My Observations on Swing Arm Service

[hammer]

I read both Gadgets and Mac instructions. The brake line hoops on my 2006 did not have splits in them. I protected the brake line and cut all three hoops. I used a plastic hammer to tap them back into place later. I did this so I could pull the swing arm back from the driveshaft, not both together as in Mac's write-up and I pulled the swingarm right off.

I did not need to take anymore than just the mufflers off of the V&H baggers. There was no need to take the headers off at all. I did take off the bag supports.

The pin stayed in the spline when I pulled the driveshaft off. Not trusting that pesky little pin I kept my thumb on it, pulled the driveshaft off and layed it on the floor. Then, thanks Mac, I took that small patch of duct tape Mac shows and pressed it to the head of the pin and pulled it out right into my hand. Then I dutifully stuck it back on that piece of duct tape and put in on the bench.

The driveshaft was totally devoid of grease on the splines at either end. I took care of that. When I put the pin back in to the hole between the splines I held the pin down with a small flat blade screwdriver and then slid it in until the pin popped into the hole in the driveshaft.

The swing arm was in great shape at 17,500 miles. Lots of good clean grease but I cleaned all and re-greased with moly lube. The seals looked in fine shape, I did not replace them. There was not a lot of slop at all so no shims required. I did put anti-seize on the swing arm bolt threads. I did mark the that bolt at the 12 o'clock position with a black marker. Sure enough at 94 ft. lbs. it was right back at 12 again. If you don't have a larger torque wrench that will probably work fine.

I serviced the shocks as Mac suggested. Thanks for that Mac, I may have missed those top mount needle bearings.

Tomorrow the tire gets mounted and shoved back on and we are good to go for another 10,000 miles, maybe.

[macmac]

I just don't cut the loops at all. Mine have no splits either. My loops are not cut.

Some people report the pin jumps clear of the hole and one poor SOB had the pin fall into the bevel gear case!

I suspect whether the pin flies in part depends on how fast the drive shaft gets yanked off the spline.

I think the stock rear head pipes prevents the swing arm bolt from being pulled out. The header pipe is in the way.

Many will find the mufflers will refuse to come off the pipes, unless they smeared anti seize in the joint. I know mine are carbon adheard tight.

Droppping the total exhaust allows a chance for header stud maint too.

Due to in part dissimilar metals I like to service the studs. That white oxide is alloy on steel.

Another thing is the cheap junk chrome cooks off the acorns and I replaced them with SS acorns.


With what ever acorn you will use wind it on the stud, and mark it, then take the nut off. masking tape that much thread.

Hand wire brush with a ss tooth brush, then in hi temp flat black mist into the ratle cans top, and use a acid or small paint brush to paint the studd. 3 or 4 coats. Then anti seize the threads where the nuts will go....

I take off stuff I don't need to take off, so I can do what is needed with less fuss and not worry about dent and scratch. These are bikes not cars.

I look for cracks, signs of heat where there should not be any, like rear wheel hub splines!!!!!!!! The vulcan rear wheel isn't a simple rim either. it is made up of a lot of parts.

There are big rubber dampers inside that wheel. They get hot as does the spline plate and more so with no grease.

[hammer]

More good stuff Mac. I have added it to my collection of good Mac advise.

Thanks.

[poppy]

Originally Posted by hammer

More good stuff Mac. I have added it to my collection of good Mac advise.

Thanks.

+1000!