1700 hesitation?

[otter]

Picked up the Voyager yesterday with .6 of a km on the clock. Actually got to watch them start her up for the first time (other than the dyno run at the factory).

Went out for a good ride and babied her and found something weird:

Between 2200 - 2800 rpm she does not like being babied when accelerating. There's what feels like a mild hesitation in this range. If I'm a bit more aggressive with the throttle, then no hesitation at all.

Anyone have this with theirs?

[Tynker]

Dealer quote " they all do that".. BS.

[CBO Vaquero]

It will come around and get better with more miles. I'm over 2100 now and it still gets smoother and stronger every time I ride it.

[otter]

Originally Posted by CBO Vaquero

It will come around and get better with more miles. I'm over 2100 now and it still gets smoother and stronger every time I ride it.

good to hear!

[Ken Vega]

It will smoothe out with miles like he said. The motor needs to break in a bit. My big three Mods and RacnRays throttle mod eliminated all hesitation with the exception when the bike gets really hot in stop and go, the ECU pulls timing and the bike feels a little sluggish till it cools below tne 3rd hash mark, then back to raw power. I just rolled 5100 miles on the ODO.

[UNCLE WILLIE]

my 010 nomad had some issues u describe - I did not find any intake leak so added the dobeck processor to correct the lean fuel mix. and problem solved. warning the settings recommended for the tfi were only for 1500 & 1600 & they did not work on my 1700. it needs to be adjusted by ear esp. for #1 pot which is for above idle through cruze rpm --follow directions to get highest rpm then back off a little to get best lean running--like we used to adjust idle mix on carbs only we are working with higher rpm--get it to rich it will stumble-use more gas & not make as much power
the tfi is a simple inexpensive way to make it better when done right
dyno run will show if u got it right

forgot to mention-the throttle mod. u read about here helps too - diy or pay someone -a good investment

[Duc796canada]

Mine just starts farting and snorting when the temp gets up past half. It is definitely annoying, everytime you close the throttle even a touch and try to get back on, it backfires when hot!!

[otter]

I'm starting to like the farting and snorting. Reminds me of.... me.

[HwyRider]

[otter]

Originally Posted by Ken Vega

It will smoothe out with miles like he said. The motor needs to break in a bit. My big three Mods and RacnRays throttle mod eliminated all hesitation with the exception when the bike gets really hot in stop and go, the ECU pulls timing and the bike feels a little sluggish till it cools below tne 3rd hash mark, then back to raw power. I just rolled 5100 miles on the ODO.

Thanks for this. This is exactly what my bike is doing. Low speed stop and go... temp goes up... hesitation on part throttle. Not there when temp isn't high.

[CBO Vaquero]

Originally Posted by otter

Thanks for this. This is exactly what my bike is doing. Low speed stop and go... temp goes up... hesitation on part throttle. Not there when temp isn't high.

Needs to be a way we can turn on the cooling fan sooner. My fan don't come on till it's cooking then it blows all that hot air on me! I would like to run the fan constant in town traffic.

[UNCLE WILLIE]

cbo----the manuel looks like u need to run battery voltage through a toggle switch to the blue wire at the fan harness connector---that will bypass the fan relay and send volt. to the fan motor ---u control it with the toggle switch----the motor is grounded to the frame directly---the ground wire is black/with white tracer in my 010 nomad book
the print is so small I cannot read the tracer color on the volt. wire even with magnifying glass---if u can find wiring on internet look on page 16-67 in kaw manuel and see what u think

[RACNRAY]

Back in April 2011 when I got my Vaq I noticed in the first 1000 miles the loss of power when the temp gauge got past the halfway point. Originally I thought heat saturation affecting engine performance but that just didn't make sense on a modern FI engine. Any air cooled or in our case partially air cooled engine there will be slight power losses in stop n go traffic, but not in the magnitude I/we feel/felt.

I also noticed in that first 1000 mls how much throttle rotation was needed to get this 800+ pnd sled goin, werkin on skoots (at that time) professionally for over 35 years had me wonderin what and why Kawi had set up the RBW system this way. Out on the open road with the cruise control on the skoot was a dream, get it in town and both it an I were not happy!

June 2011 was the first dyno session proved and invaluable learning experience in many ways. My dyno is a most important tool and it proved it's worth as it always does.

Two performance aspects of these 1700's were my priority in that first session.

First, Determining what the throttle response delay was and why and what I could do about it. Non standard dyno runs were performed and what followed was my proto-type throttle mod. Mna o man it worked and when I posted about this improvement I was , well lets say, nagged by many for this mod. I started supplying this mod to 1700 owners in September 2011 and have sold over 500 or so. It has brought the throttle response to the level that Kawi should have done from the get go.

The other aspect of performance loss that I had noticed in those first 1000 mls was also something that appeared in that first session. On every skoot I dyno there is a temperature window that the runs can be performed in where the power will be consistent. Too low of a temp and the power will be low, too high and power loss can be expected. Using my laser temp gun the original dyno runs were performed at a temp we use on most skoots with digital temp gauges. The power was low and the graph line very erratic. Just didn't look right. At some point in this dyno session I performed a run with the temp gauge at the middle mark. WALAA!!! Instant power gain, and allowing the temp gauge to climb back up to the same area as the first few runs and re-running the skoot brought the power right back down..

At this point I knew the ECU was programmed to retard the ignition timing at those elevated temps to prevent pinging. BUT...the temps I was measuring at the radiator with the temp gun indicated the engine was not really that hot. Knowing the Japs as I do Kawi erred on the side of caution in programming this ignition retard to aid in preventing pinging.

Anyways , here is a link to when I did my fan switch...

http://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=66809

I was in some purty bad stop n go traffic Monday and man o man it finally said..."it's a bit hot out today". I could feel the heat coming off the pavement. BUT... I had my fan switch on and the needle never got more than maybe one millimeter past the halfway mark, and as soon as I got rolling for a decent distance it came down to below the halfway mark. Yea the hot air flow can be felt at a stop but I am used to it and I never feel that power loss from the ignition retard.

In my opinion, and pun intended, it was a "retarded" thing for Kawi to do, along with the throttle response delay.

RACNRAY

[Duc796canada]

Good write up Ray on tha fan mod.