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Old 03-28-2013, 04:42 PM   #1
happywanderer   happywanderer is offline
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Thanks to Joe "Chuckster" Norris

Posted up on VROC - but thanks Joe. The cam chain tensioner extenders went in with no issues.

For others - I have an '07 and it only had 14,000 on the ODO - seemed low to be out of travel on the tensioners, but I'm glad I checked. Should be good for a while - I hope.

Doing in the ear shave (removing left dog bowl and crossover tube) does make the process A WHOLE LOT easier. But getting that crossover tube out is a PAIN.

To get the original metal bits off the tensioner rod, I used a dremel and VERY carefully cut down until I could pop it off with a screwdriver. I was EXTREMELY careful with the dremel ... but if you don't have a steady hand, I'd recommend at table vice and hacksaw.

I did make sure I was at TDC compression for each cyclinder I was working on. Getting that spring off the floorboard was a PAIN as well. I ended up putting the pin for the floorboard in backwards when I reassembled. This allows you to remove the pin without having to remove the spring.


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Old 03-28-2013, 04:55 PM   #2
spoon059   spoon059 is offline
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I had a FANTASTIC experience with Joe when I bought an intake from him last fall. Great product, great customer service, great follow up help and great prices. I hope to buy some more products from him soon and enthusiastically recommend him to anyone!
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:47 PM   #3
manban9888   manban9888 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by happywanderer View Post
Posted up on VROC - but thanks Joe. The cam chain tensioner extenders went in with no issues.

For others - I have an '07 and it only had 14,000 on the ODO - seemed low to be out of travel on the tensioners, but I'm glad I checked. Should be good for a while - I hope.

Doing in the ear shave (removing left dog bowl and crossover tube) does make the process A WHOLE LOT easier. But getting that crossover tube out is a PAIN.

To get the original metal bits off the tensioner rod, I used a dremel and VERY carefully cut down until I could pop it off with a screwdriver. I was EXTREMELY careful with the dremel ... but if you don't have a steady hand, I'd recommend at table vice and hacksaw.

I did make sure I was at TDC compression for each cyclinder I was working on. Getting that spring off the floorboard was a PAIN as well. I ended up putting the pin for the floorboard in backwards when I reassembled. This allows you to remove the pin without having to remove the spring.
I think that's the earliest I've ever heard anyone needing cam chain tensioner extenders. Was your engine making extra noise? Were there scratch marks on the spark plug tube? How many clicks did they have left?
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Old 03-28-2013, 06:26 PM   #4
recumbentbob   recumbentbob is offline
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Wow, I have 30,000 miles and have 3 clicks left. I should be good until next year.
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Old 03-28-2013, 06:30 PM   #5
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I too must say that Joe rocks, I got the Cam Chain Tension extenders, Bar extenders. Single plate intake kit w/ Reed valve plates, and the original Handle bar mounts since the P.O. of my bike had put on some funky angled extenders that actually hit the Speedo console and put dents in it.

Joe was friendly on the phone helping me figure out what I needed and got it to me fast.

Keep on keeping on.
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Old 03-28-2013, 07:48 PM   #6
Ggben   Ggben is offline
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I bought a set of lowers from Joe. Good value, arrived quickly and very good quality.
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Old 03-28-2013, 08:08 PM   #7
Kybenz   Kybenz is offline
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Originally Posted by manban9888 View Post
I think that's the earliest I've ever heard anyone needing cam chain tensioner extenders. Was your engine making extra noise? Were there scratch marks on the spark plug tube? How many clicks did they have left?
Put mine in at 12k, checked them just for kicks and they were fully extended. Got the bike with 5200 miles on it and between there and the 12k did NOT ride hard. Granted I was surprised in light of some of the miles I have seen these go before needing replaced.
And yes Joe is 'da man, I have his intake kit as well as the extenders and I have even had him call me when I had a question on the install of the intake kit.

