Bevel Gear Whine

[jmorrow]

My wife and I were out riding today and while on the way home her 2004 Nomad started making a high piched whine when she let off the throttle. We were about 30 mile from home so we switched Nomads where I could see if I could determine what was going on(sounded like the noise was coming from the final drive). When I got it home I put it on the motorcycle jack, started it, put it in gear (3rd), my wife would throttle up and let off, several times. I couldn't determine where the noise was coming from. Sounded like it could be the clutch, final drive, or drive shaft. Has anyone had these symptoms with their Nomad or do you have an idea where I should start?

[ercbf]

What does the fluid level and condition of the fluid in the final drive look like?

[ringadingh]

That could take a bit of searching, but since you mentioned the final drive Id check to see that the oil level is ok. If the clutch feels like its working ok it most likely is ok. Does it only whine when you let off, or is that the only time you can here it. Also check to see that nothing is rubbing on a tire, like a wire or something jammed in between the tire and fender.
Perhaps you should also check the timing chains to see if they are rubbing on the spark plug tubes. You may be due for extenders.

[jmorrow]

I haven't checked the fluid level yet. I just replaced the fluid about 600 mile ago and I haven't noticed any leaks. The clutch seems to be shifting fine (no slipping). The only time I can here it whine is when I let of the throttle and the whine is loud enough that my wifle could here it when she was behind me on my Nomad. I didn't think about something between the tire and fender, I'll check that out tomorrow and also check the cam chains and fluid level. I thought of the cam chains but, it was too hot to mess with when I got home. Thanks Eric and Ring for your input.

[jmorrow]

Checked the FD fluid level, spark plug tubes, and for debris in fender and all was good. I put the Nomad back on the Jack, started it up. put it in 3rd gear and it does make a whine/buzzing noise even before I let off throttle. I put my hand on the right lower end where the clutch is and felt a vibrating buzz, which I felt the vibrating on the left side also. It did shift good going down the highway on the way home (no slipping). I was going to put new tires on tomorrow. I have another final drive, I'll change it out and check the drive shaft and if that doesn't cure it I'll tear into the clutch and check it out.

[MAS Tequila]

Sounds like the front bevel gear.

MT

[lomax]

I agree with MT. The symptoms you describe could be the first sign of the front bevel gear bearing going out. It can get worse in a hurry or last for quite some time. Other symptoms to watch for are problems with the hydraulic clutch. The bearing can heat up the housing to the point where the clutch fluid can boil and the clutch quits working. Try rolling the bike with the engine off and listen for clicking noises from the bevel gear. If this is the problem, the fix is relatively easy in that just replacing the bearing might be all thats needed. If run to long, the housing can be damaged and then the repair is a lot more money. I hope its something else! :)

[jmorrow]

Thanks, Mt & Lomax. I do believe that is where the noise is coming from. With the Nomad on the jack I turned the rear wheel by hand, there was some resistance and a clicking noise coming from the bevel gear area. I also put my Nomad on the jack and turned the wheel , everything was smooth, quite, & without any resistance. The clutch was working good yesterday, maybe it's not damaged-my wife first noticed the noise about 30 mile from home when we came upon a stop at an intersection and it was very noticeable when I rode the Nomad to listen. I'll get my service manual and start working my way into it this afternoon. Thanks again.

[macmac]

Originally Posted by MAS Tequila

Sounds like the front bevel gear.

MT

Yes it does.... mechanics stethascopes are cheap, and or a long ratchet extention can be used to listen with. Try that both running and not running with a helper to turn the wheel in neutral not running.

When running if this is a cold start you may find the rear wheel will stiff turn a bit for a while, listen that way too if you can.

Also try to hear the U Joint.

A part to get is the rubber boot bevel gear to drive shaft. I noticed yesterday mine is drying out and is going to split open sooner than later.

To change it one must bring the swing arm down, and there is a good bet you will be bring the swing arm down.

Other parts for the swing arm service are 2 new swing arm seals, 2 head pipe gaskets for afeter market pipes and or one head pipe gasket for pipe 2 if the exhaust is stock, moly grease for the splines including the rear wheel spline, Marine grade chassis grease for the swing arm spacers, and a cotter pun for the rear axel nut.

If you find this is the bevel gear and bearing, do not ride the bike.

It can and has created FIRE by Friction.

[jmorrow]

Will do Mr. Maple Man. I did a swing arm service during the winter and all appeared good. I'll check the universal joint, rubber boot and all on my way to the bevel gear. Thanks for the advice.

[macmac]

I had the ideer that boot would last 10-12 years. I see that ideer wuz wrong..
chinsey for crap rubber parts I bet mackee in chinia.... duh

[jmorrow]

Well, looks like the bevel gear case may be trashed. It was full of metal shavings. I was hoping it would be the bearings in the gear that attaches to the drive shaft, but no such luck. Well looks like we'll be riding two-up for the summer.
A new bevel gear case assembly is almost $1600 bucks and it'll probably need the motor taken out and broke in half to replace the oil pump. I figure the oil pump is full of shavings. I wonder if the oil pump was even doing it job since the bearing went out.

[lomax]

Jim
I wouldn't be to quick to write off the oil pump. Keep in mind that the metal filings would have to get past the crankcase screen and the oil filter before they could get to the oil pump. There will be filings in the bottom end and a lot can be flushed out by shooting some solvents in from the drain plugs. Also several oil changes in succession will help get that stuff out. Not an ideal way to clean a crankcase out but is doable. If you watch ebay and ask on all Kawasaki forums, you may come up with a used bevel gear housing. I have heard of guys finding them. Good luck!

Mike

[macmac]

Ouch, Sorry news always sucks.. Lomax is right, about the screen, Pull it and see.

Is the case really bad, or just full of chips? What broke up, the bearing or the gear or both?

[jmorrow]

The case had alot of metal chips in it. I removed all I could in the area I accessed with a stick magnet. I'll flush everything before I repair it. I'll probably keep my eye out for a complete bevel gearcase assembly and if none becomes available I'll eventually purchase a new assembly. My place of employement is for sale, (new owners may replace all the salaried employees) so I'm going to have to wait and see what happens there before I spend alot of money.