Bike wont Start

[hollywood]

I went out on Sat. morning to start my bike for a run and it just wouldn't crank. It was trying but just didn't have enough to turn it over. I got out the battery charger and jumped it from there. It fired right up. Took the chance and went on the run and all was fine.

On Sunday, she wouldn't start again. did the battery charger again. Rode about 10 miles (to my new fav. bar) and when I came out - DEAD. Got a jump and came on home.

Called my mechanic and told him to get me a new batt. So today I jumped it again and rode to the dealer. The top of my batt. is covered with wires and I was afraid of screwing up something so I had him drop in the new batt. Left the dealer, rode about 5 miles, stopped to eat and when I came out it WAS DEAD AGAIN. Of course the dealer was closed by then. :(" title="" border="0"/> I waited a little while - tried again and it started just fine. UUUUGGGGGHHHH

The old batt was the OEM ('05) so it was probably time. I am thinking that somewhere there is something grounding it out or a wire is crimped somewhere. I have the Premeux fairing with a radio and it is not hooked up correctly. It should turn off with the ignition but I have to manually turn it off. Also recently added the brake light modulator. I am not a mechanic, just looking for suggestions for my guy. Somthing aint's right - that's for sure.

Any suggestions
Thanks guys! :-*

[Idaho]

Sounds like you have something on and draining the battery after you turn off the key. Disconnect everything from the battery except the two battery leads. Then use an ammeter and put it in series with the positive post and each wired aux circuit one at a time. When you find current flow you will have found your battery killer. Does not take much. 30 ma will kill a battery in a few days. Sounds like you have something higher than that. Should not be too hard to find.

[macmac]

Before I tested as deep as Idaho says which is correct i would want to test the new battery and then the charging system first.

Some of these OEM battery can last upto the 8th year, so I would go get that one back.

I have listed these basic tests so many times and found no one is willing to spend 17 dollars for a tool and then spend the time, I am sort of reluctant to type it all again.

Much of this can be searched probably under CherriAnne's threads.. And I am willing to type and explain, but I really don't want to, and then be told it is too hard.

[Top Cat]

mac, if you can find the thread where you last posted the procedure, PM Trip and see if he will make the procedure a sticky under the heading "IF Your Bike Won't Start".

[dogdoc]

Good IDEA TC.

[macmac]

Maybe I should just write up a list in order. Idaho's is about the 3rd step, so far from wrong. The first step is knowing the battery on the shelf is any good. It might be, but it might not be. New means nothing.

Next thing to KNOW is if the charging system is capable of charging, and I just have no idea why volt meters or amp meters are not a stock item on bikes these days, but you sure will one one or the other on any bikes I own, and doing that isn't very hard to do. Parts at walley world will do the whole thing for under 25 bucks.

Next comes Idaho's testings... The battery is a good KNOWN, the charging system is a good KNOWN, and then if there is still a draw, it needs be be tracked down that way.

I don't know all the accessories on this bike in question, but a tach can do this as well if it isn't wired correctly.. I can't even guess with the info as is what the matter might be.

It could be a bad new battery, it could be a bad charging system, and it could be a improper load drawing the battery down. I don't know how much time the engine ran after the new battery was in and what if any accessoiries were also on..

I need more info..

[hollywood]

ok - I have bunch of led lights that were not on and a radio which I did have on. The bike started fine today - with not a hint of hestitation. The dealer had the battery on a charger from about 10am til I picked it up at 5:30pm.

One thing I did notice was that when it wouldn't start - I did not hear the fuel pump "whine" when I first turned the key. It sounded like it had juice to turn over but no go. Could it be that the fuel pump is going bad or a short in that area?

As for things being wired correctly - I don't know. I know nothing about electrical so I don't do those things myself. I do have recourse cuz my mechanic did it all. He knows the radio is wired wrong and will fix that. We were both in a hurry that day.

I still want to find out what caused this - I hate not trusting it. Everytime I started it today I held my breath and prayed. But she went 130 miles and no problems

[ringadingh]

Theres a chance you have a bad ignition switch, next time it doesn't start, try turning the key on and off a couple times, and see if that helps.

