Ideas on checking rear wheel alignment?

[Vulcan Bill]

This came up in another thread and I thought I would throw it out there in an attempt to get some ideas. Occasionally I get the overwhelming feeling my '05 1600 is not tracking straight. It feels like the rear end is pushing slightly to the right I have even consider putting a sheet metal or aluminum spacer in between the final drive and swingarm housing connection to bump the wheel slightly CCW (looking down from the top).
The first thing to do would be to take some sort of measurement to confirm the wheel is not straight.
Anybody have any ideas on how a guy might go about doing this?

BTW...I've noticed this long before I did the Harley front wheel mod.

[dshelly]

So are you saying that you think the top of the wheel is out of alignment vetically with the bottom ? Or like the camber on a car?

[Vulcan Bill]

No. Front to back. I was giving your pole idea (different thread) some thought. I could rig up one of those easy with some 1/2 inch conduit and a piece of all thread. Next tire change I may just do dat.

[redjay]

With the handlebars in the straight ahead position get a long straight edge and hold it against the rear tire (front to back). Get another person to measure from the straight edge to the front tire. Do the same thing on the other side of the bike. Measurement should be the same.

[Vulcan Bill]

I saw a guy do it with a string one time on a sport bike. He was very knowledgeable about suspensions so I doubt he would do it this way if it was half ass. Not sure if the vulcan would be the same- the swing arm shaft would have to be even on both sides (not offset) and there can't be anything get in the path of the string. Bear with me because I may not remember everything correctly:

He started by measuring the tread across the tire then divided by 2 to get the center line of the tire. He marked the center with a marker. He then positioned the mark so it was 90 degrees from the ground toward the rear (you could see the mark looking at the back of the bike if the fender wasn't on). He then taped a piece of string to the tire and pulled it tight to the center line of the swing arm pivot shaft. He would mark the string then pull it to the side and measure the length from the center line (this is why he used the string- he said it was easier to measure a string pulled straight out to the side then trying to measure across a rounded tread). Then repeat for the other side.

(This copied from another thread)

[cnc]

(This copied from another thread)

With regard to what you copied from the other thread. Interesting but how did he determine if the front wheel was positioned dead straight? If it was off even by a few degrees, it would make the measurement with the string useless.

A long straight edge might work but if the front and rear tires are of different widths it also may induce some error.

Maybe two straight edges, one on each side?

[redjay]

Different width tires front and back should make no difference when using a straight edge.
It is the measurement to the front tire from the straight edge you are interested in.

[cnc]

Different width tires front and back should make no difference when using a straight edge.
It is the measurement to the front tire from the straight edge you are interested in.

I disagree, put the straight edge and lay it parallel to the rear tire, if the front wheel is turned even one degree from straight ahead, your reading will be off and make the rear wheel appear out of line. I'm thinking with one down each side, measurement on both sides will confirm if any misalignment is the result of the rear wheel or the front wheel slightly turned.

[vulcanscott]

I would think something more like finding two points on each side of the frame cradle around the rear mounts and measure to the center of the rear axle on each side .Should tell You if the rear wheel is tracking with Bike .Just a :hmm: thought .

[ringadingh]

I'd check for sideplay in the swingarm, mine had about a 1/8" gap which I shimmed to make it stop moving back and forth.

[Vulcan Bill]

With regard to what you copied from the other thread. Interesting but how did he determine if the front wheel was positioned dead straight? If it was off even by a few degrees, it would make the measurement with the string useless.

A long straight edge might work but if the front and rear tires are of different widths it also may induce some error.

Maybe two straight edges, one on each side?

I thought the same. It would be very difficult to get an accurate measurement using this technique. It might be better to have the bike up straight, use a plumb bob to make a center mark on ground centered on the middle of the radiator, then placing the straight edge against the rear tire measure to that mark from the straight edge from each side.
But how do you know the bike is perfectly straight? :ohno:

[Vulcan Bill]

I'd check for sideplay in the swingarm, mine had about a 1/8" gap which I shimmed to make it stop moving back and forth.
It has been 24K since the last swingarm service. I intend to grease the bearings again my next tire change and will check it again.

