Nomad Questions: Brakes and Tachometer

[MrMikey]

You 'spose the rear calipers might be sticking, not being allowed to retract enough?. If the fluid is old and full of moisture, the piston could be sticking slightly in the bore?Not like the old drum brakes where there's springs hauling the shoes back.
All that retracts the pads from contact with the rotor is the slight bit of movement from the rotor. If the pistons are tight with crap, just sayin'..........Mike

[B.C.]

Originally Posted by MrMikey

You 'spose the rear calipers might be sticking, not being allowed to retract enough?. If the fluid is old and full of moisture, the piston could be sticking slightly in the bore?Not like the old drum brakes where there's springs hauling the shoes back.
All that retracts the pads from contact with the rotor is the slight bit of movement from the rotor. If the pistons are tight with crap, just sayin'..........Mike

It is possible, I'll definitely be looking into this as well. Thinking about checking the pistons and calipers when I flush the brake system. Hopefully this weekend.
Thanks for the idea.

Any thoughts on the master cylinder being a potential culprit? I'm definitely not a brake master, more kinda learning as I go.


Current list:
Sticky calipers
Old / contaminated fluid
Wheel alignment (checked)
Wheel Rub (checked)
Brake pad type
Rotor Warped (checked)
Caliper "free float" (checked)

[MrMikey]

Any thoughts on the master cylinder being a potential culprit

Anything's possible. Even so far as to brake hoses collapsing internally and acting like one way check valves not allowing the fluid to return to the reservoir. Happened to the front brakes on a friend of mines Accord, twice within a year. Flex hose inner separated from the outer and it would allow the fluid to the caliper but wouldn't let it return.

[Sabre-t]

7800 miles is not much, but how old is the bike. If the fluid is old it doesn't matter if the bike has been ridden a lot. Brake fluid should be changed at least every two years, so, if it is older than that, the first thing to do is to change it, flushing the system with some new fluid in the process. I don't advocate the throwing of parts at a problem as a diagnosis tool, but in this situation, it is an appropriate first step.

Brake fluid naturally absorbs moisture, so ALWAYS use a fresh bottle when replacing or even topping off the master cylinder. If it has been open for more than a week, don't use it to refill the system.

After the fluid change, with the rear tire lifted off the ground, spin it and fully apply then release the rear brakes. Is there any undue drag by the pads when you spin the tire after that?

If the problem still exists, you haven't done anything that shouldn't have been done anyway.

It's possible that whoever changed the tire pushed the pistons in far enough that some dirt got into the cylinder and is causing the pistons to stick now. Cleaning the pistons really well may help, but you may have to rebuild the calipers with new seals and o-rings. It's not as hard as it sounds, but it does need to be done right.

I clean the pistons any time I have access to them to prevent damage to the seals. Some q-tips and 80% isopropyl alcohol work great for getting all around them. Make sure you use the brake control to push them out a bit to get to all of the surface that has been exposed.

[B.C.]

MrMikey: Never knew the hoses could do that. Looks like one more thing to investigate. Thank you

Sabre-t: Brake fluid is due. Not sure if it was changed when I bought it. Most likely not though.

Looks like brake fluid is added to the list, then maybe new brake lines if that doesn't work.


Current list:
Sticky calipers
Wheel alignment (checked)
Wheel Rub (checked)
Brake pad type
Rotor Warped (checked)
Caliper "free float" (checked)
Brake Fluid flush
Brake lines

[BobBear]

Your brake issue sounds similar to a couple problems I had. One with a 98 Nomad and one with my Chevy pickup. The Nomad rear brake issue was the caliper stuck open and the pads fell out at 50 mph. The Chevy was the opposite and the symptoms were the same as yours. I noticed a burning smell coming from the rear brakes after just a short trip downtown. Whenever I applied the brakes the caliper plunger was not receding back into the caliper so the brake would stay on until enough pad wore off to create an air gap with the rotor.

[B.C.]

Originally Posted by BobBear

Your brake issue sounds similar to a couple problems I had. One with a 98 Nomad and one with my Chevy pickup. The Nomad rear brake issue was the caliper stuck open and the pads fell out at 50 mph. The Chevy was the opposite and the symptoms were the same as yours. I noticed a burning smell coming from the rear brakes after just a short trip downtown. Whenever I applied the brakes the caliper plunger was not receding back into the caliper so the brake would stay on until enough pad wore off to create an air gap with the rotor.

That sounds like fun.
I assume you fixed the Chevy by rebuilding the caliper? Doing a flush and rebuild is what I'm leaning towards right now for the Nomad.


Current list:
Sticky calipers
Wheel alignment (checked)
Wheel Rub (checked)
Brake pad type
Rotor Warped (checked)
Caliper "free float" (checked)
Brake Fluid flush
Brake lines

[BobBear]

Originally Posted by B.C.

That sounds like fun.
I assume you fixed the Chevy by rebuilding the caliper? Doing a flush and rebuild is what I'm leaning towards right now for the Noma


Current list:
Sticky calipers
Wheel alignment (checked)
Wheel Rub (checked)
Brake pad type
Rotor Warped (checked)
Caliper "free float" (checked)
Brake Fluid flush
Brake lines

Rebuilt the Nomad caliper but for the Chevy I just went down to the auto parts store and bought re-manufactured ones. Not that expensive.

[warrbucks222]

I had this happen once on highway in 19 degree f weather. I think the rear pistons had deicer & crud & stuck. Mileage and performance dropped suddenly & noticeably, then smell. Parked, worked the brake & rarely had the problem again, but I'm careful not to use the rear brake below freezing. Seems to work. 31k 4 years, all seemed fine changing pads last year. BTW, you need to reinstall the small clip pin in the retainer. Pads cannot come off if done right.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[smokier]

BC, did you swap the rear pads back to the OEM? Did that address the smell issue?
OEM Pads and plugs, great products...

[B.C.]

Originally Posted by warrbucks222

I had this happen once on highway in 19 degree f weather. I think the rear pistons had deicer & crud & stuck. Mileage and performance dropped suddenly & noticeably, then smell. Parked, worked the brake & rarely had the problem again, but I'm careful not to use the rear brake below freezing. Seems to work. 31k 4 years, all seemed fine changing pads last year. BTW, you need to reinstall the small clip pin in the retainer. Pads cannot come off if done right.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

That's good to know. I'm currently thinking about rebuilding the rear caliper and maybe replacing the brake line while I'm at it. Know a good place to get the parts?

Originally Posted by smokier

BC, did you swap the rear pads back to the OEM? Did that address the smell issue?
OEM Pads and plugs, great products...

Have not got the chance to get under the bike yet. I will swap out the pads for the OEMs while I wait for parts, but probably wont be able to get to it for a couple days.


Current list:
Sticky calipers
Wheel alignment (checked)
Wheel Rub (checked)
Brake pad type
Rotor Warped (checked)
Caliper "free float" (checked)
Brake Fluid flush
Brake lines