[Idaho]

Macmac is right about the battery and charger needing to be good. Since you have what sounds like a lot of extra wiring and a radio that is wired wrong it is safe bet that you have something draining the battery when the key is off. You bike exhibits the same symptoms that mine did last winter. I finally got tired of pulling off the seat to re-charge the battery and the last time got out the voltmeter/amp meter. You can pick up a cheap one for about 15 bux and it is invaluable. To check the charging system all you need to do is measure the battery voltage right across the terminals with the bike off. Then start the bike and the voltage should jump a couple of volts higher. As for finding your current draw that it not that tough. In order to tap into a positive source there are two possibilities; one is to use ring terminals and go directly to the positive battery post. That can get real cluttered on top of the battery. Second method is to take one heavy lead from the positive battery post to a fuse distribution block that you can mount under the left side tool cover. Then circuits are tapped off of that . The fuse block would be energized all the time and anything tapped off from it would be too and would need to be turned off to keep from draining the battery. I used an interpose relay that is energized when the engine starts and the positive lead from the battery goes to the contacts of the relay and then to the fuse block. This means that the fuse block is completely de-energized when the key is off. My problem was that the Chatterbox that I had wired directly to the battery was drawing 30 milliamps to charge an internal battery in the Chatterbox even when the key was off. A few days without starting the bike and battery was dead.

When you first turn the key on the bikes electronics goes through a system check to make sure that everything is fine before it will start. If the battery voltage is low the normal sounds that you hear when you turn on the key will be different and the bike may not start. I would not automatically jump on the fuel pump though.

You could just live without all of your extras for a few days and disconnect everything, radio-lights etc, from the battery, tape off the terminal ends and see if your battery holds up.

I know this is a lot of explanation but like Mac says it really is very easy to do. If you will send me a pm with your phone number I will be happy to call you and give you some pointers.

Good luck.
Idaho

[macmac]

hollywood, If you want to trust the bike, and end this problem once and for all go to walley world.

Buy the smallest model of Shumaker battery charger on the shelf.
It cost abiut 17 bucks. Inside the box is the charger rated at 1.5 amps. Also in the box is 2 sets of leads I call pig tails.

One set has universal clamps, and the other is a red wire and a black wire ending in a 2 prong connector, which matches the 2 prong connector on the charger.

Have the mechanic wire this to the battery, Really you should do this your self. Run the pig tail down towards the engine, and to the left somewhat. This way you never have to pull the seat again to hook up a charger.

Everyone here should have this set up, or a Battery tender set up which costs more like 60 bucks. This auto charger should be used any time you are not riding or parked at work.
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Still at walley world you should buy 2 tools. One looks like a ice pick with a clear handle and a black wire coming out of the handle. This cost 4 bucks.

The other tool is a mulitmeter in a bright yellow case for 17 bucks.

I/We can teach you how to use it on the bike and other household or car related items.
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Still shopping.. On the car battery end rack find the volt meter that plugs into a ciggy butt lighter socket. I forget what it cost, but I think something like 15 dollars. It has a swivel read out display and will show a decal voltage reading in the package. It has 3 leds indicator lamps on it too.

Move on to the wiring accessories and buy the ciggy butt lighter with the chrome "L" bracket. Buy one in line fuse rated at 10 to 15 amps, already in a fuse holder, so 2 wires will be in the packet. Buy more similar fuses.

Either buy a connector kit with the connector pliers or take these parts to your tech.

Bring a bit of velcro to the tech too, because only one bolt already on the bike will be used to bolt the "L" braket with the lighter to the bike and a bit of added velcro will stabalize the "L" braket.

The black box with the green display is this volt meter and is on th bike 24/7.

[ice793]

Do you have and aftermarket ignition switch?I have one like the harleys between the middle of my motor on the left side and i had the same problem i found that the ignition wire with the diode in line was shorting out and that fixed my problem.when i turned the key on i wouldnt hear the fuel pump either and thought the fuel pump was bad but the guys here pointed me in the right direction so listen to what they have to say they are great, just my two cents.

[phenrichs]

Originally Posted by macmac

Before I tested as deep as Idaho says which is correct i would want to test the new battery and then the charging system first.

+1 macmac

Did the mech charge the new battery. I know all my batteries have come with the acid in a bottle and you have to charge it first. If you get a battery out of the box and it has enough juice to start the bike it is luck.