[VulcanE]

I know on Harley's (the one my friend rides anyway, an Electra Glide Classic) there is an adjustment to pivot the engine in the frame to make the bike track straight, something to do with a V-twin's centrifugal force, sorta like a gyro.
I have 2 final drives, the black one that came on the bike, and the polished aluminum one off a Classic. Which ever one I use, everything is the same as far as the feel of the bike, and the way it tracks. Both of the final drives do have "shims" that fit between the final drive and the drive shaft tube, and they are different between the two. I'm sure there is a "number" from the face of the final drive where it mates to the drive shaft tube, and the center-line of the hole the axle goes thru, and those shims make it hit that "number".
IMHO though, the only way to check what your wanting to check, would be like the method Dave mentioned, a way to measure from the center of the pivot rod, to the center of the axle on both sides, and that is assuming the pivot pin of the swing arm is perpendicular to the tracking line.

[dshelly]

For wheel alignment on a car they make digital measuring devices that attach to the wheels. Wonder if there is such a thing for motorcycles?

On my old chain drive bikes which have a bolt that runs clear through the swingarm, alignment is easy to check with the method i mentioned earlier. Not sure how you would do that on the shaft drive bikes.

[cnc]

I thought the same. It would be very difficult to get an accurate measurement using this technique. It might be better to have the bike up straight, use a plumb bob to make a center mark on ground centered on the middle of the radiator, then placing the straight edge against the rear tire measure to that mark from the straight edge from each side.
But how do you know the bike is perfectly straight? :ohno:

Bill you got me thinking about this more than I should.:D
I'm thinking a laser level.might be useful, not the short little kind, I have one that is about 18in long. If the bike is dead upright and the front wheel were removed then this might work well. Position the bike facing a wall, actually the further back the better as any misalignment will show more the further away. Maybe 10 feet.
If you could find and mark two points under the frame that are dead center, rad and swing arm area, you could lay the straight edge of the level along this line with the laser on. Have a helper mark the exact laser spot on the wall with a marker. Draw a level line horizontally about a foot in each direction where this mark is. Next lay the level along one side of the rear tire bringing the level up or down till the laser rests on this horizontal line, again mark the spot. Next lay the level along the other side of the tire bringing the laser up or down to rest on the line, mark that spot.
You now have 3 marks along a horizontal line, measure the distance between each outer mark to the center mark and you should be able to see any mid alignment and which way to go to correct.

[Vulcan Bill]

Hmmm, a laser. Now you really got me thinking. This thread is turning into an interesting puzzle.
Let me ask this. If you took your bike to a dealer and said you suspect the back wheel is not perfectly aligned how would he check it?
( Stand by for the incomeing Fuzz E. Bear jokes http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/images/icons/ornwink.gif)

[cnc]

Well I bet the Honda shop that I get my tires at would have the tools and know how. They are set up just like a big car dealership, real factory certified mechanics and rows of bays to work on bikes, etc etc. as a matter of fact the owner has several car dealerships as well.
Where I bought my Nomad most everything is, "gee, I never heard of that but bring it around in the morning and we will have a look" kind of place.

[Mongo PHUMC]

With regard to what you copied from the other thread. Interesting but how did he determine if the front wheel was positioned dead straight? If it was off even by a few degrees, it would make the measurement with the string useless.

A long straight edge might work but if the front and rear tires are of different widths it also may induce some error.

Maybe two straight edges, one on each side?

This is for finding the rear wheel is inline with the frame. Has nothing to do with the front tire.

A true alignment plate for motorcycles sets the bike on it's side and they take measurements based of the frame. This also tells them if the frame is straight.

