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Old 10-20-2012, 09:55 AM   #1
5228billik   5228billik is offline
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crazy dobeck tfi question

2008 1600 blue and silver nomad. vance and hine duels,left side stock air filter,right side k&n filter.Installed a dobeck tfi.Would someone care to comment on a starting point for pot settings.Any help would be greatly appreciated.



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Old 10-20-2012, 01:33 PM   #2
IntheWind   IntheWind is offline
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Originally Posted by 5228billik View Post
2008 1600 blue and silver nomad. vance and hine duels,left side stock air filter,right side k&n filter.Installed a dobeck tfi.Would someone care to comment on a starting point for pot settings.Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have the TFI, vance and hines duals, stock air (for now). I'm set at 2:30, 2:45, 1:00 (off), 9:00. It runs good and is giving me mid 40s for mpg. I have the Baron's BAK but decided to wait 'til Spring to put on it.
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Old 10-20-2012, 11:50 PM   #3
rickyboy   rickyboy is offline
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#1 pot between 1:00 ...& 1:30 , #2 pot 4:00, #3 pot off, #4 pot 9:00
there should be directions though. If you have their phone number they/the techies are good about helping you.
I'm on an '06 Nomad, with duel cadmann, with 360* K&N filters marbleized, and I've debaffled the stock pipes.
I might be running a little rich but with the Nomad "loaded" and with a batwing fairing , hard lowers, and tour pak I get about 35 mpg's
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Old 10-21-2012, 12:16 PM   #4
jlreeves   jlreeves is offline
 
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I second the call to them. You will get a tech from the floor who will ask a few questions and recommend your best settings. Go get an unrestricted air intake from somewhere, you wont regret it. I recommend chucksters dual plate. You have the option of leaving the bike looking stock if you so desire but get the benefit of more and cooler air down the throat. Thats when you really get the benefit from a TFI.
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Old 10-21-2012, 06:50 PM   #5
macmac   macmac is offline
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The way I do these is install the unit, start the engine and run it to full warmed up, maybe ride it to get there with all pots OFF.

Once the engine is at full warm depending on the day and the temp I might run a box fan at at the rad/engine to keep it cool enough.

Then set pot 4 to 9:00 which is the RPM counter.

Then turn pot 1 slowly clock wise listening to RPM, unless you have a tach, in which case watch that looking for the highest RPM, and pass it for a lesser RPM for sure.

Then rev the throttle a little bit to clear the engine of idle excess fuel and slowly turn pot 1 back towards counter clockwise again seeking the highest RPM.

Pass that to leaner and again refine pot 1 moving the dial clockwise seeking best RPM.

(If the best RPM is getting too high and sort of above any reasonable idle speed RPM turn the stock black know on the right side counter clockwise slowly! By pulling back sharply on the knob and turning it. These tend to turn hard and you need to pull on them to engage the 2 lugs.)

IF you needed to do that above do it and again refine pot 1 for best RPM.

Once you find best RPM (fastest) with in reason if the black knob was involved or not, then set the pot screw slot ahead by 2 dots between numbers (richer). That won't change RPM in any way you can see on a tach or hear.


Then go for a nice ride and see how just the setting of pot 1 has changed the way the engine runs.

'IF' idle comes up and or if in downshifting the bike feels like it won't engine brake, turn down the black knob more and refine pot 1 again.

When pot 1 is all happy, and you can use a track, air port runway or a out in the boonies road where you won't get a ticket from the cops you can mess about with pot 2 best.

The only time pot 2 works is when you are twisting the wick hard. This pot will want you just buggin' out and goin' like a demon... So all that happens here is guessing unless you have access to a Dyno.

You will be in only 2nd or 3rd gear and trying to decide if you have more or less power between whole numbers. i would set it to either 3 right off and work to 6 or start at 6 and work down seeking best power and speed.

This is that place in life where everything other people, usually yer parents said something about all yer brains being in yer butt that makes them perfectly correct, because by the seat of your pants you must be able to tell what feels like the best power.

The stock ECU does what pot 3 does well and you should leave it off.

