Steering Stem Head Nut ?

[recumbentbob]

I am going to check the torque on my Steering Stem Head Nut.

Is it OK to torque it while the bike is on the side stand?
Or should I put it on my jack to take the weight off the front wheel?

The service manual says 65 ft. lbs for the stem head nut.

I'm not servicing the bearings just checking tightness because of a handling issue.

Thanks,
Bob

[thedude]

Sorry, don't know the answers to your questions, but I am interested in the answers as well. BTW, what is the "handling issue" you speak of?

[recumbentbob]

Originally Posted by TheDude

Sorry, don't know the answers to your questions, but I am interested in the answers as well. BTW, what is the "handling issue" you speak of?

I run a car tire on the rear. It was fine for 3000 miles now it feels like the rear is loose.

here is the thread on my problem. If the stem nut is tight then i have a defective tire, hoping to find it not tight.

http://www.vulcanbagger.com/phpBB3/v...ic.php?t=17604

I'll let you know.

[ringadingh]

You could have a tight stem nut but also have the bearings too loose or tight as well. If your going to check it, verify that the bearings are tightened properly and then tighten the stem nut.
Id do it with the bike upright while straddling it or on a jack with the wheel off the ground.

[recumbentbob]

I put it on the jack and checked them, first 40 ft lbs then 50 ft lbs then 60 then 65 ft lbs.

Couldn't really tell but thought it tightened a little at the 65 ft lb setting on the torque wrench.

Getting ready to go for a ride and see if it made a difference.

Bob

[macmac]

Are you sure you are reading the book right? There are 2 nuts involved and I think the book is wrong, and i think you are reading it wrong. With out looking at the book I think it says 65 inch pounds. Which is wrong. In any case the top nut is a lock nut and wants to be jambed tight to the real adjusting nut.

IMO what you do is take the weight but not lift the ft wheel, then adjust constantly turning the forks. With the adjustment right the forks will still fall over slow to the stop parking.

That won't be any 65 ft lbs. Now the lock nut might be that much, but less will do, maybe 45 ft lbs, and for insurance a bit of blue loctitie JUST on the lock nut.

I am dead beat tired and too hot and muggy to be flippin pages in a book. I know i should too but can't. You just dopuble chyeck the book as I might be wrong. But then I adusted a million ft wheel bearings on cars and have done this before on other bikes.

As I see it the adjuster is more to take up and pre load the bearings then back that off just slightest smidgen, Then lock any jam nuts.

[ringadingh]

Something doesn't sound quite right, I think mac has explained the procedure better.

[Netnorske]

I'm no mechanic, but....

I just got my bike back from a 30k service that included servicing the steering head bearings. When I got the bike back, it had a serious wobble when you let go of the handlebars at all speeds that it never had before. The tech of course had set the steering head nut to spec....which I think I read was 43 ft lbs.

Anyways....I took it back to them and he tightened it a bit more. The wobble was gone above 35 mph, but still very present at lower speeds...including starting from a dead stop. I also had a hard time riding a straight line with it in that condition and thought maybe I was losing some skills or something... :-/.

The shop tech once again tore into it this morning (2.0 hour job) and tightened it further, well above spec (but no idea how much so). Anyways...when he got done, I rode it most of the day and it is all good again....no wobble and runs laser straight.

I gotta hand it to my local shop. They spent 4 hours extra labor fixing this problem for me...on their dime....even though they were going by Kawasaki specs.... ! Good guys doing the right thing....you gotta love that, which is why I use them!

Cactusjack had a similar experience, where he tightened the steering head nut well beyond spec to eliminate a wobble he had as well. I know this is not very scientific....but it seems to work to get the bike to run true and balanced. This is one of those cases where the manual isn't always right.

Like I said at the beginning, I'm no mechanic, but I do know what worked to make my bike ride like it is supposed to....JMHO....

[Cajunrider]

I need to service mine and torque until the wobble is taken care of on mine also. It's been there from day 1 but hasn't ever gotten worse. Slight wobble on deceleration between 50 and 35 mph.

[recumbentbob]

You guys are right...

I only torqued the lock nut not the adjustment nut. The book does call for 43 in lbs on the adjustment nut.

Wonder how hard it's going to be to get to the adj. nut???

[ringadingh]

Its not that hard, just a few more parts to handle. Unless you have the special tool, or make one, you will have to tighten the collar with a punch. Go to Gadgets Fixit sight and he has a simple detailed article on how to do the job.

[Netnorske]

Originally Posted by recumbentbob

You guys are right...

I only torqued the lock nut not the adjustment nut. The book does call for 43 in lbs on the adjustment nut.

Wonder how hard it's going to be to get to the adj. nut???

2 hours start to finish for a trained tech....go from there.... ::)!

[macmac]

Yeah that's it that 43 inch pounds if fooey. There is no inch or foot pounds as it will varry bike to bike bearing set to bearing set. and it will certainly be more than 43 inch pounds. This is preload directly on the bearings.

I exolained above the correct way, this can varry too depending on just how loose or sluggist you want the forks to be with in reason. I prefer sluggish forks, but they still will flop over by themselves parking. Just a little slow.

Too loose they will fall over fast, bounce of the stops and fall again. Looser than that and you don't dare ride.

On top of the adjusting pre-load nut there is a lock jam nut, which had better never come loose by itself. If it does the pre load will be lost and the forks would get some nasty sloppy.

I don't know the cause for the wiggles and shakes some of these bikes get. It bugs me if the preload is what is taken up to get rid of the wobbles, unless the bearings were not seated correctly in the first place.

Then maybe I got it wrong and the top nut on top of the highest triple tree is the one we are all tawkin about except me ? That chrome one you see? That would want to be some snug to mista' I could see 65 ft lbs there.

I haven't been there, mostly because the bike handles fine, but that day is coming.

I see there is a 4 tab socket to adjust with, and assume most guys use a very dull and chamfers off cold chisel.

But then you can't tell tourque, So who bought the special tools?

[ringadingh]

I made a special tool but havn,t used it yet. Possibly tomorrow I'll get a chance to try it on another members bike. I hiope it fits the collar without too much finagling.

[jesse]

I think mac is right, I adjusted mine by feel, tighten nut to seat bearings, back off. Start adjustments from there, tighten nut, turn steering head, repeat until head moves with slight pressure but doesn't flop around. 43 in lbs is not much, seems it should be more, IMO.