Can I use Seafoam every fill up?

[clayton]

I know we have had several conversations about Seafoam but would it be a waste of time adding some every tank full?
The reason I ask is for me it seems to help Pinging ALOT.
If I do not add it frequently the pinging increases.
I know my next step will be to get a Fuel Processor once my budget gets better.
Thanks

[phred]

I don't think it would hurt anything. Another option that may help with pinging in adding octane booster when you fill up.

[ringadingh]

I doubt it hurts anything, but the stuff gets a little expensive to be using daily. My bike doesn't ping but it does seem to run better with Seafoam in the tank. I mainly use it about 3-4 times a season to keep things clean.

[Kawhead]

That was my first thought to Ring, that stiff is 'spensive. I buy Sea Foam by the gallon and it's over $60 when last year it was close to $50. I can understand how using it often would prevent pinging, but I'd try an ounce to a tank and see how that dose.

Maybe you're doing it now, but I would pinch and save and get the fuel processor asap and open up the air intake.

[clayton]

Kaw
Yea thats my game plan and I am keeping an eye on the forums in the event someone wants to part with one at a great price.
Thanks Guys

[macmac]

Normally I woud say no, but if it stops ping go for it. Assuming you run the highest octane possible and still have ping, there is a good bet the hi test is creating gobs of carbon build up, and that is a part of the problem and seafoam gets that part cleaned up.

If I were you I would put off something else to buy and get a Cobra or TFI The under 200 bucks is a lot less than valves and pistions. Ping is eatting up metal, burning metal away. It is hard on main bearings and rod bearings too. Ping is trying to run the engine backwards!

[ringadingh]

We pay anywhere from $12.00 - $15.00 a can here for Seafoam. I never seen it sold by the gallon. At that price I may buy a jug if I see it somewhere next week.

[fish]

beer is cheaper I bought colder plugs but didn't put them in yet

[superduty]

Originally Posted by fish

beer is cheaper I bought colder plugs but didn't put them in yet

What does "Colder" plugs mean exactly? When I got a set of new plugs for my bike earlier this summer, they said they had the originals or a colder set. I had no idea what that meant, so I picked the originals.

Thanks.

[ringadingh]

Colder plugs will not burn the carbon deposits off the insulator as well as a hotter plug, and when too cold it will fowl the plug. With our Nomads the original plug is fine and so is a heat range colder plug. Ive ran colder Iridium plugs for three years now with no plug fowling at all. My plugs burn as well as the originals.
If your plug is black or dark brown its usually running too rich, or is too cold as well. If they are a light tan colour they are burning clean.

[Kawhead]

Originally Posted by Ringadingh

We pay anywhere from $12.00 - $15.00 a can here for Seafoam. I never seen it sold by the gallon. At that price I may buy a jug if I see it somewhere next week.

I get it at Auto Zone or O'Reillys

[usranger74]

Got it a Wally World yeserday for just under $8.00/can.

[macmac]

Colder plug heat sink or dump heat faster than spec of a heat range hotter. They don't spark colder. As Ring said this assists cleaning itself. It isn't going to change the combustion burn and some how by magic make the burn cooler.

If the plugs were showing sign of over heating and that would be burnt scale of ceramic and even bubbled and melted ceramic, then you would want cooler plugs.

If the rings and or valve guide were well worn and oil was gooking and fouling the plugs then you want hotter plugs.

Colder plugs are not really going to stop ping, which is what a BS dealer or fool tech will tell you. Just because there are dealers and guys work in them some even have tools don't mean they know 1 damnned thing.

Many of them count on you don't know 1 damnned thing to, so they can say what ever they want and you don't know better.

I went to my loocal dealer to discuss why there is no preload in the swing arm and the service manager made up parts in his head. He wasn't worth talking to in the first place, and he was arrogant, which all added up makes him a fool.

I have done the swing arm service 5 times now. I know more about that job, than anyone in that dealership, which is a sin. I am the first one to ever norder swing arm seal EVER!

That dealer has been around longer than Vulcan so there should have been atleast 100 sets of seals on the computer and I WAS READING that section on the bloody computer.

I KNOW I bought the first seals ever from them. Which means they have never done a swing armservice, but i bet they have charged out for it.

AND IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHICH IS FINE, JUST BE SURE TO GET YOUR OLD PARTS BACK.

That will cut down on cheating. Look at th parts and see if they appear to be what you expect. Maybe ask to see the new ones, to be sure your old parts are really yours.

[macmac]

CLAYTON, Maybe you could try less expensive octane booster, till you get a real bike under yer butt. Might work as well as Seafoam cheaper.

[cactusjack]

Put it on your cornflakes, if you like. At $9 a can, it will get expensive to do that. Is the fuel that bad where you're at?