cam chain tensioner extentions

[skiman]

Well got bored today and went out to the shop to install the extenders. It took all of 10 mins to remove them punch the old ones out clean them and sleeve seal the new ones on now just waiting an hour for cure and will reinstall them. Glad I did them,the front one had one click left and the rear had 3 so it was time the bike has 21000 on it.
Glad that is over not that it is a hard job I'd give it a 3 on the funmeter

ok she is all buttoned up and purring like a kitten off for a ride

[Cajunrider]

You need to set up shop and do this as a sideline job for KawaNOW. It took me 10 minutes to get my tools out. ::)

[jestephens]

I agree, I did mine at 47K miles and it sure was ready!

When I reassembled everything, the plunger immediately went clicked in once or twice.
I hadn't experienced any trouble, but boy does it sound better now! ;)

[jd01]

10 mins.? Wow!! You must not have your crossover tube still in place :). That crossover tube can make that front one a little challenging, but did remove my tube since I was doing an air mod at the same time. Glad you got it done. It does make the engine quieten down a bit . Did mine at about 42K.

[skiman]

I just took a 40 mile putt didn't notice any difference in noise but mine still had some life left in them.
I do get what sound like a lifter tick from time to time I might run some seafoam for a few miles and do an oil change, This is the first bike I've had that the engine makes random noises but it always runs great

[macmac]

Can I buy 20 minutes for a nickel?

yeah he has a taper cone air filter, thars no air cross over on that ride. But he didn't get in any 10 minutes on any clock either. 20 maybe. No studyin', just knowin whats what.

[skiman]

yup nothing in the way pop the caps four socket screws and off to the bench 40 years of wrenching on motorized vehicles and jet aircraft helps I'm sure ,,,lol 10 mins was just to take them off and glue the extenders on not reinstalling them

[AlabamaNomadRider]

Now you tell us the truth about the time. Glad you got the job performed.

[1badbagger]

Glad this is a fairly simple job. I think I'm going to tackle it this winter after I get moved into my new house.

[Cajunrider]

It is fairly simple if you follow the directions to a T. If not, the job can turn into a nightmare.

[macmac]

Skiman, What method did you use to get the oem collars off? I used a 10 ton press, but can see that was over kill. Next time it will be a vise and wood blocks, a brass drift and drift the rod out of the collars.

I didn't like the hack saw bit I heard of and for sure no the wizz wheel deal I had heard of, for the abrasive dusts.

I doubt the press fit is above 100 lbs anyway, certainly not a ton.

The new extenders were over size, and while I didn't check to see which, the exteder or the rod, one of each atleast is out of round.

With locktite primer and stud mt, I was able to screw the extend on blind threads if you will. About 1/2 turn locked the extender on the shaft, and since it was my first set, that same 1/2 turn the other would allow me to pull the extenders off too.

The hardest part for me was understanding how these work, that the side lock bolt is only used to set the tapered bearing cup holder and the bearing back in the unit housing.

And one more question. The rear jug chain guide rail seems to be hinged on the bottom and falls away. With a finger in the hole I could push the rail into the chain, and feel it click like a bell crank clip going on a ball connector, but each time I let go the rail would fall away.

This was just on the rear jug, due to the angle of leaning back anyway. The ft jug leans forward enough so the rail leans on the chain as it is.

With the top caps off, and the housing installed, once the lock bolt was released I pressed slightly on the extender rods back end and it moved the rod in more. I pressed very gently stopping when it stopped to take up the weight of the rail only. After that I allowed the springs to do what they do.

I was surprised oil psi didn't assist.

I am asking detailed questions to get your opinion.

I agree it isn't hard to do, but the detail and order must be right on 100%.

[skiman]

Mac
I just used a small vise meaning the collar sat on top and the jaws were small enough for the rod to clear the jaws then a few taps on the rod with 1/4'' steel drift punch and they came right off.
I cleaned them with MEK and glued the new ones on with loktite sleeve retainer mine were loose too but if I turned them at point they would bind so I kept them there and let it dry an hour.

The guides are hinged so the rear would fall back but when you put the adjuster back in it will move back in place. one other thing that can happen is if the engine had stopped in a place where the cam would rotate back when the adjuster was removed but don't panic when you reinstall it the 2 cap screws will push it back it place just tighten them evenly and they will press the chain and rotate the cam back. hope that makes sense.

As far as the bearing just put the big spring and bearing on the rod press all the way down with a small screwdriver and tight the small bolt finger tight so that the nub on the bolt is on top of the bearing not against it, once the adjuster is installed put the cup back in with the open end facing the engine install the small spring and put the cap on you might hear a few small click of the rod pushing in while you put the cap on. now turn the radio off for a sec and loosen the bolts that are holding the bearing and you'll hear a pretty good snap as the pop out tighten the small bolt back down and your done.

The MOST critical part is making damn sure the new extension is glued/bonded good to the rod
because as it is being installed if it slides off the rod your tearing the motor down to retrieve it.
The next is just making sure the bearing is on the rod correctly with the side bolt over the top of the bearing holding it in not against the side.

Wish I was good with video I would do a short how too.

[Scoot]

Did mine yesterday, Not as hard as I thought it would be. Took about a hour and half start to finish. 46,500 miles should have done this sooner, lots quieter now.

Next job will be changing shock oil out to a heavier one.

Has anyone done the Progressive Fork Spring Install on their bike?