and stop it from bleeding. NOT ! The only way to do it and do it right is to replace them. I have clocked in over 14,000 miles since and they are bone dry. No leaks

Originally Posted by spidermann59

Thank you for the pictures Chuckster 1. I see you too thought JB weld might work...NOT. Thanks again. You TOO MacMac.

[macmac]

He understood hence the NOT..

Sorry about my mis-info as I had read it was possible to cheat and lower just enough, to do the deed. I am glad to know before I ever need to do it...