NomaGlide build

[Monkeyman]

I'll wrap it in lots of duct tape. That way it won't get wet.

[ponch]

Originally Posted by Monkeyman

I'll wrap it in lots of duct tape. That way it won't get wet.

And don't forget the JB Weld.

[Loafer]

Originally Posted by cactusjack

I don't think that corrugated paper is strong enough to hold a fairing solidly, and if it ever gets wet....

You are Bad!

[cactusjack]

Originally Posted by Monkeyman

I'll wrap it in lots of duct tape. That way it won't get wet.

There ya go! That's the way to do it!

[markclark57]

Looking good so far Chris. Did you decide on your material? (not the cardboard)

[cnc]

Have you thought of making use of the stud that mounts the tank? Just looking at your pics I'm thinking another way to do it. Cut and bend your bracket so you have the arms going forward as you have it, but a saddle going over the frame where the tank stud is. You would then have a 3 point mounting from 2 different planes, the stud, and the 2 trim screw locations. No frame drilling. Forward instead of the box bend joining the arms, bend each arm the other way creating 2 flanges to bolt the fairing to. Forward of the neck if you need to create lateral stiffness, a uchannel piece a couple of inches long could be bolted between the arms.

[Monkeyman]

Sorry, but I'm not following you cnc.

[ponch]

Saw this doing a search:



Road glide faring mount

[Monkeyman]

Thanks. Unfortunately, those won't work. The curved bar is an invisible lower mount. The HD crash bars bolt to a central mount in the middle of the down tubes. That's what the curved part bolts to. We don't have that as the radiator is in the way. The main bracket bolts to 2 holes drilled through the frame directly behind the steering head. Again, we don't have that and don't have the space (height wise) to drill those 2 holes. If I could, I'd drill those holes as I believe holes above each other would be strongest as the main bracket is holding up 30+ pounds of fairing. Due to the size of the Nomad top frame tube, I'll have to have the two holes behind each other. Not as strong for this imho but it'll have to do. From what I see, the main bracket is designed to hold the fairing in place where the lower brackets are designed only to stablize the fairing.

Anyway, thanks for looking out but I only wish the mounting was that easy.

[cnc]

Originally Posted by Monkeyman

Sorry, but I'm not following you cnc.

I was afraid of that. If I get some free time I'll PM you a drawing, anyway just a thought.

[ponch]

Originally Posted by Monkeyman

Thanks. Unfortunately, those won't work. The curved bar is an invisible lower mount. The HD crash bars bolt to a central mount in the middle of the down tubes. That's what the curved part bolts to. We don't have that as the radiator is in the way. The main bracket bolts to 2 holes drilled through the frame directly behind the steering head. Again, we don't have that and don't have the space (height wise) to drill those 2 holes. If I could, I'd drill those holes as I believe holes above each other would be strongest as the main bracket is holding up 30+ pounds of fairing. Due to the size of the Nomad top frame tube, I'll have to have the two holes behind each other. Not as strong for this imho but it'll have to do. From what I see, the main bracket is designed to hold the fairing in place where the lower brackets are designed only to stablize the fairing.

Anyway, thanks for looking out but I only wish the mounting was that easy.

I was thinking they could give you some inspiration/ideas in terms of fabrication.

[ponch]

Originally Posted by Monkeyman

Thanks. Unfortunately, those won't work. The curved bar is an invisible lower mount. The HD crash bars bolt to a central mount in the middle of the down tubes. That's what the curved part bolts to. We don't have that as the radiator is in the way. The main bracket bolts to 2 holes drilled through the frame directly behind the steering head. Again, we don't have that and don't have the space (height wise) to drill those 2 holes. If I could, I'd drill those holes as I believe holes above each other would be strongest as the main bracket is holding up 30+ pounds of fairing. Due to the size of the Nomad top frame tube, I'll have to have the two holes behind each other. Not as strong for this imho but it'll have to do. From what I see, the main bracket is designed to hold the fairing in place where the lower brackets are designed only to stablize the fairing.

Anyway, thanks for looking out but I only wish the mounting was that easy.

The other thing is, if you look at the box mount, it really is an approximation of what you want to do.

[Bdog]

Originally Posted by Monkeyman

I think I figured out a main mount today. Front/sides one piece with 2 bends then a top and bottom welded on mainly for strength. I'll drill out the top hole(s) for the corner covers then I'll only have to drill one more set of holes (one on each side) for a second bolt. (I'll put a bolt all the way through each pair of holes.) What do you think?

I think you have the right idea now. I would make a glove like mount, so that the strength is in the material your using. Make a box like shape around the frame using mild steel, then a couple bolts for reinforcing, if anything, your adding strength to the frame, just my thoughts..bdog

[ponch]

I would also box what is in front of the steering head.

[wiz]

Looking like a good project!