[macmac]

Bill, chances are your bike IS out at the rear end. Damned near all of of the 1500 and 1600's are. The rear swing arm uses seals as thrust washers. My 1500 had 0.138 inch of slop when you shoved the swing arm hard over from the right side of the bike as seated. if you do that and have the rear wheel off the ground and push hard or lever it with a padded large bar then measure with great care where the swing arm long bolt is and you see the glimmer of the spacer, make a paper recording, then PULL the swing arm back at you and measure again with care you may find a large number as this IS 0.138 is BIG. lots of slop. Most bikes have a way to adjust this and more or less the industry spec for slop there is 0.002'. new seals can help. Some guys have made nylon washers to fit, and others have brass washers to fit, but all of these also eat the seal back sides. My 1500 used to sort of clunk in curves and then clunk back in the opposite curve.

[Vulcan Bill]

^^^^
Very interesting mac. My next tire change is going to include greasing the swingarm and shaft and maybe new wheel bearings and a brake caliper rebuild. Looks like I have something else to add to the list now.

[cnc]

This is for finding the rear wheel is inline with the frame. Has nothing to do with the front tire.

A true alignment plate for motorcycles sets the bike on it's side and they take measurements based of the frame. This also tells them if the frame is straight.

Guess I didn't see any reference to it being the rear wheel he taped the string to and when the explanation said he stretched the string from the back of the wheel to the center of the swing arm pivot well again I assumed since doing that on the rear wheel would mean the string bending around the wheel, he was some how doing it off the front.

[macmac]

^^^^
Very interesting mac. My next tire change is going to include greasing the swing arm and shaft and maybe new wheel bearings and a brake caliper rebuild. Looks like I have something else to add to the list now.

Then if time is of little issue set the swing arm in with new seals and the long bolt to tight spec and with nothing else. All new grease all clean and just the naked swing arm and new seals. Still there will be slop. What ever else is made must be made accurately and the full measurement must be divided in 1/2 and a shim installed on both sides of the swing arm, which in theory is straight then. The ID of what ever must fit the spacer OD. The OD of what ever shim must be larger than the seal OD by a smidgen 0.020 or so, so it it can bear on the swing arm surface. After that it is as good as it gets and will only loosen over use and time. Bad engineering there IMO. This is what we get with the clean hands engineers, that never got a go ball of grease under a finger nail and don't seem to understand basic industrial stds :shrug:

[ringadingh]

^^^ I agree Bill.

[Jllm02199]

This came up in another thread and I thought I would throw it out there in an attempt to get some ideas. Occasionally I get the overwhelming feeling my '05 1600 is not tracking straight. It feels like the rear end is pushing slightly to the right I have even consider putting a sheet metal or aluminum spacer in between the final drive and swingarm housing connection to bump the wheel slightly CCW (looking down from the top).
The first thing to do would be to take some sort of measurement to confirm the wheel is not straight.
Anybody have any ideas on how a guy might go about doing this?

BTW...I've noticed this long before I did the Harley front wheel mod.

I found that my 02 was doing the same. I ordered spacers for mine and spaced the rear end back. The spacers are available from Kawasaki.

[Vulcan Bill]

I found that my 02 was doing the same. I ordered spacers for mine and spaced the rear end back. The spacers are available from Kawasaki.

What do you mean by "space the rear end back"?

[Boscoe]

The rear wheel alignment is an interesting topic. On one hand, it must not make too much difference if it is out of alignment, as all most folks do at the most is to try to roughly line up the marks at the swing arm axle belt/chain tightener bolts. On the other hand, it seems that measuring the rear wheel alignment shouldn't be too difficult, and this is one of those things that should be easily done and routine. With the availability of cheap lasers for hanging pictures and shelves straight and level, one would think that the tools for properly aligning the rear wheel of a motorcycle would be cheap and easily available too.

[Jllm02199]

What do you mean by "space the rear end back"?

Shims that go between the rear end and the swing arm.

