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Old 05-20-2009, 09:07 AM   #1
tazfl   tazfl is offline
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Owners Manual Info ???

hey everyone, I was sitting here just glancing through my owners manual (I was bored) when i came to the "maintenance and adjustment" section, page #103 to be exact. Now, I change my oil and filter every 3000 miles, I run regular old dino oil (20W-50). According to the chart in the owners manual here is the mileage that they recomend for oil & filter changes, to me this seems crazy.

600 miles
7,500 miles
15,000 miles
24,000 miles
30,000 miles

where the hell do they come up with these numbers?
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Old 05-20-2009, 03:08 PM   #2
Yellow Jacket   Yellow Jacket is offline
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Owners Manual Info ???

Their real interval numbers are in kilometers. Whoever did the conversions to miles screwed up converting 36,000 kilometers to 24,000 miles. It should actually have been 22K miles (22,369.4 miles).

Both the owners manual and the service manual have been translated from Japanese to English. There are many places where they did a very poor job.
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Old 05-20-2009, 03:36 PM   #3
phenrichs   phenrichs is offline
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Owners Manual Info ???

Don't worry about the mileage taz. Change it when it starts to look sh*tty or starts to make odd shifting noises.
 
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Old 05-21-2009, 12:06 AM   #4
tazfl   tazfl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow Jacket
Their real interval numbers are in kilometers. Whoever did the conversions to miles screwed up converting 36,000 kilometers to 24,000 miles. It should actually have been 22K miles (22,369.4 miles).

Both the owners manual and the service manual have been translated from Japanese to English. There are many places where they did a very poor job.
ahhhh ok, I didn't think about checking the accuracy of their conversion...that makes sense then. I was just curious, I'll be sticking with every 3000 miles...LOL
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Cobra slip on exhaust, Kuryakyn Alley Cat intake, Cobra FI2000 Fuel Processor, Quick release trunk, Front & rear crashbars powdercoated black, Paul Yaffee stealth 3 tag frame, Arlen Ness grips, Corbin seat, Custom pinstripping, Rear LED strip turn signals, Stock rear turnsignals / tagframe assembly removed
 
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Old 05-21-2009, 08:59 AM   #5
macmac   macmac is offline
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Do yerself a favor and change the rear gears oil at each or atleast everyother oil change too.

Thar's No Way that 6 measely ounces of gear oil is going to last 24,000 miles in this or the next lifetime....

Slip a 2x4 under the side stand to add gear oil and do not try to get more than 6 ounces in there. That 6.2 ounces is wrong!
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Old 05-21-2009, 10:26 AM   #6
ponch   ponch is offline
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I think the manual calls for 200 ml which is 6.7 fl oz.


Quote:
Originally Posted by macmac
Do yerself a favor and change the rear gears oil at each or atleast everyother oil change too.

Thar's No Way that 6 measely ounces of gear oil is going to last 24,000 miles in this or the next lifetime....

Slip a 2x4 under the side stand to add gear oil and do not try to get more than 6 ounces in there. That 6.2 ounces is wrong!
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Old 05-21-2009, 02:38 PM   #7
Yellow Jacket   Yellow Jacket is offline
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Yup, that's what the manual calls for. What the manual doesn't tell you is that that amount will overcome the seals and cause them to leak.

Mac, and others, are right.
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Old 05-21-2009, 03:44 PM   #8
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Hi,
Since the rear seal in the final drive went recently I am filling it when it is on the sidestand from now on (every 5,000 kilometres, with the engine oil change). That amounts to 2 maybe 3 changes a year for me. Changing the oil 3 times a year is a lot cheaper than doing the oil seal.
Anyone have a ring gear fail by running with a little less oil ? I doubt it.
 
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Old 05-21-2009, 06:10 PM   #9
macmac   macmac is offline
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A little less oil???? A 2x4 under the side stand flat way down is it... let it run out till no more will... Then antiseize the filler plug, and don't over tighten that plug....

I just did one of these changes on a bud's bike and bent my 1/2 infender washer up hard because some wanna be dealer tech got it wrong as too way over tight!
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Old 05-21-2009, 10:15 PM   #10
ponch   ponch is offline
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So do you fill it until it starts to come out?


Quote:
Originally Posted by macmac
A little less oil???? A 2x4 under the side stand flat way down is it... let it run out till no more will... Then antiseize the filler plug, and don't over tighten that plug....

I just did one of these changes on a bud's bike and bent my 1/2 infender washer up hard because some wanna be dealer tech got it wrong as too way over tight!
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Old 05-22-2009, 08:29 AM   #11
macmac   macmac is offline
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Yeah.... and then with the bike on the 2x4 flatest way down, let it drip till no more oil runs out the filler... So I don't try to get lots more in at a time, but i just did on Flavors bike by mistake.

I had pre cleaned the gear box first and so was able to catch rather a lot of my too much error back into his bottle. The rest I let drip awhile doing other things.
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Old 05-22-2009, 11:34 AM   #12
ponch   ponch is offline
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That's basically what I do, although I do look to see how much went in. I remember when I used to change the diff fluid in my trucks, it was the same way, fill it until it drips and you are done. Thanks.


Quote:
Originally Posted by macmac
Yeah.... and then with the bike on the 2x4 flatest way down, let it drip till no more oil runs out the filler... So I don't try to get lots more in at a time, but i just did on Flavors bike by mistake.

I had pre cleaned the gear box first and so was able to catch rather a lot of my too much error back into his bottle. The rest I let drip awhile doing other things.
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Old 05-22-2009, 12:12 PM   #13
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I haven't looked in my manual yet but reading this thread I was wondering what oil you guys use in the rear case?
 
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Old 05-22-2009, 01:56 PM   #14
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Wouldn't doing this on a 2X4 retain more oil in the rear end than doing it on the kick stand? If less oil is better why not on the kick stand? Just Pondering mac.
 
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Old 05-22-2009, 05:50 PM   #15
macmac   macmac is offline
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Well the book means level and plumb... So long as you do this oil change each time you change engine oil the bit less it probably ok for side stand only.

The little bit more on the 2x4 is still tipped over a smidgen, and so has to be less than the incorrect book spec.

Basicly the idea is to have as much oil as possible but not flood the seals which a lot of guys have done.

It is a dammned good idea to look in there and check when you think the level is right with a good flash lite because tyhere is a shelf machined in there that can fool you.

You want to look past that shelf and see the oil is right there even with that shelf!

My personal experience with seals is they drown, and begin to leak, when the case no matter what kind of case is over full.

IF 50% of leaks are bad seals the other 50% is over filled cases.

There is too many case leaks for me to consider it is all no more than bad seals.

Another thing that happens is oil grown higher in a case when it is hot. All oils do this even keroscene, so the level hot gets higher than the level and plumb book setting even with my specs on the 2x4, but not much.

I run a odd antique oil lamp made by Alladin, you can buy new ones, but mine are old. These hold apx 1 qt of K-1, and I run 4 of these in winter in my bed room everyday for both light and heat.

I store the oil cold and must be sure to leave 1/2" air space or the fuel runs into the burner and then all over the place as the oil warms in the room and in the lamp more.

Higher viscosity gear oil is going to rise up even more, and then the gears sling it all over the case anyway.

There is the addition of pressure building up as well, and anyone with a bad seal, or a drowned seal should be having a look at the breather vent to be sure no wasp built a nest in it.

The total ounces is a miserly amount of oil even at book spec. But to get 'more' in there is a big error.
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