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Old 04-24-2011, 07:31 AM   #1
dakota7557   dakota7557 is offline
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New Mods: Now fan runs more often.

Hi, I have a 2000FI Nomad with 9500 miles. I put on the chuckster dual plate air mod and used his coasters when I took the reed valves off and added a Cobra F2000 for more fuel (set at 3-3-0). I have the V & H baggers. I burn 87 octane. Here's my concern, the bike seems to run hotter with these mods. Everywhere I've read, people claim that their bikes run cooler with these mods but whenever I come to a stop, the fan turns on (even in 50 degree weather. It rarely did that before, especially when it's this cool. I have bled the cooling system but it still appears to run hot (although the Temp Light Doesn't Come on). I was hoping someone could point me in a direction to try something else to get the fan to NOT come on so frequent. I'm concerned when the temperature outside gets warmer, the fan will come on even more. I've had the airtight chaps on before the mods so I know it's not that. Any advice would be greatly appreciated...Jody



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Old 04-24-2011, 08:05 AM   #2
MAS Tequila   MAS Tequila is offline
 
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New Mods: Now fan runs more often.

Ride it for a little while and I'll bet you find that it is fine.

Most of us pay more attention after we change something than before. I get a little paranoid after making changes and hear things which are normal, and imagine problems.

Relax a little and ride.

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Old 04-24-2011, 08:28 AM   #3
dakota7557   dakota7557 is offline
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New Mods: Now fan runs more often.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MAS Tequila
Ride it for a little while and I'll bet you find that it is fine.

Most of us pay more attention after we change something than before. I get a little paranoid after making changes and hear things which are normal, and imagine problems.

Relax a little and ride.

MT
I hear you...I bought the bike with 195 miles last year and I've put on about 750 miles (since the mods) in weather between 40 and 50 degrees, so I have a good feeling for the bike...Just wondering if I'm missing something. Almost every thread I've read talked about the bike running cooler after these mods although I know every bike is different and has their own idiosyncracies...Thanks for the post.
 
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:33 AM   #4
AlabamaNomadRider   AlabamaNomadRider is offline
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New Mods: Now fan runs more often.

When I added the FI2000R I noticed my bike seems to run cooler. The fan hardly ever comes on. Can't imagine with the mods you have why it would run hotter.
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Old 04-24-2011, 10:37 AM   #5
macmac   macmac is offline
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New Mods: Now fan runs more often.

HUH? Last year you bought a 2000 model year bike with 195 mies on it? That some kind of typo?

Then there is no way the bike is hotter due to the mods, unless the cobra unit isn't working.
Now if it isn't working you would know it right? Because if it isn't you will have PING.

I think there may be a problem, but it showed up at the same time by chance.

Just due to age I would suspect a faulty T stat, and or perhaps some clogged up raditor tubings.

I would check the rad first since it's cleaner and all dry.(remove the grill screen) Fire up the bike and stay around feeling the rad at the top first, waiting for the T stat to open. Once the top of the rad gets hot watch out you don't get burned. I use the back of my hands for this so if I do get burned i can still work.

As the engine heats up the coolant feel lower and lower on the rad and 'discover' if the entire rad gets uniformly hot, or is there colder places.

If low on the rad fins you find cold spots that rad needs a flush bad.. It may or not fix the rad, but it's worth a try. In the old days we 'Rodded Out ' rads with a wellding rod, and reamed each and every coolant tube out to be clean by hand with a rod.

No one I know of but me still does that work, and it's hard work. You are sure to get a blister on yer little finger and another on yer thumb Plus one must be expert at soldering the end tank removed in order to rod the tubes. The end caps have a nasty habit of curling up when they get removed as well.

With good luck the rad will be evenly heated and show sign that the tubes are not clogged up bad.

If not try a chemical flush possible from Siloo brand flush if you can find it. That is draining all the coolant, a pre water flush to rid all the coolant, then adding the chems and water and riding that way over several days. (Don't do this in freezing temps)

If then the fan comes on too much and I think it is, since in NH mine won't come on untill the engine idles up a while, the T stat (thermostat) may be sticking due to age.

It might stick closed riding some and open rapidly at stops, dumping hot coolant into the rad overly fast. T stats an do some weird stuff. These are ez to change out and if yours is the same age as the bike you might just do it for grins.

Another idea and I am not sure about this one, is to get a infra red tester light pointed at the rad before and after the fan cycles. I don't have that tool, never did and so am not sure what it might tell.

And last the switch might be fubarred.. It is a bi-metalic switch, and these can go bad from time to time.