9218092180-1365SHIM,T=0.15
AR

$5.37 http://www.ronayers.com/App_Themes/RonAyers/images/add2cartFiche.png 92180A92180-1366SHIM,T=0.50
AR

$5.37 http://www.ronayers.com/App_Themes/RonAyers/images/add2cartFiche.png 92180B92180-1367SHIM,T=0.60
AR

$5.37 http://www.ronayers.com/App_Themes/RonAyers/images/add2cartFiche.png 92180C92180-1368SHIM,T=0.70
AR

$5.37 http://www.ronayers.com/App_Themes/RonAyers/images/add2cartFiche.png 92180D92180-1369SHIM,T=0.80
AR

$5.37 http://www.ronayers.com/App_Themes/RonAyers/images/add2cartFiche.png 92180E92180-1370SHIM,T=0.90
AR

$5.37 http://www.ronayers.com/App_Themes/RonAyers/images/add2cartFiche.png 92180F92180-1371SHIM,T=1.00
AR

$5.37 http://www.ronayers.com/App_Themes/RonAyers/images/add2cartFiche.png 92180G92180-1372SHIM,T=1.20
AR

$5.37

[Vulcan Bill]

^^^^
Excellent! Copied and saved. Thanks for posting this. The fact that these are available from Kawasaki tells me swingarm slop is a common problem. and is probably the issue with my bike. Are you sure that the decimal point shouldn't be moved one digit to the left though? These shims start at 1/2 inch and graduate to 1.2 inches. Seems way to big. :hmm:

[Byron]

i too think the alignment on these are off

i set up the belt with a laser and the marks for the wheel were off by almost 1 mark

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350954196509?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT#ht_2808wt_995

[Boscoe]

Hmmmm...

http://www.proaligner.com/

or

http://thomasperformanceparts.com/inc/sdetail/436

[VulcanE]

^^^^
Excellent! Copied and saved. Thanks for posting this. The fact that these are available from Kawasaki tells me swingarm slop is a common problem. and is probably the issue with my bike. Are you sure that the decimal point shouldn't be moved one digit to the left though? These shims start at 1/2 inch and graduate to 1.2 inches. Seems way to big. :hmm:

Bill, these are the shims/spacers that go in between the final drive and the swing arm where it mounts onto the swing arm. Kawasaki doesn't make anything for the swing arm slop left and right. You'll have to measure the way Mac described, and make or get 2 spacers that equal the total amount of slop minus about .002". A few years ago, I cut me 2 out of a piece of stainless on a EDM wire machine. I scuffed the rubber off the outside of the swing arm seals, and filled the space with the stainless spacers, and to this day, I still have zero slop, if I remember right, my shims were .063" each, and they completely filled all the slop, I didn't leave the .002" clearance.

[Vulcan Bill]

^^^^
Okay Cliff. Understood. Thanks

[Boscoe]

Is the wheel alignment more critical, or is the belt alignment?

[macmac]

Shims that go between the rear end and the swing arm.

9218092180-1365SHIM,T=0.15
AR

$5.37 http://www.ronayers.com/App_Themes/RonAyers/images/add2cartFiche.png 92180A92180-1366SHIM,T=0.50
AR

$5.37 http://www.ronayers.com/App_Themes/RonAyers/images/add2cartFiche.png 92180B92180-1367SHIM,T=0.60
AR

$5.37 http://www.ronayers.com/App_Themes/RonAyers/images/add2cartFiche.png 92180C92180-1368SHIM,T=0.70
AR

$5.37 http://www.ronayers.com/App_Themes/RonAyers/images/add2cartFiche.png 92180D92180-1369SHIM,T=0.80
AR

$5.37 http://www.ronayers.com/App_Themes/RonAyers/images/add2cartFiche.png 92180E92180-1370SHIM,T=0.90
AR

$5.37 http://www.ronayers.com/App_Themes/RonAyers/images/add2cartFiche.png 92180F92180-1371SHIM,T=1.00
AR

$5.37 http://www.ronayers.com/App_Themes/RonAyers/images/add2cartFiche.png 92180G92180-1372SHIM,T=1.20
AR

$5.37
I can not view these images... I am not smart enough to know what to do WHAT shims? Someone is making shims now? I need to see what this is..

