Off / On Throttle stumble

[Framer]

Well my bike didn’t have a little stumble it was so bad if I couldn’t find a solution I was going to sell it and by a gold wing.
After I got back from Custer I started reading anything I could find on the internet. I really wasn’t very optimistic that I would find anything after all I’d already been looking for over a year. Well I found another thread talking about this problem and there was the usual bs. I found one guy talking about something I hadn’t tried yet although what he was talking about I didn’t think would work.
What he did to solve his problem was adjust the throttle according to race’n ray’s throttle adjustment. He didn’t have the adjustment posted so I did what everybody does and googled it. I figured I had a snowballs chance in hell that this would work but it was either this or sell it.
So I followed the adjustment and took it for a ride. I couldn’t believe how smooth it was and that I had total control of the throttle. So when I got back home I called Budman. When we were in Custer his was so bad he talked about leaving his bike there and finding another way home
So I gave him a called and told him what I did and the results. I’m sure he thought I was full of it but at this point he, like myself was ready to try anything. So he adjusted his and took it for a ride. When he called me he couldn’t believe the difference. It was just like mine smooth and control.
This may not be everybody’s problem and I’m sure some will think there’s no way this will work but it fixed mine and Dave’s and I hope it might help someone else.

[Peg]

Once upon a time I might have been able to read that, Dave. Can you post a link maybe?

[JD Hog]

This is from another forum with Ray's instructions posted there.
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/...ml#post1359273

#8 Has to do with the adjustment of the cable.

Here are the same instructions sent out with my throttle mod.

BTW...this method of adjusting the throttle cables can be used on ANY skoot with dual throttle cables.

Here ya go...

This is in response to requests for this info. I will also include instructions on proper throttle cable adjustment which neither the factory or the dealer knows how to perform!!

#1...park the bike with it in gear to minimize any oopsies from the skoot rolling off the sidestand.

#2...lay a towel over the gas tank to minimize damage to it.

#3...locate the rubber dust covers on both throttle cable adjusters and slide them forward away from the adjusters.

#4...using a 8 and a 10 mm wrench, loosen the two 10mm locknuts(one for each cable) and thread it towards the elbow of the cable. Thread the adjuster all the way to the locknut. This will create alot of slack in the cables and you will have a lot of play in the throttle. This will help in removing the cables from the throttle tube itself.

#5...remove the two phillips screws from the top of the throttle housing and remove the top plate also. Locate and remove the phillips screw from the bottom front of the housing, this screw head faces forward.

#6...pull apart the housing halves and you will see the two cables ends and how they are attached to the throttle tube assembly.The barrel ends of the cables reside in round receptacles, those have a slot in them which will allow the cable end to be removed. using a pair of needle nose pliers carefully grab one of the cables, lift up on the cable and slide it to where it is even with the slot in the throttle tube, and then slide the cable and barrel end out, repeat this for the other cable end. NOTE...be careful, as soon as the cable is free from the throttle tube it and the housing it is connected to will fall away, make sure it does not.

#7...installation is the reversal with the following...a little bit of grease or lube in the cable attachment receptacles on the throttle tube and some CRC/WD-40 sprayed on the handlebar and into the throttle tube will make operation smoother. I also use never-sieze on the threads of the housing screws to minimize the potential of these seizing. NOTE...the front half of the housing has a pin protruding from the housing, this pin fits into a hole drilled into the handlebar. MAKE SURE these line up or the housings will not line up properly.

