1500Fi oil light stays on

[id-man]

My oil light popped on while riding the other day, after bike had sat for almost 3 weeks. I knew it was low on oil and was headed to buy a quart when the light appeared. Bike never made any weird noises or smells, or lost power, or anything abnormal but when I added the new oil the oil light just stayed on, and still hasn't gone out. I have been riding it and watching carefully for the slightest noise or anything but she's running beautifully at all speeds. How unusual is it for that light to be lit when all other systems seem to be operating perfectly?

[Sin City Stan]

Check the wire connector at the sensor.

[MAS Tequila]

Like Stan said, check the wire AND the sensor.

It is rare for that light to be on without a severe problem.

MT

[id-man]

The sensor wire is tight, I took the rubber boot off it and fully removed the connector and reattached it snug. I did not unscrew the sensor, not sure how I would go about checking it. I am going to do a full oil and filter change tomorrow and will check the screen while I'm at it. If I pull the sensor out at that time what am I looking for? Is there a way to check it with a multimeter? Going beyond the sensor, is there an easy test I can do to tell if I'm pumping oil properly. I don't have any fancy gauges to do a real oil pressure test but if there was a backyard shortcut it might put my mind at ease.
Thanks.

[ringadingh]

I don't have a shop manual handy but that would be a good place to check, most likely there is a way to test the sensor. I'd also connect an oil pressure gauge to make sure that you do have some oil pressure.

[Yellow Jacket]

The sensor is just a switch providing a path to ground.

Take the wire off and check for continuity from the lug to ground with the engine off. Make a note of the reading. Start the engine and check again. It should be different.

Either open or closed with engine off and the opposite with the engine running. (If there is actually oil pressure when the engine is running.)

[id-man]

Originally Posted by Yellow Jacket

The sensor is just a switch providing a path to ground.

Take the wire off and check for continuity from the lug to ground with the engine off. Make a note of the reading. Start the engine and check again. It should be different.

Either open or closed with engine off and the opposite with the engine running. (If there is actually oil pressure when the engine is running.)

Nice easy check - I can do that! Thanks! It's late here now, I'll do it tomorrow when I changing the oil and report back. I'm hoping for a bad sensor meaning the oil pressure is fine just not registering.

[Silent Sam]

If you can "rig up" an adapter that will screw in to the sensor location...with a hose to a mechanical-oil pressure gauge...the gauge should read over 60 psi on cold start..and at aprox 2000 rpm when warmed up ... (from my memory..others may have more accurate info) ..Good Luck

[id-man]

Update - oil change is done and I have lots of oil pressure which I proved by starting it up without the oil cap on - doofus. After mopping up and digging further the sensor was definitely bad, reading the same with engine running or not. Reads shorted between body and lead. I took it all the way out and tried a good cleaning with carb cleaner and poking the pinhole with a needle hoping maybe it was just stuck. Nope - light still lit constantly and now the sensor is leaking too - right out the frikkin end where the wire attaches! GRRR! So now not only do I get to buy a part I get to NOT ride while I wait around for it to be shipped.

That sensor is such a simple thing, I did some snooping online to see if there might be an automotive equivalent that would be on the shelf at my local NAPA. It looks like there might be but it's very hard to tell online what the ratings are, the cutoff pressures...one known match is to the Kawi motors in Cub Cadet commercial mowers which apparently use the same part number for their sensor but that knowledge didn't help me locate a replacement quickly (the only Cub dealer on Cape Cod doesn't stock chit for parts). Pressing on I took my part with me today for a visual matchup at some stores. The thread is certainly universal enough, a simple 1/8" NPT pipe thread like for copper tubing. Which got me to thinking a mechanical oil pressure gauge could be connected to that fitting very simply. Then I wouldn't need that idiot light I'd know exactly where my pressure was at all times. So that's what I am contemplating at the moment unless somebody talks me out of it...run a copper tube to somewhere visible and buy a 0-100 psi gauge instead of the idiot light. Make sense?

Regardless of my next move I AM riding again! I just picked up a 1/8" NPT plug and stopped my leak. I know it's risky you just don't know how bad I needed a ride. We're running out of good weather quick in New England. :)

[Silent Sam]

I was par-uusing the web while considering mounting a oil Electric Pressure Gauge..and found a sender ..that matches the threads on the 02 Nomad
.However that sending unit has electric gauge connection, AND idiot light connections...so you could hook up both !

Sorry I dont have the info anymore, but it should be --"findable" on the web.. Good Luck

[cnc]

You can also put a T in so you could run both the idiot light sensor and the gauge sensor.
I would however before riding put some mechanical gauge on at least to confirm there is good oil pressure. Starting the bike without the filler cap does not confirm oil pressure, only that the crank and a few other components like the countershaft are rotating splashing oil everywhere in the sump.

[Silent Sam]

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[ringadingh]

Thats what I did when I installed some gauges.

[id-man]

Originally Posted by cnc

starting the bike without the filler cap does not confirm oil pressure, only that the crank and a few other components like the countershaft are rotating splashing oil everywhere in the sump.

Except that the splashing was also accompanied by great puffs of air that blew my hair back from 3 feet above. I'm definitely shopping for a gauge then, and the tee idea so I could run both is also brilliant. Thanks.

[cnc]

The puffs of air are from the down stroke of each piston. Normally with the cap in place the crank case breather takes care of this displacement of air, but off well it's gonna take the path of least resistance. Did you get a face full of oil splatter?