I'll be dammed while i can't see these i can see how thick they are.


hmmmmmmmm http://www.ronayers.com/App_Themes/RonAyers/images/add2cartFiche.png

Well that didn't work......... AND 1.20 thick? and 1.0 thick down to 1 friggin half inch thick? Now I have even less of any idea than before........

There might be say 0.008 slop with the bolt tight and new seals certainly no friggin inch. I am totally lost

[macmac]

Is the wheel alignment more critical, or is the belt alignment?

15 and 1600's have drive shafts. The rear gear set has shims to set the drive shaft right but you can't just add shims there on a whim to set a wheel straight all willy nilly like. The far side of the axle is fixed in the swing arm. maybe with fudge you could get 0.002 sway some how over there, but it would have no meaning. It would be a great way to pass a few frosties and maybe impress the women :lol:

SHIMS for the long bolt on the swing arm????? Oh yeah I am so all over that idea!!!! There should be a RECALL. What i want to know is How the hell does anyone know what set of shims they need before they order. and are these factory? A fix that should never have needed a fix. This problem has been my best pet peeve since 04 on my 01 Nad and I am really bored with the pet and would just love to shoot it.

[Vulcan Bill]

^^^^
Mac, these numbers are for shim spacer plates that go between the shaft hosing and final drive. Aparrently they adjust the wheel alignment by forcing the final drive back a bit. According to the previous post these are available from kawasaki.
But still....1/2 inch to 1.2 inches. Thats hugh.

[Mongo PHUMC]

^^^^
Mac, these numbers are for shim spacer plates that go between the shaft hosing and final drive. Aparrently they adjust the wheel alignment by forcing the final drive back a bit. According to the previous post these are available from kawasaki.
But still....1/2 inch to 1.2 inches. Thats hugh.

Probably in mm. So from .15mm (.006") to 1.2mm (.047")

[macmac]

^^^^
Mac, these numbers are for shim spacer plates that go between the shaft hosing and final drive. Aparrently they adjust the wheel alignment by forcing the final drive back a bit. According to the previous post these are available from kawasaki.
But still....1/2 inch to 1.2 inches. Thats hugh.

These go where the 3 shim pack is? That can't be. And then these numbers appear to be in inches not metric. I have no idea.. What IF the wheel is pointed the other way? You can't shorten the shaft tube either? Something is up and i clearly don't understand......

[macmac]

Probably in mm. So from .15mm (.006") to 1.2mm (.047")

Who says the rear wheel is always tipped off so that adding shims on one side only will work? The 3 ship pack so far as I know is for the drive shaft pre load and spacing so it doesn't bind the drive shaft.. What happens if the axle is out from the other side and the shaft tube with no shims needs to be shortened?

The idea is just cockadoodle nuts as i see it, A better idea is a long bolt made in italy with a bend and off set, or a bolt made like a crank shaft :lol: over there they make bolts like that for holes with stripped threads tappers holes both waz, A 2 prong bolt for 2 holes when you drilled out the wrong bolt but that bolt has one head. Bolts that are straight but have a 2 stage shank say the first part is 10mm OD and then it steps down to 8mm near the head for bolt holes that shrink :lmao:

Until further clarification :bs: Sir

[Byron]

Hmmmm...

http://www.proaligner.com/

or

http://thomasperformanceparts.com/inc/sdetail/436

i have a profi cat

the belt tool like the thomas one! when i set up the belt the marks on
the swing arm are almost 1 notch off. what got me started on this is
belt ware i could see a fray on the outside of the belt after 500 miles
of riding, the second thing i think is tire ware, if the engin is off in the
frame then you are going to mess up the belt, by going on the marks
on the swing arm, if you laser the belt perfect then if the engin is off
you will have the tire ware.
i think the only way to do it the right way would be to set belt perfect
then check wheels with a profi b.a.t. if they are off then you will have to
shim motor and do it again.

[Vulcan Bill]

The light bulb just went on. If those shimes are available from Kawasaki those numbers have to be mm instead of inches. Kaw doesn't build anything using the American System of measurements.