Last edited by Kybenz; 03-28-2013 at 08:11 PM.
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Old 03-28-2013, 08:16 PM   #8
radco   radco is offline
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Joe does top shelf work, Im afraid to install them myself,but will give them to the new owner if my Nomad sells this year!
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:37 PM   #9
manban9888   manban9888 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Kybenz View Post
Put mine in at 12k, checked them just for kicks and they were fully extended. Got the bike with 5200 miles on it and between there and the 12k did NOT ride hard. Granted I was surprised in light of some of the miles I have seen these go before needing replaced.
And yes Joe is 'da man, I have his intake kit as well as the extenders and I have even had him call me when I had a question on the install of the intake kit.
Damn...that's damn little miles for them to be fully extended. My engine is still pretty quiet but might take a look after the national rally. I bought hand wind deflectors and lowers from Joe and they were excellent quality for a great price. When the time comes I'll buy the extenders from him too.
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Old 03-29-2013, 12:19 PM   #10
happywanderer   happywanderer is offline
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If you are going to just check them - it is a damn PAIN to put all the pieces back in. VERY little clearance to do it with the tensioner bodies still on the bike.

I would recommend pulling the tensioners to check them personally.

More involved - yep, but in the end easier to get all those parts back in correctly without having to worry about accidently pushing the tensioner rod in as you're trying to force that damn spring and ball bearing cage down to the body of the tensioner body.

And - I did have a slight noise of decel when I would let the rpms dip. Sounded like metal brushing lightly on metal. Not grinding or sawing. Just lightly brushnig. Wasnt there at idle and wasn't there at speed - just at a very certain RPM range (around 1500-1700) while decelerating with clutch out.

At first I thought it was the dreaded bevel gear going out - nope, did a full rear end service and it was still there. Then I suspected front brake rotor might be slightly warped and causing the sound. Nope, did a brake cleaing and checked rotors - all good. Then I got to thinking about the cam chain.

I haven't checked the spark plug tube as I had no tool to pull it. Once I figure out something that will work at HomeDepot, I'll pull them and check if it was rubbing significantly.

Oh - and I forgot to check how many clicks they had left. They were a full 5/16" deep in the tensioner body by my very precise measuring technique (sharpie and a small peice of wood dowel rod).

Last edited by happywanderer; 03-29-2013 at 12:33 PM.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:29 PM   #11
Rasta   Rasta is offline

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Quote:
Originally Posted by happywanderer View Post
If you are going to just check them - it is a damn PAIN to put all the pieces back in. VERY little clearance to do it with the tensioner bodies still on the bike.

I would recommend pulling the tensioners to check them personally.


I haven't checked the spark plug tube as I had no tool to pull it. Once I figure out something that will work at HomeDepot, I'll pull them and check if it was rubbing significantly.
I would suggest if you are going to pull the tensioner body out to check, that you follow the procedure of as though you are replacing them. The reason is, when you go to put it back in and don’t have the cylinder at the right position you might have it spin on you causing it to jump timing as it did to tomm.

The other thing is, to remove the tube you can make your own tool like I did. I don’t remember the size of the bolt head, but I got one that was a little bigger than the tube. ground down the corners so it would fit into the tube. Got two nuts to fit the bolt, locked them into each other and that’s my tool.
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:42 AM   #12
Kybenz   Kybenz is offline
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happywanderer;500015]If you are going to just check them - it is a damn PAIN to put all the pieces back in. VERY little clearance to do it with the tensioner bodies still on the bike.

I would recommend pulling the tensioners to check them personally.

More involved - yep, but in the end easier to get all those parts back in correctly without having to worry about accidently pushing the tensioner rod in as you're trying to force that damn spring and ball bearing cage down to the body of the tensioner body.

Couldn't agree more, the first time I checked mine I managed to get the large spring entwined inside the roller bearing between the ball and cage.



I haven't checked the spark plug tube as I had no tool to pull it. Once I figure out something that will work at HomeDepot, I'll pull them and check if it was rubbing significantly.


This is what I used for the tube removal.
Model # T141 Internet # 100015414 Store SKU # 639305
www.homedepot.com

Last edited by Kybenz; 03-30-2013 at 09:44 AM.
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:55 PM   #13
happywanderer   happywanderer is offline
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[QUOTE/]

This is what I used for the tube removal.
Model # T141 Internet # 100015414 Store SKU # 639305
www.homedepot.com[/QUOTE]


That's brilliant. Thanks for posting that up.
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:57 PM   #14
happywanderer   happywanderer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasta View Post
I would suggest if you are going to pull the tensioner body out to check, that you follow the procedure of as though you are replacing them. The reason is, when you go to put it back in and donít have the cylinder at the right position you might have it spin on you causing it to jump times as it did to tomm.
Yep - definitely worth it to make sure you are at TDC compression - takes a few extra minutes, but piece of mind goes a long way.


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