Trying to help an HD owner.

[schoeney]

I have a buddy that is saving up to buy a Nomad and visits our website ocassionally. He has a new "friend"....real nice gal that has a 2006 Harley Fat Boy (OK I said she was nice...didn't say she was bright!...just kidding.)

Anyhow....she bought this bike brand new, rode it for a little while then rode to Sturgis in 2007, then after Sturgis parked it in the garage ever since....ughhhhhh. Has about 6000 miles on it.

I have not seen the bike but she says the battery is dead (expected). She thinks it needs replacing...not recharging.


Well I am concerned that if she replaces the battery without doing other things that it might cause damage when she attempts to start it. I don't want to ring up a bunch of expenses for her so I was thinking we should start with the basics (drain/replace gas, charge battery, change oil) then give it a try??

What would you experts (Mac, BD, Ring, CJ, etc) suggest we try and in what order would you do it before we gave it a crank. We have a had some very cold months (close to 15 deg) and many moist months since she shut it down in 2007.


I know I know...a good friend would have her bury it but we have already been down that path and she insists on bringing it back to life. I have already scolded her for letting it sit so long.

Once we get it running I am sure she will run down to the Kawasaki dealer and trade it in on a good bike (if she is as smart as I think she is )

Help for this lost soul would be appreciated.

[macmac]

Well, there is no need to get drastic and bury it.....

The oil change can wait untill after the engine runs warmed up a bit...

The gas should be dumped. That old gas will have lost any power by now... I have gas from last spring for my chain saw it works but not well.

Drain ALL the gas as best you can.

I don't know if this is carbed or injected.


If it is carbed drain some of the bad gas thru the carb drain, with out doing anything else! Just pull the drain plug in the float bowl, and open the gas tank cap so full air can go in.

The idea is to get dead fuel to flow as fast as possible to wash out crud.

Doing this a new white rag should be in the funnel to catch the dead fuel. That way you can get some idea of how many crudlings are in the gas.

Yes replace the battery. Unless it was on some float charger.

Look over the tires as they may be dry rotting. If so there will be 'Sun Cracks" on the side walls, which basicly makes them junk.

Lube everything, from the side stand to the shift linkage and back, including all cables.

Any brake fluids should be drained and changed.

The exhaust should be looked at as well as the air filter for no nests.

With fresh gas apx 2 gallons (no more) Add 3 cap fulls of Seafoam whether or not this is carbed or injected.

When she gets a new battery she must get one or another autofloat chargers, and I bought a new one yesterday at 19 and change.

This is the new shumaker and it has sulfation pulse capability, rated at 1.5 AMPS.

Install the pig tail with the battery.

Then see if the beast fires up. DO NOT use Ether! if you want to prime the intake use regular fuel. 1 year ago I would have said WD-40 as a substitute fuel, but no more I guess.

If you want to get fancy, pull the spark plugs and add a few drops of regula engine oil, no more than 6 per cly and turn the engine over with no plugs a few beats.

That will increase compression, and lube the valves seats and stems some. Seal rings and in general help the engine run better, but it will also make the exhaust smoke a bit, just expect it.

Let the engine idle easy and DO NOT REV the blooming thing....

Go for a short ride of maybe 8 miles, 4 out and 4 back, then change the oil and filter.

[macmac]

Oh I forgot.... Of it is anything like 15 degrees F heat the engine with a 500 watt utility lamp for no less than 1 hour, right under the engines oil pan, to heat the oil.

Then what is next for this bike in winter?

If it is to be stored I have another set of basic instructions. If it will be used you can leave at that with a full tank of gas..

[nomad561]

Very thorough Mac.
I hope there aren't any major problems with the HD and she gets out and starts riding again.

[schoeney]

Thanks Mac...you brought up many things I didn't think about. I guess that is another stack of pancakes I owe ya. Some day we will meet so I can pay up!

[macmac]

Well if I know what is going to happen, either way there is more instructions..

Winter storage for one and use for the other.

I think the valves are hand tool adjustable for one thing and about 6,000 miles is about where they should be checked for a lash.

Checking for lash is a good idea, and setting them then to spec if they are out is another good idea.

I am not sure if HD has gone to hydralic lifters or not, and there are too many kinds of engines now, for me to be sure.

Air/Oil Cooled engines require more adjustment due to the nature of the beast.

If they are hydralic then nothing needs to be checked, but if they are what I think then the lash should be checked.

Checking is just done with a feeler gauge with the piston you are checking at TDC. For these checks I prefer Go/No Go feeler gauges. Only if the lash is too tight do I adjust them, and that would be done with a cold engine.

I wouldn't be loosin anysleep over me getting pancakes... I jjust hope this year with 40 taps I can make 5 gallons of syrup. I will need 5 to 6 more buckets and taps for that, to make it happen..

Before with 22 taps and buckets I made 11 gallons, but as of late getting sap has been the hard part.

[snarleybill08]

do you think there is any help for hardley riders. i actually thought this morning, i ought to buy a new one. they are awesome looking. then i came to my senses and slapped the hell out of my self. thought i was going to have to go to the emergency room. lol, bill

[barrynfla]

Originally Posted by macmac

Well if I know what is going to happen, either way there is more instructions..

Winter storage for one and use for the other.

I think the valves are hand tool adjustable for one thing and about 6,000 miles is about where they should be checked for a lash.

Checking for lash is a good idea, and setting them then to spec if they are out is another good idea.

I am not sure if HD has gone to hydralic lifters or not, and there are too many kinds of engines now, for me to be sure.

Air/Oil Cooled engines require more adjustment due to the nature of the beast.

If they are hydralic then nothing needs to be checked, but if they are what I think then the lash should be checked.

Checking is just done with a feeler gauge with the piston you are checking at TDC. For these checks I prefer Go/No Go feeler gauges. Only if the lash is too tight do I adjust them, and that would be done with a cold engine.

I wouldn't be loosin anysleep over me getting pancakes... I jjust hope this year with 40 taps I can make 5 gallons of syrup. I will need 5 to 6 more buckets and taps for that, to make it happen..

Before with 22 taps and buckets I made 11 gallons, but as of late getting sap has been the hard part.

mac, as an FYI, the '06 Fat Boys have hydraulic lifters, both FI and carbed.

[ringadingh]

I think Macs advice should get it going again, Id probably crank it for a few seconds with the plug wires removed to get the oil circulated through the motor again, if its sat for a couple years the oil would have run off in the upper parts of the engine.
Check the carbs for leaks if it has them, sometimes the float bowl gaskets dry out if they have sat for a long time.