[macmac]

i have a profi cat

the belt tool like the thomas one! when i set up the belt the marks on
the swing arm are almost 1 notch off. what got me started on this is
belt ware i could see a fray on the outside of the belt after 500 miles
of riding, the second thing i think is tire ware, if the engin is off in the
frame then you are going to mess up the belt, by going on the marks
on the swing arm, if you laser the belt perfect then if the engin is off
you will have the tire ware.
i think the only way to do it the right way would be to set belt perfect
then check wheels with a profi b.a.t. if they are off then you will have to
shim motor and do it again.

The whole problem with a belt tool for 1500's and 1600 Nomads is there is no belt, These are shaft drive :lmao:

[Mongo PHUMC]

Who says the rear wheel is always tipped off so that adding shims on one side only will work? The 3 ship pack so far as I know is for the drive shaft pre load and spacing so it doesn't bind the drive shaft.. What happens if the axle is out from the other side and the shaft tube with no shims needs to be shortened?

middle rant deleted

Until further clarification :bs: Sir


I don't believe those shims are for the alignment of the wheel to the rest of the bike. I believe it has to do with the axle shaft and final drive alignment in the swingarm. If you understood machining practices the shims make perfect sense. They probably have a machine length of +.000 and - up to the 1.2mm. That way it gives them room to shim. Yes, you are probably right in that it is for driveshaft spacing or just the final drive to axle length.

Is it possible to change wheel alignment with the shims? Possibly. But, you could run the risk of putting the driveshaft in a bind. It doesn't have 2 u-joints like a vehicle so the final drive end needs to be properly aligned or you run the risk of damaging the splines.

[minst7877]

^^^^
Excellent! Copied and saved. Thanks for posting this. The fact that these are available from Kawasaki tells me swingarm slop is a common problem. and is probably the issue with my bike. Are you sure that the decimal point shouldn't be moved one digit to the left though? These shims start at 1/2 inch and graduate to 1.2 inches. Seems way to big. :hmm:

I would assume that these are metric numbers. 0.50 would equal about 0.020 inches.

DC

[VulcanE]

If you understood machining practices the shims make perfect sense. They probably have a machine length of +.000 and - up to the 1.2mm. That way it gives them room to shim.


That is exactly what I was refering to back in post #13 when I said ("I'm sure there is a "number" from the face of the final drive where it mates to the drive shaft tube, and the center-line of the hole the axle goes thru, and those shims make it hit that "number".)

[macmac]

I don't believe those shims are for the alignment of the wheel to the rest of the bike. I believe it has to do with the axle shaft and final drive alignment in the swingarm. If you understood machining practices the shims make perfect sense. They probably have a machine length of +.000 and - up to the 1.2mm. That way it gives them room to shim. Yes, you are probably right in that it is for driveshaft spacing or just the final drive to axle length.

Is it possible to change wheel alignment with the shims? Possibly. But, you could run the risk of putting the driveshaft in a bind. It doesn't have 2 u-joints like a vehicle so the final drive end needs to be properly aligned or you run the risk of damaging the splines.

What? You don't like itailian bolts :D When i get up in the morning i don't see no body and about by bed time it is still the same, so I rant and rave around heya' when it suits me. Some people like it. :shrug:

[Mongo PHUMC]

That is exactly what I was refering to back in post #13 when I said ("I'm sure there is a "number" from the face of the final drive where it mates to the drive shaft tube, and the center-line of the hole the axle goes thru, and those shims make it hit that "number".)

Sorry, I must have read over that post. I wont let it happen again.

I'm still not sure if those shims have to do with wheel alignment or just the drive shaft spacing. I would have to rip the bike apart to look. Weather is getting nice...you will have to wait till winter. LOL ;)

[Mongo PHUMC]

What? You don't like itailian bolts :D

I try to stick to Italian women. They are WAY more entertaining! :D

[macmac]

I try to stick to Italian women. They are WAY more entertaining! :D

Women? At my age thar's not a whole lot of point is wondering about the womens. Didn't know they made bolts fer um either. Go figure :cheers:

[VulcanE]

Sorry, I must have read over that post. I wont let it happen again.