#8...ADJUSTMENT...with everything back together make sure that the throttle grip turns freely, it will have some free play in it. At this point if you roll the throttle forward you will feel it stop, it will be a positive stop. The tube is bottoming out in the housing, and the first adjustment is to eliminate this.
Using the adjuster on the rear cable, turn out the adjuster as you "feel" the play in the throttle grip, as you turn out the adjuster you will feel less and less play in the grip. Continue turning out this adjuster until you have about 3/16" rotational play in the grip. At this point if you roll the grip forward you should no longer feel a positive stop, but will feel tension, you are pulling on the closing cable and that is what we want. Using the 8 & 10 mm wrenches thread the lock nut up to the adjuster and lock the two together. With the handlebars in the straight ahead position thread the adjuster out on the front cable and further reduce the play in the grip. The object here is to have as little play in the grip as possible without binding the cables which will cause the throttle to stick. VERY IMPORTANT HERE...TURN THE HANDLEBARS FULL LOCK LEFT, CHECK FOR PLAY, TURN THE BARS FULL LOCK RIGHT AND CHECK FOR PLAY. The handlebars at full lock in one direction the play will either stay the same or have more play than in the straight ahead position, at opposite full lock play may get LESS, and this is where you must be extremely careful to have play so the grip will close on it's own. Once the adjustment has been done lock the adjuster. I recommend starting the engine, allowing it to come to temp and "blipping" the throttle at all handlebar positions to ensure the rpm drops properly with no "hanging" up. Slide the dust covers back on.

I will be glad to walk thru this by phone so don't hesitate to call. THANX RACNRAY
954-455-9665 tue-fri 9-6:30, sat 9-3. Cell after hours for technical help-954-226-6201

[vulcanscott]

bike did not have the throttle mod . I called Dave and he sent me those instructions I printed them off and will adjust this weekend

[pete]

Nice:)
Step 8 I have done for last two adjustments.
Where it falls down for me is when checking throttle snap back at each side full lock. Full lock to the right is the problem child, so after backing off the adjuster to where it snaps back clean I'm back to square 1 with jerkiness...although better than when I first got the Vaq.
Next time I'll refine the "if you roll the grip forward you should no longer feel a positive stop, but will feel tension" bit.
Just a thought... is the return cable a tad too long maybe?
Great writeup, Cheers Pete.

[mbarr10]

Originally Posted by vulcanscott

bike did not have the throttle mod . I called Dave and he sent me those instructions I printed them off and will adjust this weekend

Well …..we are getting it narrowed down anyway. Got to start somewhere. I hope you find the results you are looking for.

Thanks for the Post JD Hog. I never did any adjustment on your throttle mod, just popped it in and still have it there after 10,000 miles. Even after the Flash. I saved it in my files, thanks

Full lock to the right is the problem child, so after backing off the adjuster to where it snaps back clean I'm back to square 1 with jerkiness...although better than when I first got the Vaq.

Any chance your cables have been re routed? for some reason or another?

[Framer]

Originally Posted by pete

Nice:)
Step 8 I have done for last two adjustments.
Where it falls down for me is when checking throttle snap back at each side full lock. Full lock to the right is the problem child, so after backing off the adjuster to where it snaps back clean I'm back to square 1 with jerkiness...although better than when I first got the Vaq.
Next time I'll refine the "if you roll the grip forward you should no longer feel a positive stop, but will feel tension" bit.
Just a thought... is the return cable a tad too long maybe?
Great writeup, Cheers Pete.

I just had mine role back slowly didn’t have it snap back.

Let me rephrase this it roles back slowly at left lock.

[vulcanscott]

1st stab at new adjustment shows some improvement . going to do some fine tuning but I can tell it changed and feel the throttle rolling down instead of just falling off . Thank You to All !!! V Scott

[pete]

mbarr10.
Cables all in stock position and even have them out of the cross wire holder that keeps them neatly together in front of the neck. Less sharp of a bend.

Framer.
Thanks for clarification.

Last night I took my intake cover off to observe cable tension at the throttle pully(again) and adjusted accordingly. If this rain clears up enough I might be able to check it out.
I always blow air through the cables before applying a light machine oil and then let air push it through. However I reckon I'll give the graphite a go next time.
Guess there's something to be said about flybywire throttle systems these days...no cable to drag in the housing...
Cheers, Pete.

[lomax]

Well I was kinda skeptical that a simple adjustment to the cables would make much difference to the slow speed driveability of my bike. It finally quit raining today and got a chance to take her out for a spin, and I was pleasantly surprised at the result. Much improved throttle control at slow speeds. I may experiment with the cable settings a bit more yet, but for now I'm happy with the result. Is it perfect? No, but definetely a step in the right direction.


Thanks to Framer and Budman for helping me out with this idea earlier this week!!