Battery Question

[socwkbiker]

Well, it's that time again, I need to get a new battery. I know the stock amps are 16 as I've found on mltiple websites. However, I called my old dealership and he said there was a 20 CS BS battery. I'm assuming this is a 20 amp. Is anyone running one like this? If so, how is it working for you?

My old 16 amp has a dead cell and just couldn't keep up with the crappy wiring job they did on my LED's.

[Top Cat]

I'm not going to be any help Jeff but I need a battery also. I will be interested in the answers to this. At least I bumped it to the top for you. ;)

[cactusjack]

I put a 20 amp battery in mine last fall. No complaints here.

[schoeney]

I just oredered this one through Amazon @ 79.95 + shipping

http://www.batterymart.com/p-YTX20CH...arisonShopping

I am told it is made by Yuasa and is the same as my OEM one that has lasted 8 years and still working. Should be here Monday or Tuesday.

[ringadingh]

Are the Yuasa battery a AGM type or a wet cell?

[oldbikers]

Jeff I have the 20amp in mine it is just an upgrade to the 16

[ve3hzz]

Originally Posted by Ringadingh

Are the Yuasa battery a AGM type or a wet cell?

Most MC batteries now are quasi gel cell batteries.
The ones that are shipped to you come with the acid in a separate container and you have to fill the battery with it. The battery plates are dry charged when produced. Once you put in the acid/water solution from the container and it is allowed to soak in you won't have any problems with acid leaking in future (all these batteries have fiberglass matt in them to soak up the liquid and makes it a gel like battery.

The process will take about 30 minutes for it to soak up the solution into the battery and once it's complete you can run a trickle charger to top up the charge, but it is mostly ready to go and install into your bike from that point. Most battery companies have been doing this now for a few years as it extends shelf life and is safer for transport as they are not transporting SO3 (sulphuric acid) concentrated which would require much more control and limited shipping methods.

I'd go with the 18 amp hour battery (the OEM for Nomads) especially if you have/plan to have, any extra accessories on the bike.

Scott

[VulcanE]

Just this morning, I took my Yuasa YTX20CH-BS off the shelf, it had been sitting there for more than a year, and filled it with the electrolyte. It is a 18 AH battery with 270 CCA ( Click here to see ) . The reason I bought it with the acid separate, Is I didn't need one at the time, but I got a great deal on it, and if I know that I'm going to need it in the future, I like to go ahead and get it so I can have it on hand for when I do need it.
It takes about 20 minutes for the acid to go into the battery, and your supposed to let it sit for at least 1 hour to saturate the inside, then charge it at 1.8 amps till fully charged. I'll get it put in the bike tomorrow. The original battery lasted 6 years, and never had any type of charger hooked to it. I'll try to keep a trickle charger on this one when I'm not riding. ;)

[Scoot]

Originally Posted by schoeney

I just oredered this one through Amazon @ 79.95 + shipping

http://www.batterymart.com/p-YTX20CH...arisonShopping

I am told it is made by Yuasa and is the same as my OEM one that has lasted 8 years and still working. Should be here Monday or Tuesday.

Yep I have ordered the same one from there

[macmac]

My oem battery is a 18Ah AGM........ I think it is the same type as the 1500 Nomad too.

I know this is right since i just looked at my battery on the shelf. It says 18Ah.

[usranger74]

What would the advantage be with the 20 amp over the 18?

[Top Cat]

Originally Posted by usranger74

What would the advantage be with the 20 amp over the 18?

2 amps

[ringadingh]

Originally Posted by usranger74

What would the advantage be with the 20 amp over the 18?

Tims right 2 amps, it will give you a wee bit more cranking power at startup.

[macmac]

18Ah in theory means you can run 1 amp 18 hours, or 18 amps 1 hour.

The charging system is rated 40 amps out put (not looking in the book)

To get that 40 amps the engine speed must be around 2,800 rpm or more.

So far as I can GUESS the bike with no accessories needs about 10 amps to just run what it runs to go....

I KNOW that with 2 pair of passing lamp systems one at 9amps+ the other at 6 amps+ the system is taxed hard, running 4 passing lamps and the bike.

I run a full time voltmeter on my bike and want the max light I can get in moose country, but I can't just run all 4 passing lamps all day and night as i ride, I must monitor them to have all 4 lamps ON at the same time.

If I ride and don't use any passing lamps just stock lights and nothing else but stock, at no time has my bike returned home from any all day ride and the battery be fully charged back up.

No sooner do I plug in my auto float, anti sulfation charger and the battery accepts the charge. The volt meter says so. The volt meter runs 24/7 day and night.

With the charger ON after a 200+ miles all day local ride, I will see the volt meter read out figues in the high 14 volts range instantly. Bt morning the battery has is feed, and the meter will be 13.33 dcv like religion.

Upon a cold start I will see that meter jump to high 14's sometimes low 15's and then as I ride the reading settle to around 14.2 no acc on, and lower 13.8 one set of passing lamps on.

Turn on the 2nd set and I get low 13's, and if I hit a red light middle 12's and the system refuses to recover at any rpm, untill I swith off one set pf passing lamps.

More or less I am wrong in the bike needing apx 10 amps to just run, or the factory 40 amps in theory alternator can't make any 40 amps in the real world.

I think the alternator is over rated and in the real world makes something like 32 amps.

Often times specs on electrical motors and alternators is a little optimisic.

My elctrical air compressor motor states it is 8 horse power and I am sure it isn't a bit over 6.

[usranger74]

Originally Posted by macmac

18Ah in theory means you can run 1 amp 18 hours, or 18 amps 1 hour.

The charging system is rated 40 amps out put (not looking in the book)

To get that 40 amps the engine speed must be around 2,800 rpm or more.

So far as I can GUESS the bike with no accessories needs about 10 amps to just run what it runs to go....

I KNOW that with 2 pair of passing lamp systems one at 9amps+ the other at 6 amps+ the system is taxed hard, running 4 passing lamps and the bike.

I run a full time voltmeter on my bike and want the max light I can get in moose country, but I can't just run all 4 passing lamps all day and night as i ride, I must monitor them to have all 4 lamps ON at the same time.

If I ride and don't use any passing lamps just stock lights and nothing else but stock, at no time has my bike returned home from any all day ride and the battery be fully charged back up.

No sooner do I plug in my auto float, anti sulfation charger and the battery accepts the charge. The volt meter says so. The volt meter runs 24/7 day and night.

With the charger ON after a 200+ miles all day local ride, I will see the volt meter read out figues in the high 14 volts range instantly. Bt morning the battery has is feed, and the meter will be 13.33 dcv like religion.

Upon a cold start I will see that meter jump to high 14's sometimes low 15's and then as I ride the reading settle to around 14.2 no acc on, and lower 13.8 one set of passing lamps on.

Turn on the 2nd set and I get low 13's, and if I hit a red light middle 12's and the system refuses to recover at any rpm, untill I swith off one set pf passing lamps.

More or less I am wrong in the bike needing apx 10 amps to just run, or the factory 40 amps in theory alternator can't make any 40 amps in the real world.

I think the alternator is over rated and in the real world makes something like 32 amps.

Often times specs on electrical motors and alternators is a little optimisic.

My elctrical air compressor motor states it is 8 horse power and I am sure it isn't a bit over 6.

Now, there is a no BS answer