In NH my fan almost never comes on, but then I live rural and have to go hunt down things like red lights and stop for them.
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Old 04-24-2011, 01:41 PM   #6
MAS Tequila   MAS Tequila is offline
 
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New Mods: Now fan runs more often.

Did you burp the system when you changed the coolant?

You may have an air bubble and not be circulating correctly.

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Old 04-24-2011, 03:39 PM   #7
dakota7557   dakota7557 is offline
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New Mods: Now fan runs more often.

Mac, that wasn't a typo. I purchased the 2000FI nomad last year with 195 miles on it from Ft. Collins Co. The older gentleman I bought it from had a construction accident and he wasn't able to ride it, so it sat in his garage for 10 years, with 195 miles on it (I know I paid to much for it, but it was worth it to me). I changed ALL the fluids when I got it home...I even flushed the radiator, took out the T-Stat at that time and put it in some hot water to make sure that it was opening properly, which it was...The Cobra F2000 appears to be working properly because it sure has a lot more get up and go, and the green light is on which (according to Cobra) means it's working the way it should. I will try the radiator feel test to see if it's warming up at the top first and go from since I haven't done that.
MAS Tequila: Yes I did burp the system a couple of times. Once using the small nut with a hose by the T-Stat and another time using the massage method...I appreciate the input, Jody
 
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Old 04-24-2011, 03:53 PM   #8
MAS Tequila   MAS Tequila is offline
 
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New Mods: Now fan runs more often.

Check the shop manual in the garage section. But I loosen the bottom left bolt on the water pump cover until liquid comes out. Apparently that is where the bubble will settle.

I am being srious.

http://www.kawanow.org/pdf/VN1600Man...aintenance.pdf

2-45

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Old 04-24-2011, 05:48 PM   #9
ringadingh   ringadingh is offline
 
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New Mods: Now fan runs more often.

Try turing the pots all to zero on the fuel module and see if that stops the fan from Coming on.
Perhaps you have it too lean. If not perhaps the fan switch is malfunctioning. If it never came on before you added the mods it has to be something youve done.
My fan rarely ever comes on, unless its about 90 or higher outside and Im stuck in a heavy traffic jam.
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Old 04-24-2011, 10:14 PM   #10
dakota7557   dakota7557 is offline
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New Mods: Now fan runs more often.

I felt the rad and it's circulating fine, I loosened the bottom left side bolt of the water pump until some antifreeze came out...The only thing I haven't done is turn my pods on the FICobra to all zeros...I will try that next and take it for a spin and see if there are any changes...If that doesn't work I will simply ride ride it and see what happens...Thanks again for the responses, Jody
 
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Old 04-25-2011, 08:25 AM   #11
VulcanE   VulcanE is offline
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New Mods: Now fan runs more often.

It could be that everything is fine except the radiator fan switch. It could be faulty, and telling the fan to kick on and off at too low of a temperature? There is a check for the switch, click on the link below and go to page 94, there is an explanation on how to check it.

http://www.kawanow.org/pdf/VN1600Man...icalSystem.pdf
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Old 04-25-2011, 09:49 AM   #12
macmac   macmac is offline
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New Mods: Now fan runs more often.

Maybe another thing to check is the rez level both stone cold and hot. Cold should be lower than hot.

There is a error in the info given the bleeder bolt on the water pump is top left.

I am looking in thepaper book to find the page for testing the fan switch. Vulcan can you say?

I sort of suspect the book might sat to yank the switch and with a OHM meter hang the switch in a pot and make water boil with a thermometer in the pot.

The switch should come on around boiling 212 degrees, and the ohm meter will read 0 resistance, but I can't find the bloomin test ......
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Old 04-25-2011, 11:50 AM   #13
VulcanE   VulcanE is offline
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New Mods: Now fan runs more often.

Mac, in my book it is in section 16 (Electrical System) and on page 94 (16-94)
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Old 04-25-2011, 12:13 PM   #14
macmac   macmac is offline
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New Mods: Now fan runs more often.

Thanks, I always loved boiling things in oil. man what a crock of crap that is. My way with water is the same thing. In this case i would prefer a annalog ohm meter, but digital will do.

You can use any thermometer that has a reading for 212 F' Degrees, but in my case I would use a RTD since I have 2. ::)

Sometimes that book and me just do not get along. I am always flipping back and forth untill I flip it off.
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Old 04-26-2011, 07:59 AM   #15
VulcanE   VulcanE is offline
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New Mods: Now fan runs more often.

Yeah Mac, That's one thing I hate about any manual, your reading up on how to do something, and it'll say do this, see section so and so, do that, see another section, and so on, just to do one thing.
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