If pot 4 doesn't blink you haven't hooked up the TFI correctly when it is set to 9 and it should blink down to around 4. For the TFI to work Pot 4 must be blinking red and must be at 4 to 9
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:00 PM   #6
RiseLikeRa   RiseLikeRa is offline
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I put the Dobeck in my 2002 1500FI. with Vance and Hines Baggers and K&N filter. My problem was pinging and the feeling that I was dragging a piano behind my Nad. After reading EVERY post on the settings I cam to the sweet spot for my bike. The next day I rode it again and something was not right. No changes had been made from the previous day. The Dobeck is great. What I had to learn was when to properly shift this beast. My other bike is a 1500 Goldwing with a Heli Sport Cam installed. I can cruise around in 5th gear at 40 mph. With the Nad. I dont shift up intil I exhause all the present gear has to offer. It feels wierd and sonds like I should be shifting way sooner but the bike works great now and I am getting 45-50 mpg in mixed driving conditions. In conclusion the problem was me as much as it was the bike gasping for motion lotion.
 
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:28 PM   #7
5228billik   5228billik is offline
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macmac I done like you said. It seemed to run better but I never did see the red light light you mentioned.All I see is a green light above no 1 pot.I've been running 93 octane and if I hear right it seemed to be pinging a little so Iput 87 octane in and it helped.Maybe like the last post said,I've been changing geers to quick.I have been running in 5th at about 55 to 60 miles mph.Maybe I've been lugging it and that is the reason it doesn't seem to have any power. I appreciate everybody's help that commented on my post.I bought the plug and play tfi and unpluged one at a time and hooked it up. I don't see how I could have hooked it up wrong.

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Old 10-24-2012, 10:21 AM   #8
macmac   macmac is offline
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Originally Posted by 5228billik View Post
macmac I done like you said. It seemed to run better but I never did see the red light light you mentioned.All I see is a green light above no 1 pot.I've been running 93 octane and if I hear right it seemed to be pinging a little so Iput 87 octane in and it helped.Maybe like the last post said,I've been changing geers to quick.I have been running in 5th at about 55 to 60 miles mph.Maybe I've been lugging it and that is the reason it doesn't seem to have any power. I appreciate everybody's help that commented on my post.I bought the plug and play tfi and unpluged one at a time and hooked it up. I don't see how I could have hooked it up wrong.
The TFI has a led light above each pot..... Pot 3 should be OFF so don't expect to see any light there. To see pot 2 you have to roll on the throttle fairly quick to catch the led flicker.

I would like it if you check on pot 4 again, but it must be working or you won't see any other pot light.

4th and 5th are both over drives. Yes there IS 2 over drives...

The bike will run out about 112 MPH in 4th on a dead level road with the wind behind you. At that point if you select 5th gear the bike will start to slow down.

3rd on the other hand will get you to about 105 MPH , so even if you are passing on the interstate 3rd is where to be if you are serious about the pass.

.................................................. .................................................. ....

So tell me about what happened with just pot 4 set to (9) and working up pot 1? What kind of RPM response did you get?
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Old 10-24-2012, 05:03 PM   #9
5228billik   5228billik is offline
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I found at 3:00 to be the fastest idle point.Anything above or below that slowed it down. I didn't have to fool with the idle knob,it wasen't idling to fast at that spot.It seems like the rpms are awful high running it at speeds under what you said it would do,just by the way it sounds, not having a tach.But my last bike was an ultra and I guess I will have to get used to this one.

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Old 10-24-2012, 05:54 PM   #10
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I'd have to double check but I'm fairly sure pot 4 does not have an LED light above it.
If it's set to 9 (4500 rpm) you should see the red light above pot 3 glow at that rpm.


Here's their instructions.


Green LED pot(1st):
Air fuel mixture screw adjustment. With TFI installed and the bike fully warmed up,
screwdriver in hand, locate the green LED and the pot right below it.
Using the throttle raise the RPM to a high idle or about 2000-RPM.
Once there, slowly turn the green pot clockwise from the 1:00 position (off)
until you achieve the highest RPM and smoothest running sound
(like a mixture screw on a carburetor).
You should find the best setting between 2:30 and 4:00 o’clock.





Yellow LED pot(2nd):
Acceleration fuel adjustment (bottom to mid range fuel).
Anytime the yellow LED is on,this pot is adding fuel.
In neutral raise the RPM slowly up through the mid range and see no yellow LED.
However, opening the throttle quickly from idle you “should” see the yellow LED come on.
Fine tuning: Start with the suggested setting and then add ½ clock position at a time
until the bike says too much (hesitation) then back off 1 clock position,
if worse go opposite direction.
If no yellow LED there is not enough load to turn it on.
At that point the street or dyno will be able to show the difference.
The yellow pot adds its fuel below 70% of maximum RPM.





