Threaded thread, drain plug oil

[sg67]

Hello

A very bad adventure this afternoon: I did the emptying of my bike but almost all the tapping came with the cap :(( . It was very difficult to turn it, not at all normal. The previous owner had much too tight.
I do not see myself dismantling the engine entirely either. I thought of drilling delicately and tapped with grease, plus then reverse the oil in to be sure that there is no more chip inside.
What do you think ? Already meet this problem ?
Thank you
Nice evening
Serge

[DragonLady58]

They have stripped them out before. Its not anything to worry about, so a search, you'll find the thread. If you decide to tap your drain hole out, use a new, very sharp tap, holding it exactly 90 degrees to lowers case surface, dip the end of tap in wheel bearing grease, and tap out your hole, breaking your thread every 3/4 to 1 full turn of the tap, you should be fine. I like to hand tap the threads out by hand and not use the self tapping drainplug to actually cut the threads.
You only want to go to the next size up from the drainhole size the stripped out.
(I always use the side hole that has the screen in it, I seldom use the one on bottom of crankcase unless I have her up on the bike lift.)
Afterwards, clean tap good, dip in grease again, and screw it in by hand, that should pick up any leftovers in threads and top of hole.
Lastly, use a Q-Tip, bend the shaft into a 90 degree angle, and check top of hole inside the gearcase of any grease/chips....this is just a precaution, it should be fine....
Always just put a single drop of antiseize on your drainplug before screwing in to coat the threads when it screws in....Steel and aluminum don't like each other when they are fit tightly together for a long time....

[sg67]

Hello

Thank you for your answer
I understand all things. Il'll see about that the next week.
It's a good idea about grease
You tilt your bike on the other side to drain the oil by screen oil level ? ....maybe the last owner did the same.

Nice weekend
Serge

[DragonLady58]

Well, its the oil intake screen. Is right behind your kickstand mounting tab on the left hand side of crankcase at the bottom, right to the inside of your frame.
Alot of folks use that plug because you can drain all the oil out of your crankcase with the bike still on its side stand, instead of doing it on the lift. Just be sure to keep a eye on the sealing O-Ring thats on it....

[Tortuga]

So you don't have to drain from the center plug? The side will get ALL the oil out? I don't have a lift. I strap the bike vertical using the garage door tracks and tie downs to each side. If I can drain using side plug only and get it all out, that would be great.

[MAS Tequila]

That is actually the preferred drain spot.

You don't have to completely remove it either.

I would definitely recommend removing the screen and cleaning it, especially if you've never done it.

All kinds of crap has been found there, from assembly sealers to metal shavings to bearing balls.

I usually just turn it enough to drain and only remove it completely every 2nd or 3rd oil change.

But down here in the heat of south FL I change my oil every 2000 miles or so.

MT

[Tortuga]

Thanks. I have always cleaned the screen since I bought the bike used last March. First time there were a few tiny shavings and really nothing since then. I do it every oil change since it's so simple. i just didn't know it was the best bet to drain from there only. Love this forum.

[DragonLady58]

MAS makes a geat point, you don't have to fully unscrew that plug, just enough to drain, then let it drip dry for awhile....get all the oil oil out of it.
I pull the plug once a year to check it, then clean and reinstall.
After changing the oil/filter, I flip the kill switch. Engine won't start, but it'll turn over. I crank it several times, then I turn the kill switch on.
This allows the pump to get primed before you fire the engine, so you won't have a dry start and put wear on your lower end bearings and piston skirts....

[Tortuga]

Hmmmm. Your switch is different than mine on my '06 Nomad. With key on and switch off my bike doesn't turn over. Did you somehow rewire yours?

[DragonLady58]

I can't remember if I did it, or it was like like that when I bought it. I believe I did it, for priming the oil pump exclusively. I might've done it for doing compression checks, also. I know I've rewired several of MaKawas stuff on my bike. I have over-rides in several key areas so I can troubleshoot stuff....
----yes, so it breaks the power to the ECU----
Like the ECU errors where the FI light flashes? I have mine setup with a jumper on a toggleswitch, mounted by fuse box. I need to see a error code, I don't need to pull the ECU to install the jumper wire, I have it installed where I can check it fast, with the flick of a switch.
I also have some starter disable switches, should someone try to help themselves to my bike. I have 3 double throws, and will only start in a certain order. Poor mans security system.

[MAS Tequila]

I had to disable the kickstand switch when the spring broke 200 miles from home, never did put it back.

I get some strange looks when I pull off with the kickstand down.

There is a hidden master power kill switch on my Nomad and soon will be on the Meanie.

I have had one on all of my vehicles for over 30 years.

The first one I had was on an old Firebird that had a bad parasitic drain.

It would kill a battery in 3-4 hours, so a marine master switch went in until I had time to track down the problem.

Sometimes you just need that added sense of security.

So I kept installing some type of master power on off switch, using it when I feel like it.

MT

[DragonLady58]

One thing that I did do was get the oil pressure cutoff sender for a 1975 chevy vega (looks exactly like the oil press sending unit, but has 2 wires), and installed it into the batch O units (oil press. sender/oil light) by my air compressor.
Ran my ignition wire thru it (from fuse block), my oil pressure falls below 5 psi, engine shuts down....Just in case I'm not looking at the gauge when the drain plug falls out, filter explodes, oil pump fails, someone beams my oil up....

[Jllm02199]

Originally Posted by MAS Tequila

That is actually the preferred drain spot.

You don't have to completely remove it either.

I would definitely recommend removing the screen and cleaning it, especially if you've never done it.

All kinds of crap has been found there, from assembly sealers to metal shavings to bearing balls.

I usually just turn it enough to drain and only remove it completely every 2nd or 3rd oil change.

But down here in the heat of south FL I change my oil every 2000 miles or so.

MT

I agree with Mas. I stopped using the center drain 14 years ago.
I felt the center drain was easy to strip out.
The side drain works well.

[sg67]

hello,

news
I had not had time to repair. Today I look. I just understood, ..... a misunderstanding . I had not looked too much before, and I thought you were talking about the oil level screen for the drain, but it's actually the plug on the left, which has a filter.
Otherwise, I repaired the drain plug tapping by tapping at 12 and tapping with 1/4 gas (13.15mm). I put a 1/4 gas plug glued to the loctite. I had what I need at home (tap and plug) for repair.
thanks
have a nice week-end
Serge

[Navigator]

That's also the one I use when doing an oil change. A fellow Nomad rider showed me that when he visited to give me some tips on service right after I bought my 07. I'm not really sure why it is there but it does work the best.