I'm still not sure if those shims have to do with wheel alignment or just the drive shaft spacing. I would have to rip the bike apart to look. Weather is getting nice...you will have to wait till winter. LOL ;)


Don't worry 'bout it, you phrased it better than I did, but I do think those shims are to get the axle perpendicular to the center line of the bike/drive-line.

[macmac]

Don't worry 'bout it, you phrased it better than I did, but I do think those shims are to get the axle perpendicular to the center line of the bike/drive-line.

I am still at a loss here Bill. My 06 has the required shim pack it had from the factory, which are FOR SURE spacing the dive shaft pre load correctly. I am not about to just go take them out to look but i will when I install and new car tire soon. If i recall these are not very think at all in the first place. I don't believe all 3 stacked up make 0.50 mm.

Once more i have no really good idea of what the hell we are talking about. So far as i know there are NO shims for straightening the rear tire and if this is for that it is a terrible way to do it. What if the tire is off from the other side? LOL

If the tire is off then the swing arm is off and then the fix is back there but with out critical welding skills there is just no way to do this. I maintain that this is ALL BS on a shaft driven bike. Now chain drive belt drive Hell yeah but still not usually with shims when a bolt and lock nut do it faster and better.

Mogo yeah I know TMI :D

[Vulcan Bill]

Gotta keep in mind too that tweaking the wheel sideway also tweaks the brake rotor inside the caliper. The caliper floats in and out but has no sideways give so having the rotor misalignment can't be a a sound mechanical thing to do.
As it is right now the best idea I've heard so far is to inspect my swingarm for sideways slop and fab up some shims to eliminate it if there is some.
This has been interesting thread. Thanks for all the contributions.

[macmac]

Gotta keep in mind too that tweaking the wheel sideway also tweaks the brake rotor inside the caliper. The caliper floats in and out but has no sideways give so having the rotor misalignment can't be a a sound mechanical thing to do.
As it is right now the best idea I've heard so far is to inspect my swingarm for sideways slop and fab up some shims to eliminate it if there is some.
This has been interesting thread. Thanks for all the contributions.

yes and over kill if a problem that doesn't exist unless the swing arm was bent in a crash, or the frame was, but these frames can't bend much with out cracking / breaking, since they are CAST. I maintain there is no shims for alignment, but I still don't know what shims these are. My whole shim pack doesn't add up to the smallest one for sale on line. This is the kind of thing where one sheep does something for a no good reason and then all the sheep follow suit.

Like the girlieboy a few years ago who was told engine sludge was killing his few months old Mustang Ford. So the brain drained the bad oil and left the drain plug out, then started the engine and ran a garden hose with 'clean fresh water' into the oil filler hole, and when the water reached the crank shaft the engine case blew up and the crank was battered to bits. Well he sure fixed that oil sludge problem alrighty.. The bad part was no more sheep followed that i heard of :ohno:

[Mongo PHUMC]

I am still at a loss here Bill. My 06 has the required shim pack it had from the factory, which are FOR SURE spacing the dive shaft pre load correctly. I am not about to just go take them out to look but i will when I install and new car tire soon. If i recall these are not very think at all in the first place. I don't believe all 3 stacked up make 0.50 mm.


Mac,

Those part numbers are in mm. Kawasaki doesn't show anything in SAE.

So the shims come from .15mm up to 1.2mm. So your .5 mm sounds about right-middle of the road so to speak. :D

[macmac]

Yeah, that's my best guess anyway. So far I have only seen the factory shims when i was changing tires or greasing the swing arm. The only attention I paid was to clean them. I didn't need to know what the spec was because the shims are still flat. BUT if these are THE Shims people are really talking about to adjust 'toe' for lack of a better word, then it's NUTS.
I know you don't like long wordy bs so I will stop :D