Red LED pot(3rd):
Main jet fuel adjustment (top end fuel). It adds about 2.5 points of main jet fuel with
every clock position. For example, one clock position is the same as 150 to 152.5 main jets.
Fine tuning: Start with the suggested setting and then add ½ clock position at a time until the bike says too much
(hesitation) then back off 1 clock position, if worse go opposite direction.
The red pot adds its fuel above 70% of maximum RPM.



RPM pot(4th):
All V-twins. Sets the RPM that the red pot fuel (main jet fuel) turns on.
One clock position is roughly 1000 RPM. This pot should be set to about 70% of redline.
(For example: Suzuki M109R redlines at 5800 RPM and 4000 is roughly 70% of redline which would be 4:00 o’clock).
On “some” dual plug systems (Kawasaki, Suzuki) you will need to double the RPM clock position to have the same results.
Verify setting by raising the RPM in neutral, look for green and yellow LED to shut off and
the red LED to turn on at the chosen RPM or refer to suggested settings if you have no tachometer.
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Old 10-25-2012, 12:06 PM   #11
macmac   macmac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5228billik View Post
I found at 3:00 to be the fastest idle point.Anything above or below that slowed it down. I didn't have to fool with the idle knob,it wasen't idling to fast at that spot.It seems like the rpms are awful high running it at speeds under what you said it would do,just by the way it sounds, not having a tach.But my last bike was an ultra and I guess I will have to get used to this one.
I don't know what you mean and I think maybe i should.... Are you saying you lost engine braking ability? That when you want to slow down and down shift the bike feels like it doesn't really agree?

That feeling did in fact happen to be on my own bikes twice, once per bike.

I had a 01 1500 which was stolen and i replaced with a 06 1600. Both were set up the same way with a right side only Cadman (spector) intake, V&H Baggers, and solder on TFI's.

If you lost engine braking you will need to drop the idle RPM with the black air knob. Then you will need to refine Pot 1 again.

This isn't any thing wrong it should happen and it is expected to happen. At least i expect it to happen.

For the first time ever the engine is getting the correct fuel mix, so long as this is the first time the TFI was ever installed.
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Old 10-25-2012, 12:13 PM   #12
macmac   macmac is offline
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Bud Man I have the first type of TFI which is solder on and it has 4 led light, one over each pot.



I have never installed the Plug n Play units which could be different. I got the pic off google and the red arrow DOES NOT POINT to the led light~! The led light is the white square above.
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:36 PM   #13
5228billik   5228billik is offline
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You can probably tell that I'm not a whiz on a computer.Let me try to explain it better.At 3:00 is the fastest idle spot. Anything above 3:00 or below 3:00 slows the idle pot down.I Guess you could call that the sweet spot.So the first pot is set on three o'clock.Pot no. 2 is set on 4 o'clock, pot 3 is off and pot 4 is set at 9 o'clock.N ow to explain the rest of it.while out driving or cruising around I tend to drive in 5th anywhere above 55 mph,and I try to pass without downshifting.You said that I could run alot faster in lower gears.Am I to take it that maybe I have been lugging it is the reason it doesn't seem to have a lot of power.I just thought I would hurt the engine running higher rpms. so it won't hurt it to cruise around in 4th running say 55 to 70 mph for an extended period of time.
 
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:54 PM   #14
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Mac, the plug-n-play version doesn't have a light above pot 4.
I just didn't want him getting worried because he didn't see it.

And 5228billik, I don't think 55 is to slow for 5 th gear.
But if you want to get around somebody
you better knock it down a gear and romp on it.
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Old 10-25-2012, 10:57 PM   #15
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I cruise at 55 to 60 in 4th all the time, and I get 42 mpg plus. I only shift into 5th when I am going 70+. Some think it seems to be over revving. But like Mac said these bike will run 100+ in 4th. My tfi is set about where yours is. Even at 55 If I want to pass someone quickly I'll down shift into 3rd and then back to 4th around 70 - 75. Once you get use to the sound of your bike you can tell when to up and down shift to make sound and feel smooth as silk.
 
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